JohnMo

Thought it may be...

Triple aim for 0.8 on an opening window, for the whole window not the glazing. Double 1.2, but they are difficult to find. Ask for full u value calcs before you agree to buy, as many salesmen try to talk glazing u value, not whole window.

Lesson learned, agree prices before approving a changes, they always cost more than you expect.

Don't have a continuous insulation layer - wrong, it is thermal bridge free, the continuous woodcrete thickness and the mix material layer (woodcrete, PIR and concrete) have the same thermal resistance. U value of 0.14, thermal bridge free out the box. Block dimensions are acceptable to get a straight vertical wall Funny that the lattice work concrete/woodcrete doesn't require the same amount of rebar required for a polystyrene block. The porous nature allows a high slump concrete mix, which can settle more easily without air pockets, the porous nature allowing the concrete to dewater. Funny how leaky the blocks are, never had any water in the house after the roof went in. Behind timber cladding you have a breathable membrane, same as most buildings. Stone slips directly bonded to woodcrete keep other water out. And the porous nature of the block is vapour open, for a breathable building.

Yes you use scaffold, the same scaffold as you will need to erect to allow the roof structure and covering to be installed. So scaffold up, do final rows of blocks, pour, move on to roof.

Still don't understand the hate people seem to have for Durisol. Other than 12mm OSB screwed (directly into the woodcrete) at corners, lintels and cut blocks, that's the only bracing you need. No blow out on my build or two other I know about near me. Easy enough to do yourself, without a lorry load of bracing other systems seem to demand. Durisol has been around for 70 to 80 years, tried tested and worked easily enough for me. A downside is it's not airtight, so that's an extra job to do, but it is vapour open and can give a breathable building.

Isn't that what mvhr does already, although did loose the will to live reading the link

I have seen this may worth looking at https://m.sessile-oak.co.uk/Resources/Glazing There is a thread on here that looked, had a design, so may be worth a search. Don't know any of the answers, but aware how unforgiving glass is. Linear expansion coefficient is what you are looking at. If you have a gap around the window at zero degrees, with the sun shine on the wall and the window, glass will expand so will the wall, closing gaps, you need enough space between the different pieces so they don't end up breaking the glass. https://www.google.co.uk/amp/s/www.engineeringtoolbox.com/amp/linear-expansion-coefficients-d_95.html

Sharp sand, grass likes the extra drainage, moss hates because it irritates them, so they don't grow. I think you need to use horticultural instead of builders Sharp sand.

Weather compensation, heating optimization start/stop thermostat, waste water heat recovery unit under a shower, more insulation, better window u value

Some basic questions Have you checked you have allowed enough room for the glass thermal expansion and any settling of building at sides, bottom and top of glazing. Do you need a weeping hole at bottom to prevent any water accumulation? All you sizing looks tight for easy assembly, the rubber glued to the glazing may cause hang ups when trying to insert in to block work.

Or larger b&q off the shelf range, you pick it of the shelf and know if it's all there.

Granted, that's why I have a filter on the extract to the MVHR. dMEV units can be removed from the wall or cleaned in situ. A MEV unit would also benefit having a filter in the extract of the kitchen

Resurrection of an old thread, could the water be run through a heat exchanger and used to heat or preheat DHW? So instead of taking fresh water and dumping it, provide a closed loop recovery system? Any thoughts?

After about year and being self insured, I think the cost may be down to you. But check the solar company warranty etc.

I would just install a dMEV fan. These run all the time at a low flow rate and are almost silent. Something like a vent axia, would do the job. A decent electric towel rad, on timer thermostat, would do the heating.

We have Sansfil also. Should only be installed by qualified person, which is a plus. Use exterior grade 18mm ply instead of OSB. Sanafil sits on a flease and is screwed on to the ply with spreader plates and the overlapping seam, which covers the screws is hot air welded. Standing seams are then welded to the membrane, set the spacing so a standing seam covers any joints. Our roof is 12 degs so you will see the effect.

Try finding a a wet plasterer in NE Scotland, hens teeth, when you do find they are too busy. Plasterboard and Ames taping is the norm around us. So wet plaster was a non starter for us.

Parge coat. 25kg cement, 75kg builders sand, 3 shovels hydrated lime. Enough water to give double cream consistency.

Do you know you home heat demand at the lowest temperature outdoors, that will be the main driver to size

dMEV flow rates being continuos are quite low. They give you good ventilation and the losses are not that high, if you do the calculations. If your that concerned about heat loss do heat recovery with dMVHR units. But look at capital cost and running cost v heat loss.

Short answer would be no as described. But a recirculating hood, has a grease and carbon filter, so the outflow back in to the room will be mostly clean. To comply with building regs you will need extract outdoors also. A small MEV with shared ducts would then be ok or 2 dMEV would suit. The longer the duct the bigger the pressure drop and the bigger the fan required.

Our architect did the permeability tests and designed the soakaway to suit. However these calculations had to be signed off by an "expert" that had the right computer program. Ultimately the whole treatment system had to be approved by SEPA, including the soakaway and they insisted on a pumped system for the outflow to soakaway. Beware SEPA approval took an age.

Same thing being advertised here. https://www.airconditioningcentre.com/product/ahp-60/ Say Panasonic compressor, no mention of swimming pools

You can spend a lot on a kitchen, if that is money well spent depends. A fantastic ultra high quality kitchen and poor fitter and poor design, will never be as good as a medium quality kitchen with a great fitter and good design, design is important and so is how it's installed. We spent £25k on a kitchen in 1998, the designer, took our design, chucked it in the bin and designed us a fantastic kitchen, had no issue paying for the Italian kitchen with contoured granite and stainless steel tops. We saw the kitchen a couple of years ago and still looked great. 22 years later, we paid £16k, again great design, great fitter, no Italian cabinets, but who would know. Shop around, get opinions of different companies, don't pay upfront, use a company you feel comfortable with.