tonyshouse

Pocket into wall if possible

Not much but velocity does, how about two ducts and two terminals , I would somehow squeeze in 50mm ducts if pos

It sounds bang no to from a planning point of view as it will be overlooking never mind the h&s and fire safety /access egress problems

I like RSJ to sit on post, joists notched into RSJ cant see the point of the double joist across the middle

Mine would depressurise the house but not move any air

I think that there needs to a very major change to the law on smoke, it is carcinogenic, antisocial and unpleasant

Smart meter do not reduce energy use

I always used taped edges against the window frames and ran a bead of acrylic sealant onto the taped edge when fitting, this effectively produced a second air tightness seal, the insulation having already been sealed and used as the air barrier.

I have seen lots of internal loadbearing wall built off the slab with no foundations under them common in the 50’s some had gone down a bit. you may be able to add a truss or girder beam in the loft or an rsj/gloelam, pleas put it above the ceiling

Thermal board is just sheet insulation bonded to plasterboard I use sheet insulation then plasterboard. I was keen about air sealing too http://tonyshouse.readinguk.org/274-2/

I use thermal board for the reveals and head, if not then insulation behind rg5 plasterboard more economic and cheaper not to us t/e in the reveals, use up offcuts

Is work within 1m of a party wall involved could you use a plain piece of steel or plain pieces and bolt or weld on site? have you decided everything, paint colours, tiles or splashbacks, ordered the kitchen, sourced worktops, sink, taps, flooring appliances etc decide now while there is no pressure

Filled it - happy to be interviewed or to answer more questions

Try lime putty then

Great choice ? I used Xenon filled with solar capture low iron glass shaded in summer no heating system went slightly better with the U values - ten years on no regrets

I use wood, untreated and more robust

My favourite tool is a laser guided bulldozer 5mm control over any plane surface without breaking a sweat

Slopes are free retaining walls cost money grass seed would work well, I used to sow rugby pitches in my teens with an expert, we used 1/3 oz per yard, equates to 10g/m2 everyone wants to sow thick but the rugby pitches are still there 50 yrs later I also sowed lawns in my previous two homes at that rate and they were brilliant, never work out, I used a mixture without reygrass, red fescue, chewing fescue and brown bent sowing thin gives seedlings room to establish and one seedling under any hand print was enough, too thickly sown and seedlings are over crowded. prepare the ground well dig remove rubble and lumps, grade to an even slope rake and screed loads, allow to settle and re do then sow good luck and enjoy it is hard graft

How would it suit you to use wood and never have to treat it?

Leave an off cut in a bucket of water over the weekend and see what happens, I will be interested to see

I worry about water getting in behind over fascias fixed to wood, especially with disastrous under-cloaks

I think that I an both a bit lazy and a bit minimalist and take the view that if it doesn’t need it treatment then it ain’t getting it. saving resources is very important in my philosophy, and then there is time saving, the money as well as eliminating the risks involved in doing it.

I have wooden fascias, soffits and barge boards untreated, perfect ten years on, just wrote it up http://tonyshouse.readinguk.org/category/the-house/

I have system installed in my house, we run it quite a lot slower than recommended, totally love it and would never want to be without it.

Si units only talk about m or mm , ie we should not use centimetres 60mm most likely and sounds way to thin to me