tonyshouse

Likely nothing in the timber frame?

Build them in and use a ‘tony tray’ to deal with the air tightness.

Just slightly bigger mortar beds to go from metric to imperial cf 225mm to 9”

Never rely on sarking membranes to keep water out! tiles should really lap further onto the lead on the bottom Course but strong mortar pointing will likely suffice

I like windows set well back inside the wall

Inflation, oil running out, profiteering, upgrading networks, tax, draughts, increasing demand .....

I would fill it, then either sticky scrim and easyfill then feather out 450 or 600 wide, sand and paint or paper tape it and feather out

DiY if you can , 200mm eps and silicone or acrylic render will keep it vapour open , nice to do back too, front could be 3D printed in a couple years time

Dead naff and destined to leak i prefer a secret gutter, fail safe, looks nicer, easier less lead. we didn’t use stepped flashings preferring angle ground slot above the water line slightly up hill , wedged and leadmated in

We always used steel band herringbone strutting pulled very tight and not touching, all double or triple joists were double or triple thickness timbers e.g. 8x4 or 8.6 etc. always built in never on hangers

I don’t like 12mm ply, why is it there? 18 or not at all, I like vcl and air barrier combined and immediately behind the plasterboard Canada know how to do it right and inspect it before sheeting in

I never used noggins except for light fittings I never screwed down a floor, never glued and never had a squeaky, well just one after the joists shrank on the way into new extension upstairs and Floor touched Old wall , easy fixed by removing a brick. Nailer and 50mm ring shanks

I always like to see non but joins, internal corners, 20mm steps forming internal corners , non mortar slip joints

Do boards touch wallsanywhere?

Slightly corroded the pipe 0.01mm within a few weeks then stopped and is only cosmetic now

You can clean off the green with scourer and cleaning solution suggest new washers and ptfe tape on the olives when remaking joints or leave til taps are changed then do it

Yes , ok in deluge but should normally not

Try it and see if it ever fills up and overflows.probably be ok but it is poor

https://novaplas.com.au/products/brick-ties/brick-ties-brick-wall-ties/ But probably no cert here yet

Yes but I think they have been discontinued now I won’t ever use metal wall ties again, mainly as I have retired though I do Still offer advice

No need to repoint, possible touching in locally with colour matched mortar, not for me yet 25 yrs time may be.

Poorly rubbed up brickwork typical of stubbiest on a price unlikely to leak none the less to eliminate water penetration I a fix a sheet of poly over the brick wall in question I often find flashings leak in or junctions between bricks and balcony waterproof layer.

Stainless steel conducts less than steel wire and can be thinner but it is a metal and is highly conductive - I stopped using metal ties in the 90’s preferring nylon bit ocd but every little helps

I used basalt fibre wall ties with my 300 wide cavities, mega strong very low thermal bridging, best laid as you go, 6 courses bricks, 2 courses blocks, insulation, ties, 2 more block courses, 6 courses of bricks, insulation, ties, 6 more courses of bricks etc

300mm deep is NOT OK 760 is the norm and will be required bt the water company, take photos or better dont backfill, they would normally inspect