Bonner

They may be asking for more drawings to justify exceeding the target decision time. Just give them the drawing requested, a traffic survey is unlikely to be taken into consideration.

Not sure which regulation you are looking at but most builders would just drill the joists where needed. You should avoid the middle third of the span where bending stress is highest and always drill mid-depth (neutral axis). What size joists and pipes?

Have you got an alternative quotation? That would help you to negotiate payment terms! I often find first quotes are heavily weighted in the supplier’s favour as they need to manage their cash flow and risk. I would want the pre-manufacturing deposit as small as possible and protected by credit card. The 40% on completion of manufacturing and issue of a ‘vesting’’ certificate of title to the goods. This will help take possession in case the supplier goes into administration. Finally, maximum possible retention until after delivery and erection.

+2 for the steels, we have one in our 280sq.m 5 bed house. Never seen so many sliding doors, is that something you really want or architect’s idea? The one in the snug slides into a curved wall?! Related to bathroom comments, not liking the soil pipes in the dining room, acoustic or not! Whats going on between the dining room and snug, is there a hidden door behind a bookcase?

Okay, the ‘gap’ is finger width but is that a normal joint where the mortar has fallen out? Or is that joint significantly wider than other parts of the DPC course? Again it is very difficult to assess from a photo, wait for the SE to confirm. In the meantime don’t worry too much but think about what course of action to take in case he says it’s structural (almost anything can be fixed, at a price).

Difficult to see but it might only be pointing issue. If the DPC has been laid a bit proud, it splits the joint. The rest of the pointing looks weak so it could be related. Are there any actual gaps you can see, or cracks through bricks?

Engineered wood is better for stability. Solid oak can twist so much that the door won’t close properly. Drafts/air leakage is more of an issue than U-value.

Are you thinking oak? I would have thought 6” softwood would be a bit too flexi. I would go for 8” posts in any case just because they would look more substantial.

You could save on the excavation but it would need separating out from the cable lay and done according to their specification/instructions. Worth a conversation with their engineer (not the estimating team!)

Yes the fees are appropriate and reasonable. Doesn’t matter that the land is owned by the family, the DNO needs to ensure the legal rights are established. Do they mention contestable works? You can get an alternative quote for trenching etc. (or do it yourself).

Yes, that bit should go That’s crossing the fine line I mentioned … by a country mile 😬

That is a matter of taste but I think it adds character to the room, although there is a fine line between characterful and just naff, the devil is in the detail. As suggested, get rid of the plinth to the side then you will find out what the vent is for.

In conclusion, electronic warfare test and iron pipe thread. If these don’t make sense, it would help to know the specific subject of the drawing and maybe a snip of the relevant part.

The US also have list specifically for drawings and standards https://www.expresscorp.com/uploads/specifications/33/MIL-STD-12D.pdf

Could do with a list for the building industry like the MoD have. Although of limited use when the same acronym is used for 10 or more different things ... https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/227048/acronyms_and_abbreviations_dec08.pdf

Are you intending to use the loft space as a room or just insulating it to keep the tank from freezing? If the latter, you need to rethink … If you need to insulate between the rafters, you need a minimum of 25mm air space so 75mm PIR might work depending how much the felt sags. No battens needed, just fit the PIR flush with the bottom of the rafter, then you know there is an air gap above. Make sure you fit the PIR snuggly using expanding tape or foam. Assuming the felt is lapped, there should be adequate ventilation, no need for all those vents (IMHO!!)

Fully agree, it piece of equipment you want to be stable and robust. I bought a used MiTower as I wasn’t happy working on a DIY tower. Should get the money back when I sell.

Look for tell tale signs, does it look like an old crack or more recent? Has the ceiling been decorated recently, or is it old wallpaper/paint? Any signs of filler being used or recent decoration in that area specifically? I would be more concerned if there have been attempts to cover something. Can you see any cracks in the outside walls?

Just done mine last week, put it in the insulation. Also put a waste pipe in case any change of plan, like a sink is suddenly needed! @LA3222, gave me the idea 😃

Try to gently pry off the beading with a wide flat tool like a scraper. It is unlikely to be glued but will be pinned and also stuck with glazing putty and years of paint. ... hang on ... you will need a different size bead for the DG unit so don’t waste your time

Thanks @PeterW just what I was looking for! It didn’t come up in my search for ‘recirculating’ DHW 🙄

Looks interesting. What do the manufacturers instructions say about recirculating systems?

Further research indicates something to do with the standard not covering this application. No practical reason it can’t be used but I am not going against manufacturers recommendations (they are the same)

Plumber point this out to me, said he will need to run hot water in copper. Doesn’t make sense to me, anyone know why?

No rules, it depends on the specific location and fitting in with the ‘street scene’ as well as any overlooking issues.