Oz07

Any pneumatic or gas. I think if you hire a coil one they can fire round head clouts

Some epc assessors are worse than others. Generally a good guide

Another couple of thoughts with this sorry @tonyshouse Not having a go. 1. My new vehicle is not a car it's a futuristic spaceship which levitates on air. It just uses some thin pieces of rubber to contain said air. 2. Having double cavity width than someone else isn't a reason to criticise the method of construction. If you were limited on your external dimensions then the sums don't add up. My area doesn't have particularly high property prices but I can tell you if I doubled my cavity width to 300mm, then my place would be worth approx £375 less per linear metre of external wall per floor. Done the back of fat packet maths and it's going to take a lot of heating savings to pay back.

So it's cavity construction then ?

https://find-energy-certificate.digital.communities.gov.uk/find-a-certificate/search-by-postcode Internal m2 on epc

Isn't your place cavity tony?

Found one which shows the bathroom window and a small window in another room. These don't have the jambs on yet as I went round doing all the heads first with the jig. Just do a window every few hrs 2 or 3 a day while doing other things.

I lost my phone between end of first fix and plastering so lost a load. I have some pics but non which I think show that detail luckily had some with wires/pipes I'll see if any in background. No drawings I made it up on the hoof

Cavity closers built in, blockwork pargecoated inc reveals upto closers. Windows fitted, clearance caps left unfilled at fitting. Window board fitted foamed underneath with decent 10mm ish gap. Illbruck airtight foam. 10mm ish OSB board cut into strips roughly sized from back of window frame to face of blockwork. These all stuck to blockwork/lintel obviously spanning junction of cavity closer to blockwork. Illbruck airtight foam again. Fill window gaps in internally at this point also. Screw plasterboard onto osb job done. Wetting the OSB and blockwork/lintel seemed to help. It's a pain to set up but easy if long winded after. Window board goes on first to give you a level platform. A jig built to hold the head OSB while the foam gets it. After half a day than comes out and reveals cam be stuck on and held with friction or a couple of temp pins into head and window board. Good for blind fixing in head too.

Maybe pink then for the little extra cost of one ceiling. Are you protecting the icf internally in garage got to be higher priority?

@tonyshouse I used them and got 1.19 air test. Its all about the detailing. Lots of flexible sealants, tapes, foam available. At least the bottom corners of these are welded

I didn't think water boards could refuse surface water to combined foul if site conditions did not allow for soakaways? I had permission for rainwater into foul as recently as like 5 years ago

Just checked it was that company.

I've dug through it before no problem. Only like when they do a utility connection in the road. As long as you compact in layers

Yes not sure if it was that exact company but much better than fitting afterwards. Very cheap too compared to time measuring and cutting afterwards plus sacrificial cost of timber formers

They don't my auntie is the neighbour.

I was 1.19 ap50 whatever that means but happy enough with that. Anything below 3 apparently mvhr pays for itself not sure I believe that though.

Sorry @Gav_P thought you meant the reverse. It's next to my heating manifold with 65c temp or something like that. I suspect the heat warped the rubber. I think if my new one fails he will have to put some disclaimer in the instructions about placing near heat sources.

Also @Gav_P No need to encourage price increases!

Not sure. Quite a bit of detritus in there from plumber soldering above. One day I went to bed and that whole half of the house stunk of drains. I tipped a touch of water in there regularly till replaced and it made a seal good enough to stop odour. He took it away to examine. Helpful guy really

Depends how good it is. We have a yard here can literally get super clean like 35-70mm crushed concrete. I don't think you'd be able to tarmac straight ontop probably need a 2-4" layer of smaller clean stone but you'd do that when the build is finished. I wouldn't worry too much about it clogging up to the point of non permeable. A type1 would do but not a product without fines. It's not going to be any less permable than the ground below any way.

Some decent 6f2 or clean 50mm is what you want can be left down then. Geotextile too non woven.

Is it not the wrong flashing kits been used? Different kits for different tile profiles

Does anyone here use Hotun for a trapped tundish discharge? I had one fail on me recently the owner/inventor cam round, replaced and left me with a spare. Was good service but doesn't give too much faith when 6 months old

Where will you put manifolds if you have in the same cupboard/area?