Bonner

I agree with all the other posts, beware and be fair!

Building regs have two measures, one for ‘wet’ rooms and one for whole house. Do the sums and see what comes out. As a guide, my place is 280m2 and I have installed a 350m3/hr unit but not tested or signed of yet!

Link just takes me to general search page

I have got BT2 fixed vertically, I think BT1 is for horizontal cladding.

That is a fine detail not on our drawings, something the joiner has to work out in situ. Haven’t got a picture but basically he made a timber frame (Larch in our case) top and sides with the bottom being the cill.

What type of windows have you got? You could draft proof the original door relatively easily. Personally I would want to retain at least a bit of the original character of the house.

Not sure if radiators will be really needed but don’t want to risk it. Also thinking of future resale. Installer has specified oversized double radiators but I won’t be going that far, normal singles and large towel radiators for bathrooms.

Bit late this reply ... just wondering how you got on with tweaking flow temperatures? I am having a Grant 13kW installed under the BUS. Installer will set flow temperature to 45C for the upstairs radiators, to comply with MCS. Since radiators are unlikely to be needed much if at all, I intend to reduce flow temperature to optimise COP.

I would still talk through these issues with the neighbours first, they may have been misled by architect/planning consultants. Nevertheless it does seem unlikely they are going to change the plans at this late stage. I am not aware of any templates, I would just look at examples in the local planning applications. Maybe focus on conservation areas where planning consultants are more likely to be involved. My in laws live in (Royal) Hillsborough, worth looking at some of the planning applications which seem to be approved despite widespread objections.

Well done her! However beware of future claims of ‘my workshop’ 😆

Looks like a sheet metal nibbler, or is it designed specifically for slate?

I agree, lots of what if’s ... all windows are lockable, is that allowed for fire escape?

I have the same problem, first floor windows at 600mm from floor level ... but several are fire escape windows. Can I get an opening restrictor which also allows escape in an emergency (acceptable to BC)?

Jigsaw with these blades. Bit bendy but work surprisingly well. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Festool-Jigsaw-Blade-155-204345/dp/B07M6PKLCS/ref=asc_df_B07M6PKLCS/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=412285882712&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7100560651268759544&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006876&hvtargid=pla-872783453695&psc=1&th=1&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=85363719810&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=412285882712&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7100560651268759544&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006876&hvtargid=pla-872783453695

In theory, yes each radiator should be on it’s own branch. In practice radiator valves are used to throttle the flow in balancing the system so you might get away with just having these radiator valves opened more. Depends on the size of radiator, length of piping, pump pressure etc, etc. As you can tell there is no easy answer without going through a full system design. Also depends on your appetite for working on the heating system mid winter if it doesn’t work!

Hello and welcome. Feel free to share what you are building, helps to get the best advice

All edges, reduces cold bridging and allows the screed to expand.

I did something similar but I used 120mm boards which were cheaper than 100+20 at the time. Levelled some areas with a dry mix. Screed ended up 40-50mm thick which is fine with UFH.

Far too formal for most builders IMO. You could be putting off many small contractors. First approach should be phone call followed by site visit and a drawing. Then you get into detail with interested parties.

It might take a week to learn the basics but years to become proficient. Might be worth it if you have many small jobs to do like on a refurb. Not worth trying to build a house unless you are doing it full time over several years.

Since it’s on a corner, I would replace brick 1 first as you suggest.

They may be asking for more drawings to justify exceeding the target decision time. Just give them the drawing requested, a traffic survey is unlikely to be taken into consideration.

Not sure which regulation you are looking at but most builders would just drill the joists where needed. You should avoid the middle third of the span where bending stress is highest and always drill mid-depth (neutral axis). What size joists and pipes?

Have you got an alternative quotation? That would help you to negotiate payment terms! I often find first quotes are heavily weighted in the supplier’s favour as they need to manage their cash flow and risk. I would want the pre-manufacturing deposit as small as possible and protected by credit card. The 40% on completion of manufacturing and issue of a ‘vesting’’ certificate of title to the goods. This will help take possession in case the supplier goes into administration. Finally, maximum possible retention until after delivery and erection.

+2 for the steels, we have one in our 280sq.m 5 bed house. Never seen so many sliding doors, is that something you really want or architect’s idea? The one in the snug slides into a curved wall?! Related to bathroom comments, not liking the soil pipes in the dining room, acoustic or not! Whats going on between the dining room and snug, is there a hidden door behind a bookcase?