Wil

A tank stat on your thermal store (close to the bottom so you're constantly topping up given it's 'free') could call for heat, the two port valve would open, when opened, it's limit switch would turn the pump on and your domestic cylinder would top up. You could make it even simpler and run your TS permanently- forget the valve and treat it as a heat sink from the 2000l store. put the TS in series with your dump load, so all heat runs through the TS on it's way to being dumped. You'd need some isolation valves for maintenance and need a bypass for when the cylinder was 'at temp' although it will never go above 70 if the temp of the water leaving the 2000l is 74. Effectively you're just treating your 2000l as a boiler which runs at a constant 74 and need a plumber to sort you out a thermal store that can use it. Depending on how hard you use DHW/ heating (you say little above) then the 2.8kW 'recovery' of the main tank shouldn't be an issue.

I bought a blackview phone with IR built in to it. It's actually really good and far better than the tiny low-res dedicated jobs that seem to be at the lower price range...

If you want a turn-key design and specs for someone to cost/ build from, you'll need an MEP consultant with relevant experience. Often the fees are such that this doesn't stack up on a domestic scale and each trade is left to tell you 'what they think is best' an you or the builder try and coordinate it all together. Things like MVHR and UFH design are often designed by the supplier anyway so you could cut out the middle man and go direct to them for that. Plumbing is rarely designed to install level on domestic jobs- more where the outlets are and let the trade get on with joining the dots. Lights and sockets are often agreed (by you) with the architect and left to the sparky to string together. The key is remembering all the things that need power supplies! I don't honestly know any domestic scale consultants but they must exist. Look for smaller firms where engineers have set up on their own after leaving one of the 'big' consultancies. Unless your build is in the multiple £M range in which case go straight to one of the big boys. Can't your architect recommend someone they've worked with?

Surely it's simpler than this- I've looked into this on a commercial scale but it never made sense. If you have the HW 'for free' already then the coil through a thermal store makes a lot of sense. Just have a 2 port valve and pump that cicrculate water from the 2000L reservoir through your HW cyclinder/ thermal store coil. When your cylinder/ thermal store is satisfied, close the 2port valve and turn off pump. Then the 2000l reservoir continues on it's current merry cycle exactly as is? No need to introduce an additional radiator dump unless your reservoir is currently overheating? It must be dumping the heat somewhere (air cooled rad as above?) so can continue to do that once you've had your take off it? Take you UFH/ heating from the thermal store tappings and the DHW from a plate heat or a second internal coil in the TS?

The protective device (MCB in the CU) is protecting that dedicated cable and the inverter in the case of fault. Hence the supply is FROM the CU to the PV isolator whichever way the electrons are flowing. Think of it as all roads lead from London, despite being able to drive the other way and get there. When my PV isn't generating I see a tiny (2W) demand on my PV circuit which may just be noise or could be considered the parasitic load of the inverter. Hence when the PV is not producing power, that dedicated circuit is consuming a tiny amount of power from the mains. The 'dedicated' in solar circuits means 'only for the PV connection' not 'electrically separate' as others have explained above. You definitely still get first dibs on the energy produced before the excess gets exported. Now sit back and be smug about your FIT, some of us aren't so lucky! ?

That must have been a brown-trousers moment.

No expert by any means, but if you have separate supply pipes to each zone, I'd valve them separately. I'd put the ZVs near the buffer and the rest of the wiring. If each manifold could call heat individually, they all need to be linked to the same central ZV or each have their own. Not seen NRVs on UFH loops as when the actuator is closed, no flow can happen in that loop?

Watching with interest as I'm currently deciding between 28mm copper and 28mm plastic for my approx 20m run from the monoblock to the buffer position. Mine's for 26kW with a min flow of 2.5m^3/hr or 42lt/min...

I've got a UDM pro, a small 8 port (4POE) switch doing the 4x Unifi APs in the house and then two single CAT6 (more fool me) links to the sheds with cheap TPlink switches (I had lying around) hanging off. These switches each have another Unifi AP each plus 2-3 cameras. All Cameras flowing back to a hikvision NVR near the UDM pro (also a single network link- cameras in the house are fed direct from the POE NVR where possible). The links are vulnerable as they're singles, but they're absolutely never overloaded. I do keep all Wifi home automation, cameras and Shelly stuff on a separate VLAN and the UDM pro is barely breaking a sweat. I'm really not using it to it's max as a NVR or IP phone solution... VPN direct to the UDMP gives my remote kit the impression of being on the home network for viewing.

