JohnMo

To get system analysis as an after fit he would need to access the bar codes from each optimiser. To enable Monitoring and Safety features: • Collect the TS4 removable barcode label from the PV module junction box, install and commission communication accessories..

I bought a petrol generator 9kVA, for £800 from Hyundai, just got a changeover switch from Amazon for £40. Ran my armoured 6mm2 cable out to the shed, just need the electrician to wire it all up. That should keep the basics up and running and hopefully the PV will work when it sees the 230v.

From the user manual. Optimization and Long Strings features don’t require communication accessories for operation.

You need to choose something that suits the space and your pocket. Bit like asking what's the best pair of trousers to buy, you'll get a thousand answers and buy something completely different.

I would have put the windows s little higher

Have a search in the heating section a thread on there which sounds very similar to yours, was posted after the last storm.

The other alternative is to use sound acoustic insulation, it tends to hang together a bit better, but has the same thermal resistance. I found it a little less itchy.

Just read the regs. Not sure it is allowed to be connected to the mvhr anyway (second bullet below b.) Small garages - garages of less than 30m2 do not require the ventilation to be designed. It is expected that a degree of fortuitous ventilation is created by the imperfect fit of ‘up and over’ doors or pass doors. With such garages, it is inadvisable for designers to attempt to achieve an airtight construction. A garage with a floor area of at least 30m2 but not more than 60m2 used for the parking of motor vehicles should have provision for natural or mechanical ventilation. Ventilation should be provided in accordance with the following guidance: where the garage is naturally ventilated, by providing at least 2 permanent ventilators, each with an open area of at least 1/3000th of the floor area they serve, positioned to encourage through ventilation with one of the permanent ventilators being not more than 600mm above floor level, or where the garage is mechanically ventilated, by providing a system: capable of continuous operation, designed to provide at least 2 air changes per hour, and independent of any other ventilation system, and constructed so that two-thirds of the exhaust air is extracted from outlets not more than 600mm above floor level

Have you looked at a dMVHR, one unit in the wall. These are generally run based on condition. Would keep BC happy and would be future plans proof. Quite like these, although not used one. https://ecostream.org.uk/d-mvhr/

Not sure I agree fully I have an Atag A325ECX (combi) and had three showers running the other day. The only modification to the standard configuration are 1. Flow restrictor not installed 2. I have PV with immersion diverter, so have a thermal store, upstream and cold water passes through the DHW coil on its way to the combi. So will get some preheat (read point 4) 3. UFH is connected to thermal store. 4. Combi heats the thermal store to 40 degs (no real PV generated in winter). So DHW gets preheated to about 25 degs in winter.

Have to agree, everyone wants to be an engineer, some that I would not employ as a technician. Best comment during our build (by someone calling them self as a engineer) was 'why are you insulating the floor, heat rises, you are just wasting your time and money."

Try this. https://www.zerohomebills.com/product/mypv-dc-elwa-solar-pv-water-heater/

That's the wrong immersion. This is the correct one, come with it own MPPT. https://www.my-pv.com/en/products/elwa

You could use a MyPV, immersion. Designed for DC, and direct connection to a 2kW array. No switching issues.

Had a look on the intergas website and it states the boiler is in condensing mode 100% of the time.

First thing to look at, is the boiler running in condensing mode. For this to occur your return temp back into the boiler needs to be below 53 degs. The lower the better. Can you run the DHW and CH at different temperatures? Otherwise as TonyT said.

Ours isn't flat but at 12 deg. Covered in EPDM membrane. Do see some lifting in high wind as air flows between it and the underlay. But the strips are about 1m wide and are screwed down through spreader plates every 300 or so mm along the long edge, the next strip overlaps and is welded to seal. Either the new roof cover wasn't mechanical fixed correctly or if bonded not bonded correctly. Did it come with any warranty?

Thinking PIR, but if the option was there a low percentage of light all the time would be good

Have quite a long drive and approximately 2m tall retaining wall. Looking for solar powered down lighting similar to street lights. I may need to extend upwards to get lights at correct height but that ok. I really want to install solar powered only, but need decent performance in winter. Panel size shouldn't be an issue as I have loads of space on a south facing part of the hill. Anyone using anything they can recommend?

What does the supplier say in their instructions to use?

Basics are. Remove rust, or remove all loose and convert to something else, with rust converter. Hamerite isn't that good any more as mentioned. A galvanizing spray with give the metal a sacrificial costing which will deplete prior to rust coming back. But sprays go on very thin. A brush zinc paint like the architect mentioned with give a longer lasting protection. If you are ok with a dull silver, something like a Rustoleom galvanizing spray, several good coats. If you want a different colour follow the painting instructions on the tin. You need a coating that is around 99% zinc. Or a zinc phosphate based epoxy primer as it bonds well, expensive but good.

Strange choices as both very different in look. Which would suit the house best? Imprint concrete is not Suds compliant, so more water run off, resin bound is Suds compliant as is lock block as they are both water open and let's water naturally soak away rather than run off. Another alternative I have found is gravel mixed with lime, the lime goes hard over time and holds the gravel in place, they use in car show areas around us and been told it has next to no maintenance requirements.

Think so. I have used Coanda effect nozzles in all bedrooms, hall and living room, made duct runs real simple. No drafts as the air is at room temperature by the time it descends. I used the Zehnder Supply air valve, coanda effect, ⌀ 90mm SKU: 990326254. Also used ComfoTube ⌀ 90mm, adjustable airflow regulator, to adjust flow rate. About £9 each for the valve, and regulators about £25 each.

Could you use coanda effect supply nozzles to throw the air from the mezzanine area to the other side of the cathedral area (will Google roof line for about 4 to 6m, this would need no ducts in the cathedral roof. The two dots in the roof slope about 20% up in the photo are mine.

Not sure it works anything like a conventional fridge/heat pump compressor. From their website Acoustic waves are generated and amplified automatically in our machines by temperature gradient or by electricity. They do a compression-expansion work in the manner of a piston in a thermal engine or in a compression machine used to produce heat or cold, which makes it possible to carry out ultra-efficient heat pumping, without moving parts and without greenhouse gas refrigerant.