tonyshouse

I kind of agree but walls. Ceiling, floors come above windows as do draught proofing and air tightness

I built a basement with no tanking or waterproofing ten years ago ,

I would push the doors out to 15mm back from the outside face of the brickwork, bring the steel inside your insulation barrier ie wrap insulation round the outside of it all

Draughtproofing is far and away best bang for your buck, insulation and air sealing followed by fabric insulation, windows are nearly last on the list

Would not be without mine

It is worth using 3g for sound insulation alone. Need good draught seals that touch properly and no holes, gaps or cracks round or through the frames (and yes can be found on new installs) for reducing heat losses and energy use they work well too, so well that in central and Northern European 3g has become standard and the volume product, dg is more expensive!

70mm overhang for me

Eps is cheaper, breathable, less contraversial

Disaster waiting to happen! Sorry, it will all go mouldy, best not to compress insulation, in fact use eps, MDF will get damp, change shape and eventually die what will it be for?

No plasticiser additives when using lime, lime dose it for you.

Bit weird having steel in strip footings, why does he want it in there?

Design it out!

I see no zone valves, is it all controlled by pumps?

Did they leave the valves clicked into manually open position?

We used to staple them - no comeback no split boards using pneumatic stapler

Wired up wrong, a very common problem, I have even seen motorised valves opening other zones when one opens. Pic of wiring should help unless you can get at its brain.

We have inset ceiling speakers ?

Thanks, no I love it, verging on a philosophical discussion! The problem with economic calculations is that we would all live in cardboard boxes or shipping containers, government policy sets (or thinks it sets) minimum standards, yes my rooms are slightly smaller than they would have been without my wide cavity - a price I am prepared to carry in order to live without a boiler. Then the old chestnut of over what timescale should we do calculations? How long will a building last? all good fun.

Depends how you look at it, solid recycled aggregate block walls with 300mm EWI clad with brick or a 300mm fully filled cavity wall

YES!

Between the blockwork and the closer there are gaps, ditto in the corners, then outdoor sit bets through these gaps and behind linings, with wet plaster where the closer joking the blocks it cracks through the plaster

I hate them, they cause a lot of air leakage and cracking ?

I would prop the ceiling frame back to level and flat, you will need to remove the 2x1 hangers to do this, I would sister the binder with 6x2, then use some simple metalwork to fixe each ceiling joist to it easiest is Banda strapping /builders and with holes in it replace the hangers with say 4x2 nailed to ceiling joist, binder, presumed purlin and roof rafter only half as many needed

Windows have been painted foe hundreds of years. I always preferred to paint before glazing. They will need repainting one day ?

Trees grow a lot taller than 6.6m! Try a local sawmill