Oz07

@joe90 Had solid plaster. Did you have chases?

You do see it often on sites bricks left out for this reason. For me it would give more reason just to use batts

Any give water a way to track across?!

7 years of gas safety refund for a start

Also I would favour batts if ever having to form a tray at dpc level. It doesn't take much dropped compo to bridge a cavity. Horses for courses.

Think I'd favour beads if I could get them at a reasonable price. Always used batts or blown in fibre up to now. Where i am is forgiving weather wise though. They have been using the beads on a job I've been on recently think they need to up the glue ratio it has been snowing whenever a hole is made.

I meant to block off top cavity @Mr Punter

Better off with cavity batts. They're firmer, less susceptible to moisture, easier to work with and would have better insulation properties for the given thickness

If its still green ask him if he could tidy up if he's still there. Wont be a problem to rake out and will be more on the ball with the other reveals

I'd be less concerned about basement walls than gf slab u value. My simpleton brain tells me there will be lower losses due to a more stable ground temp below say 600mm ground level. Sorry can't help with the details

Bloody hell have you had bco sign off yet? Have you been ok with house insurance? Like you say just blocking the filters seems easiest. Or removing the two external duct from top of unit and taping up. Mine are on a flexible silencer with rubber like push fit.

6"cav

No builder has a clue about the calculations we just know 32 is the dear stuff 34 is the stuff you can pass on a 6" cab 37 is the cheap stuff people use and just have one pack of 32 on the job for when bco walks round. I use 34

Are blown in beads a better option when it comes to moisture. Must admit I've built a fair few places with full fill will never had a problem. The stuff just does not soak up water. I've had it blown in and in batts. Used to be cheaper to get blown in than to fit loose. That's changed now. Pir is so reliant on good workmanship.

Haven't you been in years now? I would think the room vents are redundant if you block off the ducts to outside

I've never heard anyone say how easy they are complete PITA.

The back legs should slide but make sure wound right down so don't snap. Get the missus to do it how many fingers has she got? I swore I'd never fit another after this one. They're just a pain in the arse better off on show in a utility. Next week on a job - can you just sort the dishwasher out in plot so and so...

Everything is fine if done proper. One unique problem I can think of is sole plate condensation. You will have to get a risk thingy done to make sure the risk is low. Also with regards to membranes and water or condensation ingress. It could be a major structural problem with tf. Less so with masonry.

Godfather post

The exceptions in link @Dan F posted allow y junction where there is a rodding point outside so I think you would be ok with either 4 or 5

Looks better now mate.

Try it and see

I prefer blade to well clear the bottom of workpiece on a couple of battens find it gives a better cut.

You can't really cut too slow. I'm guessing your using the right blade for the job if getting nice cuts. I'd be wanting more than a kitchen per blade. 're sharpening less than a tenner so buy a good brand.

my god I could have forgiven it if the cill was tight to the flashing but why not just grind through the soldiers 3" up to give it a proper upstand?!