Wil

That must have been a brown-trousers moment.

No expert by any means, but if you have separate supply pipes to each zone, I'd valve them separately. I'd put the ZVs near the buffer and the rest of the wiring. If each manifold could call heat individually, they all need to be linked to the same central ZV or each have their own. Not seen NRVs on UFH loops as when the actuator is closed, no flow can happen in that loop?

Watching with interest as I'm currently deciding between 28mm copper and 28mm plastic for my approx 20m run from the monoblock to the buffer position. Mine's for 26kW with a min flow of 2.5m^3/hr or 42lt/min...

I've got a UDM pro, a small 8 port (4POE) switch doing the 4x Unifi APs in the house and then two single CAT6 (more fool me) links to the sheds with cheap TPlink switches (I had lying around) hanging off. These switches each have another Unifi AP each plus 2-3 cameras. All Cameras flowing back to a hikvision NVR near the UDM pro (also a single network link- cameras in the house are fed direct from the POE NVR where possible). The links are vulnerable as they're singles, but they're absolutely never overloaded. I do keep all Wifi home automation, cameras and Shelly stuff on a separate VLAN and the UDM pro is barely breaking a sweat. I'm really not using it to it's max as a NVR or IP phone solution... VPN direct to the UDMP gives my remote kit the impression of being on the home network for viewing.

Thanks, is there any impact from this on means of insulating the walls internally?

Interesting development in that I appear not to have dot and dab at all. I thought the hollow sections indicated dot and dab, but it appears I have solid plaster direct onto the stonework. Possibly with a thin skim coat of more modern plaster on top. I bashed 7 bells out of a wall I'm going to drop anyway and it was fairly old plaster attached. I could potentially take other walls back too, but stripping all the internal walls back and re-insulating is a 'move out and live in the chicken shed type job'... Does this change things in terms of removing existing though? Would that count as my parge coat in Marc's list above and I can then DnD EPS directly onto this? The plaster appears to be up to an inch thick in places, no current signs of any condensation issues etc and I'd hopefully continue to avoid these! I've attached a couple of photos showing some of the buildups where I've got back to stonework in case they're of any use...

Phew, I thought you were saying Octopus had gone bust... they still appear to be trading at least!

I had a couple of ASHP quotes in East Mids (near Kettering). Ended up going with Cool Energy and 2 of their big units and am self-installing with a plumber. Will let you know how it goes. The others wanted about 10-12k on top of the parts to install which made it a non-starter. I only wanted a GSHP in the first place ? There is still an option there to get the RHI which is the only way to make it (close to) worthwhile...

Ok, I can't actually be any use here, but I'm fascinated to know what goes in the room marked 'animals'? It's an interesting (but apt) description of some children...

Or you get caught by a comment from the conservation officer on the 30th August (last day when consultation closed) demanding a bat survey (min 6 weeks apparently) which can only happen between May and September. There's a full year delay for you sir, enjoy... not speaking from bitter experience at all...

Mark- hah! that sounds pretty epic. And messy. How does one fix things to the walls- will the EPS take a fixing for pictures etc? AliG- I meant the first floor suspended floor void, but yes, wher eI have a suspended ground floor, I'll also be taking up and insulating under/ between.

Octopus did raise their variable rate prices yesterday sadly. Mostly on the night rate of my E7 tariff. now getting 20.6p/14.7p ? Standing chaarge up 1.8p too...

Yeh, I thought the 'right way' to do this was to go for metal (or timber) studs filled with insulation, then a VCL, then PB then skim (in order wall to room). But if I can 'get away with just gluing insulated plasterboard on, that might well be easier. Still going to be about 100mm minus the depth of my existing dot and dab out of the room all the way around though ? I can feel the breeze moving around in some spaces and particularly floor voids when the wind blows, so under no illusions that it's air-tight behind! Would there be any benefit to me going with insulated lime plasters directly onto the stone walls (internally) to avoid condensation issues? Does the insulated PB then need skimmed as well?

Hah, you lucky thing, I'm about a gnat's hair from pulling the trigger on one myself.. Just need to find someone to help me install it!

Thanks both. External is definitely out thanks to the looks of the place, so internal my only option. Just going to be another horrific job to strip it out and then stud walls inside around a 300m2 place with lots of fireplaces etc. Is there nothing that can be done over the top? If the air movement behind can be dealt with? Thanks

Holy thread resurrection... If I had an old house full of dot and dab standard plasterboard onto solid stone walls, how would I go about improving the insulation? Do I have to tear all the dot and dab off and start again? It's all in good condition so would seem a waste. I could drill the holes at head and foot of each wall and go nuts with the spray foam (form gun or the nozzle type cans?) but this would only stop air movement behind rather than improving insulation. Can I insulate direct on top of the existing dot and dab plasterboard? Thanks!

Hire place offered one when I was hiring a few years back. no extra charge.

ooops replied waaaay too late, glad you're sorted...

Political minefield and bit of a stretch to put £1000-£1500 a year onto people's bills. Most here would probably cope, but what about those already in fuel poverty?

Build. More. Nukes. Although there is the minor possibility that when the nutters get hold of them, that population decrease argument will take care of itself.

Have the double doors and make sure the hinges go all the way back to open 180deg. We had a lovely unit like this in our last place without the plinth. Will probably do the same once we get round to the utility here.

That would be nice, if you find one, let me know. MCS requires some fairly stringent (but not complex) design which the company would have to take responsibility for you having done. I've found so far that even submitting all the paperwork myself and having a friendly MCS number to use, it's an absolute minefield for warranties etc.

But Humans emit heat? We plan cooling in commercial buildings based on heat load from people and equipment? We tend to heat up again through exothermic muscle usage? Why does this differ from UFH? In a 'sealed box' without external air transfer, both systems would perform identically. The radiant floor has the advantage of being able to feel it in bare feet, but the time to heat the room would be identical no? Because both systems are effectively heating surfaces which then heat the air? Both systems will induce the cool air to fall past the warmed air giving an overall similar effect? Or would RCH cause some sort of layering of the air in temperature bands so the warmth never got down to the bottom? Are we basically saying cooling from ceiling = good, heating from floor = good because all it's doing is displacing air anyway?

Well, that would do it. So the surface temperature of my roof would need to be 100degC to achieve 800W/m2 if my room surfaces were at freezing? This somewhat belies the fact that my 1800W electric radiant heater used to heat me in my shed pretty happily. Does this mean those units outside pubs are at 200degC on the surface or something?

Tell you why it's not a good idea or tell you how I get on? It's just a sparkly idea to avoid having 3 radiators in the room at the moment... far from the reality of being installed. Just wanted to know if anyone was using a radiant wall/ ceiling as it seems to be done a bit more on the continent. The fact no-one else is daft enough to do it suggests they know something I don't... perhaps it's better for cooling only.