Thanks, is there any impact from this on means of insulating the walls internally?

Interesting development in that I appear not to have dot and dab at all. I thought the hollow sections indicated dot and dab, but it appears I have solid plaster direct onto the stonework. Possibly with a thin skim coat of more modern plaster on top. I bashed 7 bells out of a wall I'm going to drop anyway and it was fairly old plaster attached. I could potentially take other walls back too, but stripping all the internal walls back and re-insulating is a 'move out and live in the chicken shed type job'... Does this change things in terms of removing existing though? Would that count as my parge coat in Marc's list above and I can then DnD EPS directly onto this? The plaster appears to be up to an inch thick in places, no current signs of any condensation issues etc and I'd hopefully continue to avoid these! I've attached a couple of photos showing some of the buildups where I've got back to stonework in case they're of any use...

Phew, I thought you were saying Octopus had gone bust... they still appear to be trading at least!

I had a couple of ASHP quotes in East Mids (near Kettering). Ended up going with Cool Energy and 2 of their big units and am self-installing with a plumber. Will let you know how it goes. The others wanted about 10-12k on top of the parts to install which made it a non-starter. I only wanted a GSHP in the first place ? There is still an option there to get the RHI which is the only way to make it (close to) worthwhile...

Ok, I can't actually be any use here, but I'm fascinated to know what goes in the room marked 'animals'? It's an interesting (but apt) description of some children...

Or you get caught by a comment from the conservation officer on the 30th August (last day when consultation closed) demanding a bat survey (min 6 weeks apparently) which can only happen between May and September. There's a full year delay for you sir, enjoy... not speaking from bitter experience at all...

Mark- hah! that sounds pretty epic. And messy. How does one fix things to the walls- will the EPS take a fixing for pictures etc? AliG- I meant the first floor suspended floor void, but yes, wher eI have a suspended ground floor, I'll also be taking up and insulating under/ between.

Octopus did raise their variable rate prices yesterday sadly. Mostly on the night rate of my E7 tariff. now getting 20.6p/14.7p ? Standing chaarge up 1.8p too...

Yeh, I thought the 'right way' to do this was to go for metal (or timber) studs filled with insulation, then a VCL, then PB then skim (in order wall to room). But if I can 'get away with just gluing insulated plasterboard on, that might well be easier. Still going to be about 100mm minus the depth of my existing dot and dab out of the room all the way around though ? I can feel the breeze moving around in some spaces and particularly floor voids when the wind blows, so under no illusions that it's air-tight behind! Would there be any benefit to me going with insulated lime plasters directly onto the stone walls (internally) to avoid condensation issues? Does the insulated PB then need skimmed as well?

Hah, you lucky thing, I'm about a gnat's hair from pulling the trigger on one myself.. Just need to find someone to help me install it!

Thanks both. External is definitely out thanks to the looks of the place, so internal my only option. Just going to be another horrific job to strip it out and then stud walls inside around a 300m2 place with lots of fireplaces etc. Is there nothing that can be done over the top? If the air movement behind can be dealt with? Thanks

Holy thread resurrection... If I had an old house full of dot and dab standard plasterboard onto solid stone walls, how would I go about improving the insulation? Do I have to tear all the dot and dab off and start again? It's all in good condition so would seem a waste. I could drill the holes at head and foot of each wall and go nuts with the spray foam (form gun or the nozzle type cans?) but this would only stop air movement behind rather than improving insulation. Can I insulate direct on top of the existing dot and dab plasterboard? Thanks!

Hire place offered one when I was hiring a few years back. no extra charge.

ooops replied waaaay too late, glad you're sorted...

Political minefield and bit of a stretch to put £1000-£1500 a year onto people's bills. Most here would probably cope, but what about those already in fuel poverty?

Build. More. Nukes. Although there is the minor possibility that when the nutters get hold of them, that population decrease argument will take care of itself.