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tonyshouse

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Everything posted by tonyshouse

  1. Re parapet walls, they leak, they drag heat out of buildings, are not fail safe, cause the problems you mention.
  2. All Re-‘s should go into gulleys to prevent smells , I would add a catch pit and clean it regularly
  3. Hopefully not flat, min fall 1:40 asphalt for me if you must have a flat roof, I won’t entertain them, nor parapet walls
  4. Cheaper to buy a unit with sink and taps than some sheets of ply! I used to rebate the frame and house 1/4 ply into it then varnish the whole lot, grooved into door frames and proper hinges, all ply edges protected
  5. I sometimes have pushed off cuts of pipe in the lap to increase ventilation - free and no downside though I worry about bats, bees and wasps using them
  6. I am finding that 18V battery with thin disc cuts as well and as fast as my 9” plug in grinder! Not as deep though
  7. It may or may not be a sewer, it could be a private drain in which case you do what you like to it so long as it still works best to ascertain whether it is theirs or yours - sewer or drain
  8. Please define sewer
  9. Much better without battens, they can rot, even treated ones, decide on a target U-value then insulation sheets and plasterboard or composites sheets stuck on and mechanically fixed
  10. You can buy retrofit brush seal staff and parting beads and manufacture or router in seals to top, bottom and meeting rail
  11. There should not be any water on the sarking, rarely wind driven snow may be -
  12. I would put one duct in each of the boxings
  13. Is it just under the solar panels?
  14. Yes, a tilting fillet or sprocket
  15. Massive bonus points for uncluttered loft
  16. Don’t panic, does it dry out again during the following day? I think yes. I dint like it dripping on the solar inverter, fix something above it to divert the drips and may as well protect the ply boards and switch too. to eliminate solar, is it happening on both sides of the roof? Are they leaving the loft trap ajar?
  17. It is also incredibly common for water to run down fascia boards, sometimes over the back of gutters, wind blown when guttering set too low, tracking from eaves tiles, valley gutters, general outdoor damp, mist etc
  18. Result of shower over bath in constant use, bits of dodgy grout and sealants , once wet gets behind the tiles it cant dry out. refitting a bath Tony’s way - here http://tonyshouse.readinguk.org/fitting-a-bath/ I would replaster wall, let it dry out, seal bath to wall, shower panel or tile walls , seal to bath I wish baths had upstands, I won’t fit shower trays that don’t have upstands and prefer wetroom style for all showers
  19. There are thousands of roofs tiled like that, is the sideways lap ok, tile underneath, especially the eaves tile half way on the crack between the tiles on top?
  20. With nice blocks behind I would fix into them and use sleeves round the fixing shanks to trap the brackets by 1mm deflection onto the plasterboard. I would probably use several 5mm screws, 5.5mm hole and red plugs, others may prefer 8mm and different colour plugs.
  21. Big sheets are OK then, I would foam them un place and together others might even tape them
  22. Roof should be waterproof without relying on sarking
  23. Best to build fail safe - semi non slip vinyl coved up walls and physically clamped to shower drain
  24. Sheet insulation is all but impossible to fit, there will likely be a LOT of thermal bypass going on - avoid like the plague mitigation is to fit it all yourself ?
  25. +1 and No action needed, use the notches, don’t drill any holes near them
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