JohnMo

I was meaning the 30mm you mentioned

The insulation should be installed gap free, heat will just bypass the insulation, effectively taking the easy route. Two options remove and replace with better fitting pieces. Or foam fill the gaps to full depth, cut back flush once hardened. What ever is done all joints should be taped with aluminium tape. Is insulation going above or below, to mitigate repeat bringing through the wood?

I have a combi and had three showers running tonight at the same time. Not using this system, but something similar done in a different way. Some food for thought. Combi-SuperFlow-White-Paper-v1-2-4.pdf Canetis-SuperFlow-Product-Sheet-WE-050318.pdf

We have momentary switches at bathroom, en- suites and kitchen, didn't bother with utility. Leave the boost timing to those set in the mvhr. Have humidity sensors, but hit and miss if the fire up, seemed ok in September, but now you have two showers running and no response, so glad I installed the switches.

Main reason for the the thermal store is for the summer to divert solar PV to immersion. Hopefully will not use any or very little gas in the summer. No real economy being looked for, I wanted a combi, my wife wanted to be able to run 3 showers at the same time (and we can) we also have PV and wanted to self consume as much as possible; so have an immersion diverter. In the past, the combis I have had, always flowed less in winter compared to summer, so some preheat in winter gives me summer (or better) performance all year round, we are using a similar principles to the Superflow, see attached. The water is quite a bit warmer coming of the thermal store DHW coil than when it goes in, not hot but the stores only at 40 degs. In the summer the water will come out DHW coil and temperature controlled by the tcv and pass through the combi without further heating; as the boiler is designed to take preheated solar water. The water from stop cock is 22mm to the thermal store, with a reducer at the outlet of the temperature control valve from the DHW coil to the combi. Combi-SuperFlow-White-Paper-v1-2-4.pdf

We are based in NE Scotland, labour costs are quite low, for your info

Underlay even with the lowest tog will insulate, so will be no better or worse than you are now. So you options are, to either breakout the battons, or fill between. You may need to look at the other floor levels in adjoining rooms, as you would want them to be as level with your new finished floor as possible. Once you get started the battons could come out quite easily, then infill with a self leveling compound. Engineered wood floor would then be glued down. I was advised that floating the floor wasn't the best for heat transfer, as you have another insulation layer and air gaps. So 2.2 would be the best option

Trouble is a lot of my be able - but not willing.

I sorted mine by connecting the boiler central heating to the thermal store boiler coil. Boiler heats the store to 40 deg. UFH is connected to thermal store, via pump on UFH manifold and 2 port valve at thermal store. If the house thermostat calls for heat, the 2 port valve opens flow from thermal store, 2 port valve sends a signal to boiler via the thermal store thermostat for heat. Boiler fires only if store is below 35 deg and house calls for more heat. Boiler central heating temperature is set to 60 degs and remains in condensing mode throughout, boiler fires for approx 20 mins a couple of times a day. UFH manifold pump runs 24/7, to distribute heat better through floor even when hot is not being supplied. DHW is pre heated as it flows through DHW coil on its way to the combi, to improve performance.

We are at £1700/m2, ( had quite a bit of ground work due to site) and have done loads myself, high spec, if your doing a main contractor you will easily hit £2000/m2

No I don't have a low loss header.

Atag A325ECX - 32kW, modulation 6.1 to 30.9kW in heating mode and 34.3 kW in hot water mode.

Will do the easy bits. UFH, will be controlled by a temperature control valve, on the manifold, so set the the heating temperature at what you want for the towel radiators, the UFH will let that temperature down by mixing with the return flow. So you can could manage that as a single circuit. Have you considered electric towel heater's, so you can use them in the summer, or when the heating is off? We have them with 150W elements, time them to come on for 3 hours in the morning same at night. Assume your UFH is in a screed or similar, if so the flow temperature, will be dispersed through the screed, if your floors are near 27 you will feel it very hot under foot. We have 300mm spacing on our pipes for the UFH and a flow temp of around 33 deg, our floor temp is about 21/22 deg. I was sure I didn't need a buffer, or a temperature control valve on the UFH manifold, as I had good modulation on the boiler, it could also do the flow temps I wanted etc, but when put into service we had lots of short cycling, may of been ok when we are designed temps, (-4 deg) but not so good at 10 degs outside temperature. Not up to speed on the different operating plans for a cylinder, but someone will help with that. I am using a thermal store and combi. But that's a different story.

BBA Cert for Icynene states. "Once cured, if required the product is trimmed flat using a saw and covered with lining board." So no issue trimming, as stated it is an open cell product.

Looking at the electrical cars on offer at the moment, they seem to be making the cars even bigger, saw an Audi the other day, electric, but as big or bigger than my van.

Don't think any of the companies are letting you move at the moment. Both our gas and electric supplies went bust, so now on standard tarrifs

We build an insulated shed for my well water filters etc. Log shed and another shed to follow. But reason not to use as you suggest, but may be a lot of work compared to regular sized battons

When we had our pre construction EPC completed, the only recommendations that were classed as financial viable was a wind turbine, anyone any idea what size or make of turbine was would want you use? We are on a windy site, so may make some sense, but not likely just want to explore.

There may be grants available for external insulation, so look for that also. Could save a bundle of cash. My wife sister recently had it done cost zero.

Forgot to mention all surfaces have to below a set moisture content, prior to applying, we had to wait 3 months after finishing the roof

Our roof was done in Icynene, the contractor heats it up to a high temperature before application. Our roof is about 270m2 and it took two days to apply and cut back, the was 10 large bags of waste. There is two ways to fill, fully fill, where they over fill and cut back, with huge amounts of waste. Or fill and cut back the high spots, we had some areas where the insulation is about 5 to 10mm below flush, which worked for us. Not cheap, but if i paying a contractor to install anything else, labour cost could have been huge. We have Posi rafters and I wanted all areas filled. Our roof after application of Icynene, was exposed for about a month prior to vcl was installed and no shrinkage seen

Do you have to use crates? We certainly didn't, and have been approved, we are Scotland, so rules may be different. We had 43m3 soak away for treatment tank. 30-50mm below perferated pipe, 10 to 20mm above, trench wrapped in geo Tex fabric.

We have a wood stove, lit it twice now, took longer to light it than it was burning, as the house got too hot. We now have a candle in it, although when you go to blow it out, you get covered in ash.

We've just installed Elica hood and all we had to do was to add a regenerative carbon filter. Ours comes out the top, but I think hob ones come out the plinth

Assume you have a job with extractor. To pose a different question, do you need to duct out? Could you just install a carbon filter and exit into room? Not sure if you have mvhr, that would take away any steam generated