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tonyshouse

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Everything posted by tonyshouse

  1. tonyshouse
    Fault on ring main, still there with solar off, they told us wrong
  2. tonyshouse
    Why?
  3. tonyshouse
    I think they plug the PAT tester in to a normal socket near the inverter but on its own circuit from a distribution board, when testing appliances it gives strange readings when the solar is generating 50kWp system into same boardv
  4. tonyshouse
    They have noticed some strange readings when doing their electrical PAT testing, also only seem to be evident when the PV are generating. He wondered whether the PV could be the cause, and also wondered whether this may have any relationship to/bearing on the export meter issue that we thought needed looking at. any opinions, the PV is grid connected ,
  5. tonyshouse
    Criminal painting white! Wax oil eg Osmo oil, incredibly hard wearing, 5 very thin coats on treads lightly wire wool and dust between coats then once every 10 years two coats
  6. tonyshouse
    If you are working within a meter of his new or old wall PWA applies
  7. tonyshouse
    Well done ?
  8. tonyshouse
    Is it down hill?
  9. tonyshouse
    The party wall act says working within 1m of a party wall.
  10. tonyshouse
    Always store properly before use, weight down and fix straps following day (not where trusses go)
  11. tonyshouse
    Definitely needed, very risky to go ahead without it in place, they can stop you working
  12. tonyshouse
    Vendors problem, ask them to sort it
  13. tonyshouse
    No paint , oil or preservative is fine on oak paint is dangerous, oak significantly acidic and oily and throws off paint
  14. tonyshouse
    CAREFULLY Take it out to the size you want don’t lean in to I ? - see what falls down if you are worried drill through on top of your lintel and 350mm and leave the drill bit in the hole under the end of the corbelled brick or fit a metal plate 270mm long 100 wide 6mm thick without liability - sorry
  15. tonyshouse
    Do you have an air tightness layer anywhere? Beware silicone does not take paint,
  16. tonyshouse
    If you can afford it a physics model of the house will help you by informing decisions and optimising things, lots of glass = lots of problems with heat loss and heat gains, west facing can be worst for overheating
  17. tonyshouse
    Insulation is cheapest long term option
  18. tonyshouse
    Does the roof need to be ventilated? Are the walls masonry? Sand and cement pointing would be cheapest, foam easiest but difficult to do neatly , indeed likely to make a mess. Linseed oil and sand pointing would be flexible and a range of gun applied sealants are simple too, foam is not UV stable nor insect proof. my choice might be clear silicone or caulk to match colour of rafter feet
  19. tonyshouse
    OPC or mastercrete for mortars
  20. tonyshouse
    Sorry, it should of course say “sub solis”
  21. tonyshouse
    +1 on settlement, mine took 7 years to stop I think I have a French drain at bottom edge of slab with 250mm peashingle surround to a borehole soakaway, I put EPS against the walls, thought about drainage layer but didn’t do it, backfilled with natural sun soils compacted in layers.
  22. tonyshouse
    I think that they should go in first and be bedded and haunched with concrete , I think you may mean 1000x150x 40
  23. tonyshouse
    How much water is there in the ground, have you done investigations? I built a basement , use no tanking or waterproofing - brave, yes, but that was eleven years ago
  24. tonyshouse
    Do not under any circumstances introduce a vapour barrier on the cold side of your insulation - yes sweating, staining and rot
  25. tonyshouse
    I hate cavity lintels as they introduce so much thermal bridging - and +1 on deflection points
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