tonyshouse

Great idea 3g and external shutters are great, ours work so well we don’t need curtains. We have internorm windows and love them, wouldn’t use any other make. advise getting a physics model to inform shading and overheating. beam and block is dangerous for unwanted draughts. u values for me should be less than 0.1 sips often have inbuilt thermal bridges and so advise mitigating these with additional insulation.

A lot of heat exchangers have microfins in them but they can clog and loose efficiency or fail completely

Veissmann for me every time - fail safe heat exchanger, very low problems for engineers under guarantee.

Slate packers under wood bearers at 600c/c ventilation will do the rest

I hate undercloaks, cloaked tiles, cloakers, corner tiles dry verges all work better, undercloaks mortar fails and tracks water in, they need to tilt outwards if used.

If there are problems they will arise when you come to sell, just when you don’t want problems. My advice is 100% sure now.

+1 for cedar

I don’t think of patination oil as paint and always use it

Original lead looks too thin and failed, renewed properly good for 80 yrs. never paint lead, insulate ceiling if you do take it off

Yes, but very close under a window sill is low risk, to each side of the window above a bay, yes , minimum is to tray the water sidewards And downwards and out to the face of brickwork with a welt at the bottom end

I started in December, it is always possible to work with the weather.

I have never use cavity trays for roof abutments nor had any problems, They can still go in if you want weeping out onto the face of the brickwork.

We used to leave 17mm under doors in the new houses we built , in those days everything except the wet areas were carpeted and bigger gaps were ok

I would advise adding a false head piece under the existing head refit door, piece in where hinge has moved down

Agree, I think I call them brick slips and the ones that go round the corners are called pistol bricks. They are fragile. s/h bricks can be quite valuable, I would have a go at cutting some, best with a water cooled table saw

I think the straight cover looks more modern and cleaner.

For me the lead goes in too far on this detail, 20mm plenty, also should go in slightly uphill to direct any water outward imagine a cut running up at the same angle as the roof but 80mm above the tiles - I call it a cover flashing

Yes, much easier and less lead

I don’t like stepped flashings any more , angle grinder cut angled slightly up 85 to 100mm up. Then secret gutter under the tiles with or without cover flashing

Need to distinguish between pressure and flow, they are different

All 15mm with reasonable mains pressure do you have a cold cistern in the loft?

Shower room, kitchen sink, Radiator, washing machine?

More likely leaking plumbing/rainwater getting in, what is on the other side of that wall?

Valley tiles are a bit forgiving and will cope with 8 degrees difference in pitch, after that they will start to kick up tiles. I like grp valley formers but valley tiles are best

Equalise distances . Ridge in first then common rafters to the front of the gable then the valley rafter should run from the point where the ridge intersects the main pitch to about where your hand is (where the top of two rafter Meet, one from each pitch