dpmiller

Seen them offered for boats.

You could ring Brett Martin in Mallusk http://www.brettmartin.com/en-gb/plumbing-and-drainage/products/rainwater-systems/anthracite-grey.aspx or Down PVC (great to deal with) http://www.downpvc.co.uk/rainwater.html or online try https://www.directplastics.com/guttering-downpipes/anthracite-grey-gutter

where are your listening positions?

Trying to decide between Tapco and IKO myself. Tending towards IKO based on their larger presence and easier availability. The IKO rep did point out that whilst Tapco might work out a touch cheaper per slate they would be able to help with other aspects of the roof as a package if necessary. I've seen a job with the Tapco and it looks superb. One point of note tho- the documentation for the Tapco makes reference to slight curling when hot/wet, but no such remark for the IKO. Have you observed this @JSHarris?

I've a trade acc at the local factors (and do work for them too, which likely helps), certainly keeps car costs down.

why not just pop into the local motor factors?

Another vote for hot wire here. In a past life I installed and service fume cupboards and BSCs. Recirc (carbon filtered) FCs run at a very low airflow and it's pretty critical for containment. So we needed accuracy and repeatability down to and under 0.3m/s. Rotary vane anemometers with suitable spec came from Airflow Developments (4" rotor) and were pricey but back then (25 years back now) hot wires were ten times the price. Now? what FC work I still do, I use a Testo 405 like @JSHarris has. They were a real game changer when introduced. Heartily recommended!

Same experience here buying the suite that's in our current bathroom. One tap hole or two, mate? Clink there you go.

I'm thinking of going the other way with this- manifold in the GF plantroom with risers to the FF circuits (bathrooms only), bottle air traps on the top of the risers to ensure the loops stay full..

If anyone ever needs to cut loads of nice round holes in thin-ish metals (ducting, trunking, cladding) try an impact hole saw. We've to bring cabling into car paint rooms quite often and the thin panels are a b*gger to put a hole saw through. On a whim I tried one of the Dewalt impact bits and was astonished. Fast, cold cutting with neat edges. Even my wee Makita pencil impact screwdriver (another stunning piece of kit, the TD021) will pop a 32mm hole smartish.

I thought @Onoff meant putting the assy into the bender?

I doubt you'd get the bend close enough to the backplate to squeeze it into a stud wall.

Nick, I've got the bigger version of that window in the current attic. (clambers up stairs) First position on the stay opens it 30mm but there aint much overlap so blown rain would be an issue.

looked at this or similar in B&Q a while back and was quite impressed.

I think Tegral do the same product?

From my reading of the HMRC blurb, VAT can be claimed back on the build of a garage associated with the new residence, as long as it's on the plans. In our case I'm looking at a simple insulated steel-clad shed (to try and fit in with the agricultural vernacular). Would anyone see a problem with supply and erect of such a structure being claimed for or zero rated at purchase?

car exhaust clamps may be in your future.

Get some Essex flanges and put the taps wherever you like.

depends how much water it's removing. Keep the box well sealed and there shouldn't be much, What about putting a wrap on the pipe to act as a wick, might be able to balance new condensation with a bit of evaporation?

Thinking about this again. Our design has a pantry space pretty much in the core of the house. Off the utility room, backing onto the stairwell. It'll be void of underfloor heat obviously. Here's what I'm thinking, please pick holes in it as you desire. Sealed door. Thinking a secondhand UPVC external door, but what *is* the U value of a bog-standard eggbox external door? Underscreed vent for fresh air supply Ceiling vent for convective outflow. say, 40mm PIR behind the PB. screed separated from the utility at the threshold. Now here's the question. What about building blocks up through a void in the underfloor insulation and pouring this bit of screed on them?

does it depend on the volume of the boiler maybe?

Oddly enough I was watching a program a few nights back on Quest about plane crashes and it alluded to earlier "fireproofing" techniques actually producing more smoke and (if conditions were right) burning hotter than non- proofed items.

aye. blade and adaptor off, then scaffold bar (or whatever fits better) on the shaft.

no recommendations on a new'un but if you've nothing to lose try straightening the shaft?

had one for about ten years with no issues other tha one of the feet coming off. Plenty sturdy and easy to operate.