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tonyshouse

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Everything posted by tonyshouse

  1. tonyshouse
    I gave up on dpc‘ s in reveals years ago, what is any different at the reveal to the body of the wall where there aren’t any, the reveal can probably deal with wet and damp better than the wall
  2. tonyshouse
    Cut sheet insulation into the open cavity , I closed off with plasterboard fully bonded to reveal then wet plastered the walls http://tonyshouse.readinguk.org/274-2/
  3. tonyshouse
    Bucket handle is the most weatherproof so I would go for that - it is quick, secret is don’t touch it with a brush til powdery or it will smear
  4. tonyshouse
    Unquestionably weather struck
  5. tonyshouse
    No, can go above, but beware of cold bridging
  6. tonyshouse
    Two photos touching
  7. tonyshouse
    My gutters are still brown, copper initially, was expecting them to have gone green by now ten years on not expensive when compared with having to do it more than once
  8. tonyshouse
    Copper here, silent, long lasting, no leaks, etc
  9. tonyshouse
    An arch is one of the strongest structures there is, some still standing after thousands of years. facetted approach might be easiest then arch former over the top after plasterboard, after insulation and mitigation of thermal bridging
  10. tonyshouse
    I used to buy 25mm or 50mm too deep joists and cut from the middle to 25 or 50 down one end and put the bit back on the other end to make a firinged joist MIN FALL 1 IN 40 AND NO PUDDLES
  11. tonyshouse
    Do you mean 1.3 or .13 for the walls?
  12. tonyshouse
    Miss em out or use silicone
  13. tonyshouse
    3g for me and cheap windows are a false economy. I love inward opening tilt and turn for cleaning, with friction stays you can reach out through the “hinge side” to clean. Fire escape windows will be required which like you say is about clear width and height. don’t go below 800 to glass or you will need toughened Sounds nice
  14. tonyshouse
    Block and beam is cold and can be draughty under skirtings. Needs insulation and air tightness, do you have any targets fit these?
  15. tonyshouse
    Just brick it up cut back plaster 50 or 100mm replaster , traditional wisdom says to leave a hole 200x65 and fit an air vent, I no longer recommend this but open up a similar hole in the loft , if on outside wall fill the flue with pourable insulation eps, micafill etc insulate 600mm up chimney in the loft
  16. tonyshouse
    Re battery storage generally- we need to reduce our overall energy demand as a nation, battery storage increases this as it is inherently inefficient
  17. tonyshouse
    Yes, if you are very clever you get away without raising them up the 25mm , humps up and secured to existing ceiling joists, wires are usually the problem
  18. tonyshouse
    If you must use a tray then the only ones worth having are those with upstands
  19. tonyshouse
    My engineer once allowed us to corbel out ove an obstruction in the ground at the corner of the building, still standing 45 years later
  20. tonyshouse
    The wetroom vinyl floor goes say 120mm up the wall and the wet wall panels overlap this by say 40mm fail safe easy clean
  21. tonyshouse
    Wetroom floor, semi non slip vinyl wet wall panels, no leaks ever
  22. tonyshouse
    Ten years ago my basement including the g/f slab but not finishes cost 35k and was 80m2
  23. tonyshouse
    Why not go wetroom style? = fail safe
  24. tonyshouse
    It could also influence the balance of the system and flow rate in the kitchen
  25. tonyshouse
    Parallel to wall best to leave a 50mm gap between it and the wall
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