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Oz07

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Everything posted by Oz07

  1. You'd need a hanger of some kind if going onto side of ridge beam. Weight has to be supported from underside rafts without ceiling joists as ties
  2. So apart from waste water which could be dealt with alternatively what is the big problem here. All my surface water gets sent into the combined sewer because of clay ground. Previously it was allowed to drain into the ground. Which is the worse option and why is this a part of the planning process- as opposed to building control
  3. If accurate timber frame I'd board and skim beforehand. Especially between 2 walls and straight flight.
  4. Can never seem to stop this cracking with drylining. I find moulding makes it worse by putting cracking into 2 edges. I think next time if drylining I would screw 12mm ply to wall but wider than string and along same line. Then screw string to this but packed off with 12mm offcuts and more if nessecary. Then drop board behind string when drylining and screw through above the string into ply\osb. I think the inevitable crack would be much smaller this way as timber will shrink across 9" much more than it would over 32mm
  5. By building the house they're not increasing the rainfall. If the ground was impermeable before then surely building the house would not make things any worse. It may in fact make things better by being able to direct runoff or engineer the ground to have a storage capacity? Tell your mate to stop being a nosy nimby.
  6. Sorry hadn't read thru thread. Mix strength question still applies re blockwork/brickwork
  7. Sounds good. Do you find you ever have too much and gets wasted or not enough and blokes waiting round for delivery? I understand it keeps for a day or so? quantites wise are you just converting dry weights or I suppose you get a feel for how far it goes? What do you do about mix strength? Different for facing bricks and lightweight blocks? Or do they just do a one size fits all job?
  8. Your probably right with the direction you're going. Spec and drawings would probably be enough for quotes. Leave the rest till your weighing up the contractors
  9. What kind of money are we talking here? Anything below 50k I fear you may be a bit o.t.t and as you suspect scare off good contractors. Others may disagree If you do gobthis route outs you may be better off with a bigger firm. You will pay for the privilege but they will be well versed with the documentation side.
  10. Feasibility for what exactly?
  11. Should probably leave a tap slightly open for when it thaws
  12. What about incentives. Let me get you on octopus Jeremy we both get 50 quid!
  13. Site looks dry. Well drained soil?
  14. How do you even get near the driver without working on the site? A farm might be a good choice too farmers always looking for a few extra quid usually have a machine
  15. https://www.jcbinsurance.com/short-term-hired-in-plant
  16. Jcb do short term cover for hired in plant. Seem to remember taking a policy out with them a few years ago
  17. It's still a good idea regardless of how rare the event is. Especially in extension/new build where it can be incorporated easier. Perhaps more popular in oz because majority of homes bungalows? infact now I think about it I'm sure one I have seen in oz just had a rodent proof like flood valve coming out of the brickwork externally. Would be a lot easier to do this way. Not good for air tightness though?
  18. Just ordered the Makita quick release one tonight. The "51" model. I resisted getting one for so long but on a job where it would come in handy. Always seen it as a "bodging" tool before now. I can't believe how many tools we need nowadays just to keep pace. Makes me sick. Bet our forefathers look down on us with disgust!
  19. A self build mortgage in arrears may be what you need. You would need to have a strong cash position at present thought as I'd imagine your ground to only be worth around your current mortgage amount 250k ish. Possibly need to demonstrate you have enough funds to demo and get out of the ground before stage payments advanced
  20. Work it out 20*5*.3 volume say. Put that into online call to get stone volume and Muckaway if not keeping on site. Then add 20m of geo membrane and a day for a man and decent machine. If that is how basic the access will be
  21. Look at the house 2 doors down. He's got 5 acres out the back!
  22. How high is the external ground above your ffl?
  23. Me and a cousin built some raised beds for our grandad. I'd never heard of dpm lining till we did it for him. I can't see it being that effective. Surely the timber is still damp regardless?! The bugs is a good point but in reality how long are we expecting these structures to last and how many extra days/weeks/months/years will a bit of dpm make?! The treatment angle is another good point. Just begrudgingly do it like I did and atleast you can say I told you so in 20 years!
  24. Mason mitre jigs have stops on the waste side. Obviously it can be done by jigging up right but makes it even more pita. I allow a cutter per kitchen job done
  25. They will come out with crap like this but when you ask them the square footage have no clue. Chancers mostly.
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