Wil

Thanks John. My system is a mix of both, so will leave alone for now 🙂

@dpmillerWhat do the PID settings do? I get the overshoot/ start range but haven’t fiddled with PID??

I’ve got 2 3ph ASHPs. Cables not particularly chunky as they’re running at less than 20A as the power is split across the phases. That was my main driver to keep the loads spread on my connection and avoid a huge peak consumption on a single phase which would exceed my 60A fuses. Yes they’re big. They’re 15m away from the house behind an outbuilding so noise isn’t an issue. Pipe runs were annoying but are what they are. 300m2 and seem to run at about 5kW heat loss at 3degrees outside temp. House is a bit of a frankensteins monster of new bit, well insulated and old bit not so much.

Yes, have one as the only source of heat in our en-suite. Initial switch from totally cold is approx 1 minute to feel the heat (mounted at ceiling level). It's on a 15minute timer and if it's triggered repeatedly it feels warm quickly. Not much use for a quick pee, but sitting down or having a shower gives it plenty of time to warm up. It'd be better if mounted on a wall as a mirror as the heat would be right next to you.

IR heaters in small en-suites work well. Particularly paired with a motion sensor for extract boost/hot water re-circ/ towel rail heating etc. You can get them as mirrored panels so you can admire yourself as you toast…

Very subjective. I have some 240V strips for outside which look good but are way too bright and need dimmed so end up with a box anyway. It can be quite remote though. Internally I’ve gone all 24V. Kitchens/ bathrooms etc so seemed ‘safer’ with a remote T/X. Think each situation will need assessed. For the love of god, get COB strips so you don’t get ‘dots’ of light (unless that’s your look….)

This can be done depending on the car- our tesla is recognised so we get IOG despite the standard dumb 7kW charger. Check the compatible car list 👍

Use PIR (or mmWave) in the bathrooms to switch the recirc pump? On only when room in use.

Are you having MVHR? Best to have the downdraft re-circulate into the island via carbon filters and do your air removal through the nice efficient MVHR if a new extension. definitely don’t want kitchen grease building up in a void under the floor. Where does the air go if you shove it into the void? If you do duct to outside put a good non-return flap on it- Our friends have a permanent towel over their hob when not in use.

The connectors on my CE unit burnt too causing all sorts of fun (including a RTB). Upgraded connectors solved all woes.

Hah, my builder’s plumber managed this on our recent UFH install too. Fortunately a quick swap because of his other poor work. You do worry about some trades… At least it’s an easy fix 👍

Yep, pretty much exactly that! Sort of limits furniture placement too.

I’ve always wondered about this DIY approach with the routered boards on the wall and plaster over UFH pipes. Not quite been brave enough to try it at my place though 😞

Ah sorry, misunderstood the question. I spent ages looking at the pin config for the cat5 because my 26 came without the pre-wired RJ45 connectors. I’ll have to go back and look again. I’ve honestly only briefly run them in cooling as far as the buffer as my internal pipework isn’t properly insulated. Look forward to the day I can actually run them for cooling!

@Bramco If you’re just looking for how to turn off HW and run in heating or cooling only- need to set the Carel controller to OFF first then under ‘user controls’ you can cycle through the options. Stumped me for a bit that it had to be OFF. For the wiring, mine was a simple RJ45 between indoor and outdoor. I can talk you through connections with pictures if needed.

I ended up boosting the immersion for an hour with my final 4.30-5.30am cheap rate to make sure there’s always enough for the morning showers. Couldn’t get the time settings to reliably boost the heat.

@NickfromwalesThank you, I’ll insist he changes it.

Yep, it certainly makes the meter spin when it all runs together. Ah yes, only one can ever do the DHW, currently the 18. I would aim to drop the 26 altogether in the future. In the CE diagram 18 is on the left and 26 on the right. The intent of the proposed was to allow them to run in parallel for heating and one for DHW but that’s not what is shows! I’ve read in the other threads about removing buffers and using volume of system (my house is plenty cold enough there’s valves open). But specifically at the moment is is the pumped UFH system the correct approach? Can I simplify as per JohnMo’s example or is the current setup optimal in terms of feed.

@JohnMoThey’ve been installed per top scribble for 3 years. I appreciate the ridiculous oversizing but I have another project this 26unit will move to once I finish the upgrades to the main house and can prove just the 18 copes. this is the ASHP setup as per CE:

I’ve got an 18 and a 26 in a weird parallel situation (blame Cool Energy for the upsell!) I’m hoping to get to just the 18, but it does defrost a lot and the 26 helps carry through those moments.

@Nickfromwales see scribbles below. Current above, planned below. The idea is I could eventually drop the oil and the 26kW ASHP but they’re there anyway so might as well use them.

A pretty terrible scribble, give me a few mins to tidy it up!

@Nickfromwales Thank you. If it was just an ASHP, would it be acceptable to have no control? Is there any point in the 4 port and pump? Why not just run it as a big radiator?

First of all- HOLY THREAD RESSURECTION! But hoping @Nickfromwales might be able to confirm if the advice above has been superseded- The builder’s plumber turned up, saw an ASHP and looked no further. He then supplied a manifold with a pump and no mixing valve- just some sort of fixed 4 way and a pump. I have the ability to run the oil boiler in to the heating circuit and the Buffer tank has an immersion in it- so I would consider a TMV still required. He just keeps saying ‘it’s fine for an ASHP’ - is it ever fine to not have a TMV?

Ah yes, I missed the sqft, not sqm. Still 512m2 is pretty damn impressive! Unless you can get a large scale turbine PV will outperform it- I have a 1kWp unit and on its best day ever it managed 2kWh of generation often the daily is nothing or a few tens of Wh. The 5kWp PV regularly outputs 20-25kWh peaking at 35kWh in a day. The turbine isn’t ideally sited, but you’d need planning permission for a full tower and a much bigger unit to get a decent output. I’d have to say the PV looked better at that point.