tonyshouse

Osb may not be dimensionally stable and warp, buckle etc, what centres will the battens be? you may be building yourself a colander where outdoor air can get in bypassing any insulation in the walls.

Taller fascia if cutting back the existing and keeping the soffit in the same place.

Dense solid concrete blocks give best sound deadening. Ensure no air paths, through ducts under floor or via ceiling void

Need to insulate the beam over the patio door possible composite laminated plasterboard infill web with pir ply over vertical face and plasterboard

Coach screw to wall with plugs or chemical anchors 10mm wood bit through wood, then 10mm masonry bit bang in blue plug and screw in 120mm coach screw and washer one in each joist space 1/3 up

I would clear silicone to the render, silicone nice where mortar damaged/missing then repair with local sand and cement 4:1 then after a week silicone that too

Much more relevant problems with sealing to adjoining air barriers, all round windows, penetrations and joist/beam ends

Under or over the floorboards

Vapour barriers always go on the warm side of the insulation

Not going to leak, may be they didn’t de-nib the tile next to the flashing . Tile should sit against first upstand and on second one

Basics are that moisture moves from areas of high partial vapour pressure to places where it is lower, a downhill unstoppable process lived in generally has higher pvp than not lived in - ie garage ceiling will get damp possibly grow mildew on top surface in winter vapour barrier will mitigate the risk

What are we achieving by replacing this felt?

Insulation between noggins and above them, leave 50mm ventilation gap but add as much insulation as you can for me nogs at 1200cc or two per run floor needs insulating and whole thing a vapour barrier and air tightness layer

I reckon it is for tanking only

Why do you need tanking? for wetroom failsafe design is vinyl flooring scrolled up walls 150mm, then hang wall linings, ideally shower lining panels or tile backing board 50mm over the top edge of the floor, surface mounted shower can’t leak

Rad valves for you web based and expensive

No, philanthropic - plenty of info on the website

https://readinguk.org/draughtbusters/

In the last couple of years the DraughtBusters have adjusted quite a fe upvc doors to realign the striker, some needed to be raised at the hinge side to lift the whole door. They do drop, warp and deform. a few needed adjustment of the latch plate and two needed replacement latch plate /keep

I don’t like advertising but I mean a compare online site for bathrooms

Bucket shops online all in with taps, basin and cabinet 100 to 180 choice of sizes, I bought 36 last year average 120 - China basin ?

Only another 10 million to now then ? Here is one I did earlier https://readinguk.org/draughtbusters/basic-techniques/loft-and-first-floor-ceilings/ And scroll down

You say , “I am not convinced that the test result is representative of the real world other than on a very windy day. Most of the places where you could feel cold air coming through I have never felt any cold air at all nor have I seen anything when using the IR camera on a cold and windy day.” yes but it could also be that hot air is escaping by chimney effects warming or keeping stuff warm on its way out

Sealing skirting to the floor in many cases is like closing the door after the horse has bolted, definitely upstairs it is

42kWh/m2/y. Overall, can’t separate heating and HW but think 7kWh/m2/y