JohnMo

Once set up, apart from boosting when required for steam or smells, it runs 24/7 at the same setting. If you unit has a setback setting, you could use that when away from the house or on holiday. As the mvhr is the only ventilation in a house if you reduce at night, unless you have the window open your CO2 levels in bedroom may be too high. But if you run two units one for bedrooms the other for the rest of the house, then you could run at setback for bedrooms in the day and normal speed at night, the other way round downstairs. Set back is normally controlled by a volt free contact, so a simple timer could be used.

B&Q or Wickes, or similar are usually the cheapest place to buy

The lower the thermal conductivity the better. Glass wool at 0.04, performs approx 30% better for the same depth. I would look to add another 200 to 300mm of mineral or glass on top

We have voulted ceiling and due to maintenance issues, we went for wall lights and side lights only. Only issue is window cleaning, as I came off the ladder last time I tried. So think electric window cleaner thing, on a long pole. Need to a long decorating pole also. Not sure a tall step ladder would feel very stable, would need a wide base to be stable.

So wife at home downstairs and yourself working upstairs, you are both wanting heat at same time. So both the upstairs and downstairs calling for heat at the same time during the day and likely just the downstairs in the evening. Low temp heating works best if left to run for a long time. So why not use a single system, instead of two. Have a programmable TRVs in the rooms and a master timer to switch the overall heating timings. Bedroom office, set times and temp to suit your work schedule, other bedrooms sets as you need, downstairs room set as you need.

When I grew up in East Anglia, they flooded the fields in winter and they froze for most of the winter, that was 40-50 years ago, now you would just have a wet field, likely hood of freezing and staying frozen - not likely. Now live in NE Scotland, Loch I live by, used to freeze sold for months, now it partly freezes for a week or so. So yes I have.

I have two units, 190m2 house. Advantages Pipe runs can be simpler and generally shorter. You can use zoning so you don't boost the whole when you shower. We have one unit that does the two spare bedrooms and en-suite, it also does our en-suite. So when I shower only the small unit boosts, the rest of the house runs as normal. If sized suitably then low noise Disadvantages. Two sets of filters to change Two electrical supplies

The temp at the top of the tank will be closer to the temperature your heat pump is set at the bottom at closer to cold. Where the thermostat is you can assume the contents at and above the thermostat level will at or above the thermostat temperature. So if you are delivering heat from the heat pump at 55 and your thermostat is set at 45, at 1/3 up will be at 45 and top close to 55

What temperature does your tank get to in 45 mins? If hitting the thermostat , I would be tempted to leave the timer as is and reduce set temperature of the thermostat. Once the tank is up to temp, the heat pump will stop adding to the the tank. You shower and wash up at about 37 deg, so you are always watering down the hot water. The lower you can get the temp, the lower the heating cost and the lower the losses. Just a matter of adjust and use for a couple days, once things aren't hot enough add a bit more back on.

I would look to increase the floor insulation to 200mm of PIR. Use 2 layers of say 100mm each with staggered joints at the different layers. This should get a U value around 0.1. Almost half your floor heat loss, for very little outlay Same with the roof increase to 200mm

Cabin filters there's a good idea - will have to do some research

Didn't have water most the time, so told the contractors that needed water they had to provide a tote tank.

I just had a double socket on off the meter. Everyone managed just fine. Mostly battery chargers and a big chop saw once or twice.

Unless you go for "rate of change' humidity sensor I would stick with manual switches at each wet room. We have managed for 2 months without kitchen extractor. But resisted frying. Put filters on each extract point, to keep ducts clean. We didn't fit cold weather pre heater's we have g4 filters, but would have been better going f7. We also installed a combined directional inlet outlet on the outside wall as other stuff got in the way of pipe runs.

Good point

We have just moved in to our new build, with solar, and it produces no real power at this time of the year, will be great in summer. Assume you have calculated your heat demand, it should be much lower than either boiler is capable of, so we are only really looking at recovery time for the cylinder. Bigger will give you better recovery time, but if outside the modulation range of boiler the central heating demand will cause the boiler to go into short cycling, so then you get into having a buffer. So look at the specs of the boilers on offer to make sure you can safely run the heating on the days like now (7 or 8 degs) not worst case design days. Or do what I did, indirect combination thermal store, combi boiler central heating connected to coil only, heating tank to 40 degs (boiler central heating temp set at 60 deg and has a return temp up to 55 deg, so always just condensing). Domestic Cold water goes through DHW coil on it way to combi via mixer valve (set at 55 deg) to give combi preheated water to improve DHW performance. UFH connected to thermal store via a 2 way valve operated by thermostat. In summer TS heated by immersion from excess PV. Boiler needs to be able to take preheated water (Atag do, plus others, lots do not). Water hotter than set point of DHW, passes through boiler without boiler starting up.

I got my quote from Scotframe, it does state fully what's included, you can pick and mix what you want to include, internal doors etc you can choose from a good selection or choose from elsewhere and have that cost deducted. Any once I picked myself up at seeing the cost, I went with Durisol and did a self managed and mostly self build.

I used energysavingtrust.org.uk - PV calculations for the below. 3kw array. My postcode, roof angle and direction etc Yield forecast 2331kWh/y. We pay 17.02p per kWh If we use full yield savings are £396/y System cost £2300, including immersion diverter, additional electrical installation costs around £500. Rest is self installed. Plan to self consume and will not get paid for any export. If I only manage to consume 90%, yield would be equal to £356 £2800/£356 = 7.8 years

Smoke and heat have to interlink (either cable or radio link), can only be mains or none removable battery powered. CO2 does not need to interlink with smoke or heat. Only heat alarms are allowed in a kitchen. We also have Aico.

Any worries the kids jump in and it's too hot?

Resurrection of old thread Is anyone using - are they any good in real life?

With mvhr, you don't a have separate extractor through the wall, as this would depressurise the building and also defeat the balance inlet/extract with heat recovery. But you would/could have a cooker hood on internal recycle to clean up grease etc, otherwise it ends up in your ventilation ducts. Do you need both PIV and MEV?

Look up Canetis Superflow. It basically either a 25 or 50 litre vessel that sits upstream of a combi boiler, to improve the performance of a combi boiler. These vessels can sit below the boiler or be wall mounted. Image shows the large and small versions

I'm on 4g, and have three on my phone, which is rubbish in the house, I asked the different contractors that came to site, which mobile provider they were using and if they wouldn't mind doing a speed test. Vodafone, gives me between 16 and 36Mb/s, where three gave about 1 at best. At my old address it was the other way around, three great, Vodafone not so good.

We had a air test prior to the plasterboard going on and had leak all around the building at the dpc. Used blower proof liquid to seal. May be worth a quick air test before you start fixing the skirtings etc, think it cost about £100.