tonyshouse

I doubt that they will be sharp enough to pick it up

I love those windows, have had nine for over ten years, no problems, fantastic quality. I can’t cope with plastic and have larch, the wood is fantastic.

The concrete subfloor is likely to be insubstantial and not very flat or level, it could be only 50mm thick too

70mm too thin, will crack. I like the idea of multiple layers of eps , you need a proper slab and for me that means min 100 thick concrete with anti cracking mesh and presumably ugh pipes in it too. Need perimeter insulation too pir? then min 4 months to fully dry out before laying wood on it

My plan would be to fill and seal all gaps, misses and cracks, remove skirting, check that the floor void is sealed wrt the loft, add additional sheet insulation over the entire wall areas, followed by plasterboard and skim

Spray outside with vinegar or dye in the water see if wet inside is acidic or coloured

In the old days brick arches were used , catnic lintels available for use in single skin span and load tables for concrete lintels wide openings with imposed loads need calcs anyway

I like notched in so joist sits on steel with noggins in between

The foil and foil tape is a vapour barrier, there is a question about how long it will last. how will you join it to the vapour barriers in the adjoining elements? Wall under the floor, wall, window, access hatch linings etc? then where is the air tightness layer? Is this hermetically sealed to adjoining elements? I always used a sheet of thin poly, omit the tape and join the poly to adjoining elements

Better, a lot better in air leakage terms and bridging and cost not to have them insulation fixings are good - fixing foam then mechanical fixings for me

Perfect place for a sculpture

There are hundreds of thousands of loft conversions where this has not been done and we don’t hear of problems, why waste the effort

I used quite a lot of metal corrugated tiles that. Old go down to 7.5 degree pitch looked like concrete pan tiles

Is that a 100mm load bearing wall ? I would align with bottom of chord I can see zero point in having structural noggins above that. I can see a good reason for them in the mid span point as they will help spread point loads on the floor and spread it a bit to the truss each side. I would expect diagonal bracing to the underside of the rafters of the trusses, I use to swap these foe X runs of steel band. is there a water tank on the flat roof? I would add 6x2 purlins in the triangular void, either top or bottom of the vertical member trusses are designed to minimise everything, we like strong and robust tonys danger warning — Never drill a truss

What is the make-up under the existing patio? I would hesitate at filling with soil, well compacted would be ok, that is not easy to achieve and needs lower no organic i would do 150 or at a pinch 125 thick reinforced slab with A252 mesh that way it would move as one, also need to have a movement joint between new and existing and don’t put the pool across this

Leave plaster on, use it as the airtightness layer. Make sure that it goes down between the joists through the floor void. fill the cavity graphite eps is breathable - insulated plasterboard is ok - no battens, no voids, no air leakage paths slight bridging at internal walls, need to window reveals, heads and sills stick or fix sheets directly to plaster, no voids or air gaps 100mm follow the insulation layer through the floor void I would add false skeiling ceilings to mitigate thermal bridge at the wall, plate insulate gable and chimney/party wall above the ceiling

Good leadworker will boss and dress , welding makes it quicker softwood rolls should be ok, I have never seen hardwood ones

I can’t see any welding being needed

They can blow off/up easily if not treated properly and fully with patination oil including up/under laps you will get ugly streaking down the slates. Any dripping or runs into flash will etch the glass too.

Off cuts, foam, bonding plaster, anything airtight

Clout nails

Most likely originally had storey height frames with borrowed lights and changed in filling with aerated blocks

Plasterboard is available in 2.5m sheets, 2400, 2440, 2500,2600, 2700, 3000 sheets

Run your hand over it, how does it feel?

I would cut two vertical slots 225mm high and break out the bit of block leaving a hole the right width but slightly tall