crispy_wafer

I'm procrastinating again! This time over how I ought to plumb the incoming mains to the plant room. Originally I was thinking copper 22mm, take off a couple of reducing T's for Sink and outside tap, up the wall, through the web joists and down into the plant room, which then got me onto thinking about chasing the wall out so the dot and dab will go over the pipe nicely, then what about covering/protecting the pipe from the adhesive blah blah blah I'm heading down a rabbit hole. Or should I just HEP20 it, same route plan, just add metalized tape over the pipe where it will be behind plasterboard?

Hi, I've got about 30t of crusher run turning up today as I'm planning on starting to build up the area and levels around the build. Ultimately we'll have the area I'm building up overlaid with something more appealing like slabs or tiles, but I'm reckoning a good base of crusher is a decent start. I'd already moved a load into place before the build but as its decent outside and I'm putting off some indoor jobs for a week or two So in trying to work out how much material I need to get into place, how much below DPC should my finished surface be? - 2 bricks? Then under the slabs I will be adding 100mm of whacked 1" down limestone - 1 brick, so that should give me about 100 I need to raise at the moment? Does that sound/look about right using the pic below as a sample?

Would like to sing the praises and reiterate the general consensus of using a credit card to protect yourself when purchasing. Long story short, tried to purchase something, website showed stock. Retailer couldnt/wouldnt deliver the item, obviously out of stock, later found out due to manufacturers lead times. Retailer would not respond to requests for information. Got arsey when I suggested cancel the order, finally cancelled then wouldn't refund the money. Section 75 team stepped in and sorted out for me. Yes, I ought to be a bit more savvy when buying, but I'm building to a tight budget and am looking for bargains everywhere. A few personal lessons to learn, but happy I escaped this time. A few rules to adhere to Section 75 | Your Rights Explained | Experian

Wonder if this 60l tank is some kind of buffer tank? Does it have it's own immersion?

is this a DIY install or did you commission a company to do for you? have you much scope in your airflow calcs to lower the fan speeds?

Worst that could happen, is that you trim the riser wrong, but (make sure you find out the manufacturer of the IC and risers so you can identical) you can then fetch another and have another go... Inlet is fine on the branch angle. outlet is on the main run - good!

At least the In is higher that the Out! Once you have removed the surrounding material from the IC can you twist it so would point a bit more upright? If so, the easiest method would be do that, then trim the top riser at at angle so the cover fits flush with the ground level. Not perfect, but would it still be functional. If you are dead set on making it perfect, then you'd need to expose a good length of out, and in pipe. You can cut pipe with a saw then knock out the I/C resite it and rejoin with a couple of slip connectors and a bit of pipe. Have a look over at Inserting an Inspection Chamber | Pavingexpert as most of what I'd type out is probably better explained there.

Aye, pumped outlet to a drain.

I'm sure for best efficiency installers like the two to be close, however, as long as pipework is properly insulated, and depending on distance the install may need a second pump to help push the water along...

I think you need to define gubbins in a bit more detail to work out how much room you may need. My plant room (cupboard) is 1.2*1.2, will house the cylinder which is about 600mm diameter. Expansion vessels will be wall mounted, and the hot and cold water manifolds will be wall mounted high up too. Pipework will run round the perimeter. The UFH manifold are located under the stairs (centrally in the house) so just a supply and return pipe to this. MVHR is in the insulated attic space. there will be 1 Consumer unit too. The challenge is placing everything so that access and maintenance isn't too much of a challenge.

Seems like good money for a weeks work, if the land was all mine no issues with neighbouring land or local authorities land, then I'd be pricing up the ducting/materials from a civils supplier and digger hire for a week or 2 and certainly consider doing it myself. Is the terrain particularly difficult to work with? Would it be a pain in the arse job?

Was thinking about this yesterday as I was looking at my sketch and thinking about the kitchen, questioning my decision to allow one run to the kitchen, my thoughts were that it's highly unlikely that we'll be drawing water from from multiple devices concurrently. However depending on your kitchen layout it may be easier to lob another length of hep, rather than add T's and shut off valves and run it round the walls.

Done a quick search and HWAM crops up a few times, anyone with an HWAM stove still happy with their purchase? What you got? I've got the option of having something freestanding or inset mounted, I'm quite taken by the HWAM 3110, or a STUV inset. Originally fancied a Charnwood bay, but no deliveries till next year, so that's out of the question.

Sorted it, managed to break just enough screed, insulation, and block to get at the rest bend, she held it down with a bit of 4*2 whilsts I pulled the stub pipe out with some grips. The bit of pipe as per had been cut and chamferred with his stihl saw and looked like a sharks mouth. Noticed the rubber seal had a nice U shape in it where he'd pushed the pipe in. Result! Swapped the seal from another fitting, new bit of pipe. Felt like that was a bit of last chance saloon! BI round today to do an inspection then I can fill the trenches, do another quick test. Then plan out the waste treatment plant.

I suspect individually that either of the 2 smaller units will modulate down lower than the single higher capacity unit. The manufacturers bumf should reveal all.

Probably not a great idea, unless you have an alternate means of ventilation.

So, in thinking I was just about done with this lot, I thought I'd air test all the pipes it in preparation for calling the building inspector. All held pressure solidly, apart from 1 section, which just happens to be 9m of pipework under the floor, and 9m of pipework I didn't install, joint issue in the middle or joint at the rest bend have to be the causes, cant think there would be any other point. I'm mightily peeved that I cant get to the pipework to rectify, floor's been screeded, and ufh pipes are down. And even more peeved that for some reason I trusted the eejit that laid the pipework to do a solid job. Anyway, what can one do about pipework that doesn't hold pressure? We are talking about 15-20mm drop on the mano gadget over about 10 minutes. I'd tested it multiple times yesterday afternoon isolating any joints external to the build.

I'd prime the wall with something, i used some soudal airtight paint stuff to create a non dusty surface as that's what I had laying about, then a permanent flexible mastic sealant like Orcon or something and then a cut of membrane and tape it.

I've just used united civils supplies for pipes they delivered the 6m jobbies (polypipe). Landscape plastics for bends and couplings, IC's and risers

Ebay, from an MCS installer who had done calcs wrong for a customer, looking to get some money back, so, based on that I was happy to take the risk.

Great post, thanks for raising it, must admit i was looking at my velux wondering how the hell do I deal with it. I guess something like this VELUX LSB 2000 Lining including Facings | Roofing Superstore®

Think I saw chains for drain coming off the dome roof at St George’s park. England football training ground!

Just for a bit of context, a bit of CAD... Of how the pipe run was. 2 ic's in the garden, and 1 quite literally 1 pace infront of the utility room door. and my plan, the WTP will be > 7m

I've taken to putting C studs back to back - like ][ , because I had some left over, and it was easier for me to use rather than sell on. Makes it loads more rigid! I wouldn't buy more to do this though, it was just a try it and see thing.

Ground level is going to be increased another 3 bricks - ish, so I think that makes the smaller chambers right on the edge of acceptability