tonyshouse

I reckon wet rot

I would choose the u value first then work out what to do to achieve it. For me 0.1 or below would be the aim

I think that there should be a total ban on coal, wood and biomas combustion in all towns, cities and schools for health and air quality reasons All those activities also release CO2 into the atmosphere

Cheap paint?

Heat detector, interlinked with smoke alarms in the rest of the home, not near or above hob but set back in the middle of the kitchen area

Zero energy is not possible, sorry, zero carbon is ill defined and now they talk about net zero carbon whatever that means i like Passive Haus, Minergie, reducing energy use building regs are in a mess

the bad news about mould spores is that thy grow well at 37C in moist environs like inside lungs ?

yes pvp

It looks to me like condensation, the corner has become colder than the other walls in the room so moisture is “pumped” there driven by pvp and can’t evaporate again as there is no air movement

Decide on the U-value first then design to make it work, less than 0.1 in my book good idea to do a thermal model too.

I would go larger ducts and lower flow rates, single unit I know that they use radial ducts a lot in mainland Europe but I prefer branched ducts designed in

I would treat the garage as outside the heated envelope and air barrier if you must have an integral one

kWh

Tony’s secret way ro reduce lime scale build up in kettle, always empty completely immediately after boiling, allowing water to cool slowly maximises scale build up. applying this to hot water cylinder - run at constant temperature, I use 50C and have done all my adult life. 24/7 365 alternatively get a water softener, beware of snake oil products there are a LOT out there

sounds like a bad design idea to me - integral garages are on my list of in house winter cooling systems

but monster heat losses, it could even be the cause of rising temperatures like heat island effects

how much more eye watering are they than before the fan went in or with it off?

Not sure you will want me on this thread. PhD in chemistry, bit pedantic, AGW skeptic, but keen on energy use reduction and reduction in use of all resources anti waste and single use plastics Water is a greenhouse gas too -- get out of that

more expensive though - the water content would have the good influence on the temperature swings still

stashing bottles full of water everywhere would be cheaper I like stable temperatures and heavyweight construction with the insulation on the outside. I agree with Jeremy on the misuse of the term TM and wish to point out that water is almost unique having an anomalously high capacity to store heat.

my butter is still soft and easily spreadable lives on granite worktop ?

The fans I worry about that are widely used in problem social housing are PIV - positive input ventilation fans. These cure landlord problems at the tenants expense, blowing cool dry air into the home 24/7 and exhausting warm air through gaps, cracks, fan vents, trickle vents How much energy do they use?

200mm of eps is not too much. ? 50 or 80 of pir is woefully insufficient vaguely worried about ground gasses, including radon and clay heave, why did they use beam and block? Response times, i love slow response times, = comfortable = stays warm and stops overheating, good design is important If it was mine i would be filling under beam and block areas with eps beads, full fill, and digging deeper to include more eps under the new concrete, would miss out the screede as suggested and fix pipes mid way in the 100 concrete on A142 mesh

I would, so easy and suck it and which is best, with or without

No problem, think about how many are in use. Top access is essential with removable basket/bottle bit, ss screws