crispy_wafer

Just dragging this question back from the archives! Please can I clarify the approach for studding this section I put the stud wall in line with the blocks, but now I'm thinking this might not have been the correct approach, Should I have stepped the wall out by 10/15mm or so to account for the dabs on the back of the PB, that will run over the block/stud join?

Stunning,

🤣 of course, 👍

My builder laid mine, and left about inch gap around the edge where there are block walls, not sure if this is std practice or not, but has left me wondering how to fill the gap... Expanding foam just seems a bit naff, and a faff.

I'm seeking a bit of advice on how best to level a ceiling in preparation for boarding. The bit of ceiling is in our dormer, I've attached an old picture from last year showing the offending items. When measured from the laser, they are either about 3mm/7mm/12mm higher than the lowest timber cross (whasitcalled!) The area in the picture has all been insulated under, divided and stud walls added since that photo, so the main room in that area has 7 bits in total. 5 to deal with as 2 are level at the lowest point! Floor to timber is around 2330 - ish Not knowing how to deal with this properly/professionally, I started a thinking (dangerous), then consulted the google (probably even more dangerous). 1) use 3mm hardboard in multiple layers along the timbers to make up the depth and that'll do! 2) I have a load of res bar, that I could fix perpendicular, and pack out where i need to make level. 3) I have some c channel left, so lower the ceiling slightly by fixing c channel like the pic below 4) what would a pro do?

just to chime in, For bathrooms, I've been told to double up the plasterboard. Got RWA45 50mm as infill for studs. For ceilings I bought some knauf 100mm acoustic. Got a load of res bar, but, a cock up with the full size window height in the lounge means I have about 30mm of frame to play with.

I think so, my screed depth varies 10-20mm in places . The company I chose used a cemfloor product, The set up a level using mini tripods, and pump the screed in to meet the tripod level, once pumped in they mooch around with a tamping thing to ensure no air pockets, then they lightly float the top to ensure a smooth'ish finish.

Bit like this? I think 3/4 to 22mm compression elbow, then make up the loop, soldered Tee fitting and drain valve.

Hi all, In the process of battening out the Dormer for service cavitys and ensuring a nice level surface to fix the plasterboard sheets to, and somewhere to route cables should it be needed, I'm planning on running the battens from bottom to top on the inside of the truss over the insulation and VCL, do I need horizontal battens at the top, bottom, middle to give something to fix plasterboard to? The battens are approx 600 centres, some at 400, length of the board will be about 2.2m. Ta Marek

anything above dripping condensation?

For our MVHR ducts from outside I used some lengths of Domus Easipipe 2 piece insulation with cable ties.

For what it's worth, With our attic trussed room, I PIR'd from ridge to wall plate, seemed easier in my mind to detail insulation and airtightness running in straight lines from top to bottom.

Currently in discussions with a few companies about installing a multi split of a couple of slim ducted 2.5's and a wall mounted 3.5 unit for the upstairs of the build. Different companies like to align with certain manufacturers, although they can and will install others if asked, as such I've had quotes for a Hitachi based system, a Daikin system and one incoming for Mitsubishi Heavy Industries. Short of looking at and trying to fathom out the micro differences between SCOP and SEER for efficiencies, the visuals of the wall mounts, interface, and initial cost is there much else to consider? Also what brand AC do you have and what swung you towards that manufacturer?

Just looking at your diagram (I know it may differ from reality), but take care with the opposing waste connections.

Mine too is in the loft, on the hanger + a piece of 4*2 bolted to a gable wall, yet to plug it in. I have wondered about noise and resonance and then if suspending like they do with Air con units may be a better method.

Yeah, it's what I did to stop it from flopping around - Stuck to blocks. Butyl tape seems to be less tacky when cold, so I wafted a blowtorch over it just to warm it up then pressed it home.

Butyl tape will hold it in place, you may be using it to bond the dpm together anyway where it overlaps on the floor, so, a couple of blobs on the wall heated up with a blow torch then push the dpm up against it.

We/builder hired a crane, straight off the flatbed onto the wallplate for the joiners to do their stuff. Maybe missed in dialogue or smallprint, frustrating but put it down to experience.

Top tip, added them to my vendor list for price checking in future - thanks @PeterW

Until the buggers get consistent with pricing and stop trying it on, they'll get no sympathy from me. Like every business or persons, they are entitled to make a wedge, but profiteering and the taking the p**s through covid lives long in the memory.

👍 Nah, go for it. Put what you learned doing the first one to good use.

Morning all, I'm after a bit of a sanity check, or otherwise please, on the planning of an internal stack that will receive from the downstairs WC, and possibly the upstairs bathroom if my ideas pass muster. Initially the drawings incorporated an SVP arrangement to look like this. Pipework out the back, meaning I need to core hole and have pipework running externally like the picture. So sitting at my desk I started procrastinating about whether I could do this better and avoid making holes in the brickwork, or not. I think I can, but I either need a bit of reassurance, or telling to keep it simple and to plan. I have a stack coming up in the downstairs WC Stud wall. My bright idea, consisted of running this stack pipe up inside the wall then connecting a 45 3 branch to avoid the pozi joist then connect into the fall from the Toilet upstairs, I need to tap a 50 into this somewhere as well. Once past the 45 I will run the 4 inch into a void behind a cupboard for an AAV. Is it OK to have multiple bends and whatnot in the this (dry) section? I will need to fix up the studding after I have carved it all up, I'm thinking I may face and join the sections of wall with ply/OSB to reinforce. My plan to vent the stench, is to tee from the soil pipe as it runs to an IC and run a vent up the wall near the chimney breast Would this plan seem OK, or am I going to be causing issues for myself.

1.2m*1.8 ish basically just an annex off the utility with a door if seeing the cylinder ever bothers me, will only house the cylinder and manifolds for water distribution. MVHR is up in the loft because I didnt fancy mucking about with 6" pipes between the pozi's. Job, jobbed! Heatpumps will be outside.

ours was the same, however, the areas where the water was pooling /gathering was around the edges where the builder hadn't filled in. I know I live in an area that has quite a variable water level, due to slow draining ground more than anything. I figured the water ingress was seepin in between or through the trench blocks and via the openings that had been created for the service ducts etc. I spent a weekend lifting the blocks on the b&b floor, then on the tractor loading wheelbarrows whilst the missus and boy spread MOT under the beams (Looks bloody good, and when I had to go tunneling for a lost hammer, i didnt come out covered in mud, so that was a bonus). The builder thought I was mad for doing so quite honestly, they dont tend to bother with these details. It looks a lot better, and for the sake of a few hundred pounds worth doing and justified in my mind. I've also put in some drainage around the property about 10m away or so from the build over the last year or so, basically 4ft deep trenches wrapped and filled with 4-6" limestone chunks leading off to a drainage ditch. Just to give the water somewhere to go. Logically once your DPC, and DPM is down your habitable area is a damp proof box, and going about things as slowly as I have, I've seen the seasons pass, dry and wet alike and not seen or noticed any issues. All is good, and I have no worries. These was taken after a wet spell, albeit we had no walls or roof at the time, so it was likely to puddle... Lifted them blocks more times than I care to remember.

Hey, yes... I saw your thread, so I'll reply there for you.