tonyshouse

I would always prefer to see a movement joint in such circumstances (unless built as original building on same foundations at the same time). Not a big surprise, I would add an acme measuring gauge and report to your insurer that you are monitoring a crack, photo it every month and save in a spreadsheet - we are looking for ongoing or cyclical movements if not big problems simply Re mastic it

I have a 1m long foam gun with a dog leg at the end . But seems to me bit like a colander

Herein lies the problem, correct dose for the life of the system, ie not fail safe, = unnecessary risk I hate things that are not fail safe

There is a big difference between soft water and artificially softened water. Soft water contains trace levels of soluble minerals and almost no carbonates. On the other hand artificially softened water removes calcium or magnesium carbonated by ion exchanging the metals ions for sodium ions. The result is a dilute solution of sodium carbonate. Unfortunately this solution reacts with aluminium, boilers with Ali heat exchangers warn not to fill with softened water. Inhibitors will not stop this reaction and it can be very aggressive at temperatures above 50, destroying heat exchanger within a year. Generally holes appear and leaks result, first noticed by great clouds of steam from the flue. fortunately water softeners are a minority sport.

SS can if you are very unlucky pinhole due to crystal imperfections or poor quality steel black iron oxide can collect in the bottom of rads if no inhibitor is used

42 all in

Are we talking kWh/m2/year ?

Do not under any circumstances fill using artificially softened water, it kills them! expensive, doesn’t style take precedence over material so why pay over the odds?

Where parge laps over membrane it needs a key, typically EML fixed over the edge, we used 50mm stapled to plate or blocks

Ideally use a sleeved drill, need ti permanently prevent stuff falling into the drilled hole. the walls of Windsor castle keep are 6m thick, you have it easy ?

I don’t value energy efficiency as it doesn’t do what people think it says on the tin, it says nothing about how much or little is used. I much prefer energy use reduction - using less that is what it should say on the tin so why not say it!

Need to be very careful running cooled water to make sure that the cooled water temperature stays above dew point temperature

Is it dot and dabbed? sealing skirtings to floor will still leave draughts in the floor void which can come out behind architraves and other gaps internally.

Where is the air barrier? How does it join to the adjoining ones? vcl can be an air barrier - I wouldn’t trust parge coat as a long term air barrier blocks look like aircrete and these are notorious for cracking and round joists can be very problematic an joists shrink too.

Yes, you will definitely risk getting condensation on the ducts if you use it in cooling mode, this will drip off and stain the ceiling. Insulating the ducts will reduce but not eliminate the problem. Good design will negate the problem, ideally by designing out the need for air cooling.

Incompatible dimmer and LED luminary, not all are suitable, try changing switch for a normal one outside chance of faulty led

No, the total energy used is the area under the graph of the difference in temperature between indoors and outdoors approx = to total heat loss. The warmer they house the greater the heat loss the more energy consumed it will be more comfortable I don’t have a heating system anymore but I advise different temperatures at different times of the day for those that do in terms of absolute efficiency heat pumps work best at lower output temperatures, exactly balancing over 24hhs may be more efficient but will also be more expensive/use more energy

Yes, but don’t bridge it thermally, insulation stuffed in is simple and should joint to loft/roof insulation

Wet plaster, loving care and attention to detail, see DraughtBusters.ReadingUK.org

Use wide dpc under the plates then tuck dpm under it host before screede, is there ant floor insulation, if so where?

If you remove it then the cavity WILL be draughty and wick heat away from the house negating the effect of the new EWI. I would save the 1500 without a doubt

Budget units available from fan manufacturers, I use Boulder units available on line. I would undersize and slightly pressurise the house so all draughts go very slowly outwards a few% difference in balancing flows/pressures. your plan sounds good, good luck with it

The existing CWI will tend to dry out even if it is damp now, not get damper providing the new EWI is vapour open, even it isn’t i cant see how the CWI could get damp apart from a plumbing leak

How deep is the loft insulation?

Normal cement mortar is fine but I wouldn’t bother and it certainly is not the problem I also would not remove the concrete path for this reason, again it isn’t the problem. what is upstairs? Is there a window above or near that corner?