crispy_wafer

I'm sure for best efficiency installers like the two to be close, however, as long as pipework is properly insulated, and depending on distance the install may need a second pump to help push the water along...

I think you need to define gubbins in a bit more detail to work out how much room you may need. My plant room (cupboard) is 1.2*1.2, will house the cylinder which is about 600mm diameter. Expansion vessels will be wall mounted, and the hot and cold water manifolds will be wall mounted high up too. Pipework will run round the perimeter. The UFH manifold are located under the stairs (centrally in the house) so just a supply and return pipe to this. MVHR is in the insulated attic space. there will be 1 Consumer unit too. The challenge is placing everything so that access and maintenance isn't too much of a challenge.

Seems like good money for a weeks work, if the land was all mine no issues with neighbouring land or local authorities land, then I'd be pricing up the ducting/materials from a civils supplier and digger hire for a week or 2 and certainly consider doing it myself. Is the terrain particularly difficult to work with? Would it be a pain in the arse job?

Was thinking about this yesterday as I was looking at my sketch and thinking about the kitchen, questioning my decision to allow one run to the kitchen, my thoughts were that it's highly unlikely that we'll be drawing water from from multiple devices concurrently. However depending on your kitchen layout it may be easier to lob another length of hep, rather than add T's and shut off valves and run it round the walls.

Done a quick search and HWAM crops up a few times, anyone with an HWAM stove still happy with their purchase? What you got? I've got the option of having something freestanding or inset mounted, I'm quite taken by the HWAM 3110, or a STUV inset. Originally fancied a Charnwood bay, but no deliveries till next year, so that's out of the question.

Sorted it, managed to break just enough screed, insulation, and block to get at the rest bend, she held it down with a bit of 4*2 whilsts I pulled the stub pipe out with some grips. The bit of pipe as per had been cut and chamferred with his stihl saw and looked like a sharks mouth. Noticed the rubber seal had a nice U shape in it where he'd pushed the pipe in. Result! Swapped the seal from another fitting, new bit of pipe. Felt like that was a bit of last chance saloon! BI round today to do an inspection then I can fill the trenches, do another quick test. Then plan out the waste treatment plant.

I suspect individually that either of the 2 smaller units will modulate down lower than the single higher capacity unit. The manufacturers bumf should reveal all.

Probably not a great idea, unless you have an alternate means of ventilation.

So, in thinking I was just about done with this lot, I thought I'd air test all the pipes it in preparation for calling the building inspector. All held pressure solidly, apart from 1 section, which just happens to be 9m of pipework under the floor, and 9m of pipework I didn't install, joint issue in the middle or joint at the rest bend have to be the causes, cant think there would be any other point. I'm mightily peeved that I cant get to the pipework to rectify, floor's been screeded, and ufh pipes are down. And even more peeved that for some reason I trusted the eejit that laid the pipework to do a solid job. Anyway, what can one do about pipework that doesn't hold pressure? We are talking about 15-20mm drop on the mano gadget over about 10 minutes. I'd tested it multiple times yesterday afternoon isolating any joints external to the build.

I'd prime the wall with something, i used some soudal airtight paint stuff to create a non dusty surface as that's what I had laying about, then a permanent flexible mastic sealant like Orcon or something and then a cut of membrane and tape it.

I've just used united civils supplies for pipes they delivered the 6m jobbies (polypipe). Landscape plastics for bends and couplings, IC's and risers

Ebay, from an MCS installer who had done calcs wrong for a customer, looking to get some money back, so, based on that I was happy to take the risk.

Great post, thanks for raising it, must admit i was looking at my velux wondering how the hell do I deal with it. I guess something like this VELUX LSB 2000 Lining including Facings | Roofing Superstore®

Think I saw chains for drain coming off the dome roof at St George’s park. England football training ground!

Just for a bit of context, a bit of CAD... Of how the pipe run was. 2 ic's in the garden, and 1 quite literally 1 pace infront of the utility room door. and my plan, the WTP will be > 7m

I've taken to putting C studs back to back - like ][ , because I had some left over, and it was easier for me to use rather than sell on. Makes it loads more rigid! I wouldn't buy more to do this though, it was just a try it and see thing.

Ground level is going to be increased another 3 bricks - ish, so I think that makes the smaller chambers right on the edge of acceptability

Nah, I see your point I think, my OCD was going into overdrive. I wanted the IC's the same distance from the wall and in line - crazy but I'm going to see it everyday, and I know it'd pee me off if they were on the p*ss

They are the 450mm ones. 1) Easier to work with from an install perspective 2) Going to be a couple of risers deep, probably 600-700mm when I've built the ground up round the build, so I felt they'd be easier to get into if I ever need to. 3) Trying to do a 'proper job', not necessarily a cheap job, so that may mean i spend a bit more and overkill it sometimes - but that's a fault of mine, and not having much previous experience/trust to call on I'd sooner go a bit further than regret it later on. I'll post up the rest of the pics tomorrow.

Added a bottle gully as a condensate drain for the ASHP, probably overkill. Will move a touch when I have worked out exact positions of the drain from the wall.

So, after making the mess, I set about running some string lines to get a feel for the new pipe runs. Mummy duck having a snack before she goes to sit on her eggs. I Installed an inspection chamber and started laying some pipework. higher powers decided that we must have some rain, and if you look closely you can see the 3 remnants of pipework that was leading under my garden to another inspection chamber. String line also in place to make sure my new ic's are inline and same distance from house.

I made a decision a while back that the pipe runs that we agreed with the builder were cack and a mistake on my part for agreeing. Issues The septic tank arrangement I found out when connecting to it was rubbish, the inlet was lower than the outlet. The pipework must back up until it finds a level, and then just self manages itself. Unfortunately the point where I needed to connect the soil pipe from the build to it was under this level - inspection chamber would be constantly full of effluent, and not really something I could live with knowing about. The builder left inspection chambers where I didnt really want them. 1, 2 steps infront of the back door was getting on my t*t's in particular... So I settled on the decision that a treatment plant will go in to deal with the waste from the new build. The placement of this necessitated some alteration of the installed pipework, so a meeting with the building inspector was arranged and new pipe runs and inspection chamber layout agreed. So following a few weeks of dry weather, I hired a .7t micro and set about digging the trenches, removing the previous pipework and generally making a mess!

Just updating as i've gone quiet on this lately, slowly accumulating parts for the install A couple of retailers have failed on the pre plumbed cylinder that I wanted, think there must have been supply chain issues, so have bought a 250l unit off ebay, as link listed in the marketplace. Costs so far. Grant 6kW Heatpump - 1280 Rubber Feet - 40 WH 250L Cylinder - 740 Primary pipework, press fit levers, press elbows, T's etc, caleffi antifreeze valves, pipe insulation, flexible pipes - 400(ish) Grant buffer/llh - 325 Grant wiring centre ep001 - 40 Grant Hot water boost kit - 70 Mag Filter - 100 Waiting for the cylinder to turn up now, so what's needed re: expansion/filling etc.

Similar here, only a single standing charge, paid 125+VAT to have the DNO put fuses in the carriers, then contacted EDF for a 3ph smart meter, they took about 4 weeks to install.

Ooh, sounds like something I could need further info on as my 3ph setup will be broadly similar. Please report any findings either way.