tonyshouse

There are alternatives to PH and current building regs awe woefully poor. I like MINERGIE — minimum energy and happily live without A heating system, use about 1/3 of PH energy use limit. think before you build- energy will only get more expensive.

Copper sulphate - but best plan is to scrape it off - don’t let it block the drain

Sand and cement slurry and a broom - I would do it

Is it solid or cavity wall, where is the air tightness barrier?

I like ?

No, when you say retile, was it tiles before or slates? the ridge will have gone in straight and roof settled a tad, purlins look good, I would add a single bolted collar on top of the purlin above the prop/hanger if it was my roof and live with the sag. It is possible to straighten the sag by disconnecting rafters at the ridge while coverings are off and introducing perfect size shim packers to realign it, not for me though, too much hassle for too little gain.

What happens re insulation above the cavity closure?

I favour cold water hand washing, lots of people do this as hw can take too long to arrive

Water finds its own level, reduce the level outside or raise the level of the floor or house

What is under the insulation?

I would use nothing, or boiled linseed oil or waxoil

Try solar streets 4k for 4kWp

Low impact, up to 3m after that you should increase the size of the duct to the next size up, 200 to 250mm for the whole length

If there is a double slate dpc then that is the best there is, find it and ensure that it is not bridged. cupboards prevent heat getting to walls and so they become colder and so attract condensation which then can’t re evaporate as the cupboards also prevent air circulation i would advise insulation to external walls and floor floor could be concrete on polystyrene 100mm with A142 mesh and 4mm latex screed

Can you do a floor plan with wall thicknesses on it. will you be adding any insulation

It will blow a lot of your heat and money out through all the cracks when it gets cold, like setting fire to pound notes yes it works nut the cost is HIGH

I use cheapest thinnest polythene then 1F roofing felt, sometimes battened down, often not , poly keeps floor clean from the tat in the felt

I hate undercount, yuk gets under the worktop sing junction, Unhygienic, went for inset

On shape, it is best to minimise surface area to floor are ratio, love the idea of PH, go for a lot lower energy use if you can, easy to build in more fabric insulation and airtightness, dead difficult and expensive to retrofit i would do away with roof windows over the bed, very noisy even if 3g high heat loss to the sky too i would advise a building physics model to inform window sizes/overheating dangers - worst are west facing windows, the last job I was a consultant on, west windows reduced in size greatly 75% from memory and a lot of built in shading happened to southern facade

Don’t need felt, do need to repair broken, cracked, slipped or missing slates. Sarking keeps dirt out but better off without it

As I see it there is no significant air movement under a floating floor so thermal bypass is minimal.

Just but together, I use poly air barrier/vpm on top then flooring sheets glued, I prefer ply

Need to decide where the insulation and air tightness barrier is, then Use appropriate doors

Start a wish list, like never paying another heating bill , and any other high level dreams

Can’t see the point of insulation on the back of the loft door, where is the insulation barrier and where is the air barrier? what happens under the floor?