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Jymmm

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  1. Yes a wet car will inevitably be put in there as the car charger is inside the garage.
  2. The dew point was 11degC yesterday with the previous week more or less constantly below 0 so it’s an extreme shift. There is a DPC and the floor beam & block + screed is sealed with epoxy. it’s just difficult to know which way to go. Vent or seal it up. cars are parked in it too. do piv systems work in this situation ?
  3. Hi all, Has anyone solved or vastly improved the garage condensation issues that plague detached garages/workshops this time of year. Is it just a case of improving ventilation until the problem goes away? I have vented eaves and ridge which means the boarded out roof space has very little condensation. But at floor level the tools, bikes, engine parts etc are all dripping.
  4. trying to increase the heat in the two flow meters with the red arrow. 3l/m looks to be the max i can get it too with most of the other loops having a max range all the way to 5
  5. Thanks for the replies - that makes sense. Trying to increase the floor temperature in that room as its a few degs lower compared with the other loops. The pipe lengths are unknown to me unfortunantly and its the furthest room from the manifold/pump. I'll have to see what can be done with the pump speed. Thinking about it backwards; In terms of efficency with a heatpump & buffer - Would it ever make sense to match the other loops to the worst performing loop? I.e adjust the other loops to give the same surface temps as the coldest floor surface making everything the same.
  6. Hi All, I've always struggled to set the flow on the above flowmeters. I've only just noticed that they sit alot higher than the others on the black plastic threaded part. Is this why i can't increase the flow? How do i fix this? How would i know the type to replace if i need to get another one Thanks
  7. Do you have any details on the logic controller you have. Is it something you have DIY'd ? I'd be interested in one for my system.
  8. Used for DHW only. Standard newbuild 300mm wall with 100mm insulation. Having to change the Magnesium anode every year is tedious and expensive (£60 and ESP the only place to buy them). Documentation isn’t that good either - I have no idea how to set the anti-legionella function for example. It’s also a little bit too noisy for my liking. That said I’ve had no problems with the end-product – hot water is fine. I also don’t mind the constant ventilation even if it’s reducing the heating efficiency of the house. Have they quoted you a price yet as it would be interesting to know. Factor in the £200 odd for the annual service and anode change (and good luck finding someone easily to do the job). If I needed to replace it I’d have a look at something like the vaillant aroSTOR depending on price. Care to elaborate?
  9. In theory they should clean out the filters. Measure the refrigerant levels and pressure. Check over the settings and make sure everything is running optimally Eye ball for any gas or water leaks. I've had mine serviced a few times but i'm not convinced its value for money. I now just do it myself - I don't measure the gas but i do data log the power consumption stats which would tell me if it was running funky. Check if your warrantly necessitates the service though.
  10. This an interesting idea - have you used this yourself ? Looking at their website a 'shelly 1' with the temperature addon module and a DHT22 sensor and you have the basis of a smart thermostat.
  11. No issues that I’ve encountered yet. I’m at the first year service point so plan to inspect/change the anode. Trying to get through to ESP to purchase a spare is fairly painful. Has anyone managed to source their own?
  12. I have an Ecocent 300l, happy to answer any questions you may have
  13. It could be that the thermostat needs to be calibrated. Check floor and wall temperatures with an IR thermometer (a very usefull gadget with underfloor heating)
  14. What do you mean by ‘MI,s’? Thanks for your info - I think I definitely need to try longer flexi
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