markc

Yes, no need to grout if decorative only

As @Declan52 says, its all about the base to prevent wheel loads creating ruts. Dont forget to use a Geotextile - terram etc to prevent the mud coming back up

OSB will be perfect for this, i would use tile adhesive as its cheaper and easier to cover a large area.

Looks fine, floor and wall finishes hide anything, and you will be super critical of yourself where contractors/builders rarely care about anything that will be covered up

Working Platform Certificate is basically a quality assurance document specific to piling. It was introduced to pass responsibility back to say the piling layout and requirements have been met to support the specified building/loads required. Your groundworker is unlikely to take responsibility for the piling works unless thats in their package, and the piling contractor cannot say that the ring beam or slab has been correctly installed and connected to the piles.

Oil burners are very simple engineering, easy to repair (unless its the water jacket etc) fans are nothing special, burners are much easier to fix and service that gas

I would go tight to the window - very rare anyone fixes anything tight to a window opening. corners get shelves, speakers etc.

Thats the bedroom?

If its built in then no carpet under

Happy its not only me who is struggling to spot whatever it is ... sink does look low tho

The pulsing is usually power limitation, many hobs can be plugged into 13Amp socket or hard wired onto 30amp supply. Some need a link/switch changing over. some hobs also go into auto power limiting if mains voltage is low.

We import and sell Cherry Pickers (Access Platforms) and mini cranes plus Railway Plant and we have been mentally busy, plus as imported goods are getting cheaper its just going to get busier for us. We cant get machines and plant trailers fast enough to supply the demand.

Does anyone know where this thread is going? apart from down the pan. Thinking of ongoing threads - whatever happened to the cold house/condensation/imbalanced radiators/wet climate thingy ... cant remember what it was now.

@Rob99 yes it was a standard yellow hose, no brand name just something to to replace the elastic thing.

In comparison, i then bought an Ebay hose and reel and 3 years later its still brilliant.

Not sure of the brand but it wasn't a cheap one - i am a great believer in buying quality tools and equipment. I realised the physics of making something very flexible and able to extend and contract that much will never be robust and/or able to withstand 2-3 bar of water pressure. When the trigger is used you can see the hose expand and stretch ... very difficult to remain waterproof as soon became evident with the multiple punctures/leaks

Absolute rubbish, mine lasted less than two weeks

Insulating the attic floor wont do much unless you also insulate the entrance etc. but as above, why do you want to make a cold attic?

Macerated waste will still have solids that a grey water pump is unlikely to cope with .... blockage clearing wont be pleasant

@ashthekid In that case i would go for a site weld assuming the cranked beam is already in place, if not the steel supplier will sort the connection detail.

Beautiful place but You are never going to get that air-tight or enough insulation to make ASHP work

Fitting kitchens in DOT and Dab rooms is a pain especially in old places with uneven walls behind. Ive ended up cutting a strip out of the D&D plasterboard and installing a batten to fix the top cabinets to.

Or ... We only employ apprentice plasters and they can make an ok job of dot and dab but unlikely they can get an acceptable finish on a full wet wall.

Go around the outside unless absolutely necessary due to required falls and termination levels preventing the extended runs

In that case it isn't a simple restraint fixing. You need to know the total loads imposed on the beam, Is the vertical leg of the cranked beam designed for the cantilever loads of the new beam and all loads? Is the cranked beam top fixing designed for the additional cantilevered load? Personally i would make the two side masonry columns structural and support the loads, and only fix for restraint.