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bassanclan

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  1. bassanclan
    Thanks for the update. It's definitely something that I will use based on that. I've got 330sqm of render which I want to put a clear coat on and acres of internal plaster to paint. It's just a case of whether I can get hold of one at the right price second hand or hire one. How is coverage compared to roller etc? Do you waste a lot in cleaning etc?
  2. bassanclan
    I used to have a business mowing lawns, cemeteries, parks etc and I would always choose Honda over b&s. Honda Izy is a good shout, if you are looking 2nd hand look at Etesia, they pick up the grass even when wet. I paid £750 for an 18" Etesia mower with the same Honda engine in a £200-£300, but it was the best investment ever. 2nd hand they can be had for £2-300. You can get 2stroke self propelled mowers which are good for steep banks etc
  3. bassanclan
    If there was a days worth of grouting then you would wait, but on a small job, such as this must be I'd get the grout on first thing in the morning, cleaned up and touch dry to be siliconed in the afternoon. I'd not want to have to go back for another half day, nor keep the customer without a bath for that extra day.
  4. bassanclan
    They also do a 7.5sqm kit of that aquaseal, which works out cheaper per sqm
  5. bassanclan
    What would happen if you got rid of ensuite 'C' to make the master bedroom larger/walk in wardrobe and made bathroom 'B' into two en suites?
  6. bassanclan
    Forget chipboard, bodgit and scarper wouldn't use that in a bathroom. The difference in price of 18mm OSB and 25mm wbp ply is probably £15 a sheet (8'x4') cement board will be more work (as its 2 lots of glue and screws) and money, marine ply more money again, but less labour
  7. bassanclan
    I assume you are putting porcelain/stone tiles on the floor. In which case surely some wbp plywood (or whatever it is called nowadays) would be ideal for the job. Or Marine ply if you want it to be bombproof, belt and braces. You can get 22mm ply, but will take a lot of phoning round and probably cost more than 25mm which is widely available. You might even appreciate the 3mm when you come to fix the wetroom former in to place
  8. bassanclan
    What about payment by debit card? You can use Visa chargeback, although not a legal right they do offer protection
  9. bassanclan
    An esbe valve is included in the quote. This sort of thing... http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_burning_stoves/ESBE-LTC-load-units.html (not a recommendation of the product or retailer btw) My concern is the noise of the pump in a living room and locating it in a already tight fireplace opening. No schematic was provided and all schematics I have seen put the loading valve near the thermal store/tank as I imagine the insulation around such valves is flammable to some extent.
  10. bassanclan
    So I got a quote from a local Hetas registered shop, supply and fit Dunsley Yorkshire boiler stove, flue, loading valves, controls, 750l thermal store & external exhanger...£18500+vat!!! One thing which is mentioned in the quote is the pump for the boiler stove needs to be within 1m of the stove, but I can't see that in any regs. Can anyone help me out with that? I got a quote from Mark at Newark cylinders which I'm happy with so thinking of going down the route of getting all the gear, doing the manual labour etc and finding a hetas plumber on a day rate for the important parts, or just getting building control to sign it off.
  11. bassanclan
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hudson-Reed-Prophecy-2-RRP-199-Shower-Panel-Black-/162565727080?hash=item25d9ac2368:g:ZckAAOSwN2VZT8e1 Something fancy for SWMBO and easy fitting, but only suitable for larger shower cubicles
  12. bassanclan
    3m is way too small for a double door, why not make it 5m?
  13. bassanclan
    No need to leave time in between grouting and sealing, you can do both on the same day.
  14. bassanclan
    Are you sure that a replacement shower valve is going to solve the problem? "Piddly" suggests a lack of flow, which might not be solved by a new shower valve. If demolition is an actual prospect why not get something good and use it in the "new house"
  15. bassanclan
    Double, large door is surely much easier all round. If you are worried about parking cars side by side, then paint a couple of lines. Think supermarket car park. Single doors just restricts your options. What happens when you get a Rolls Royce? You'll never get it through a single door.
  16. bassanclan
    I'm not sure of the construction method, but if it is a brick/block build with a cavity, you could put a catnic lintel/ single skin L shaped lintel OVER the granite, meaning the load is not on the granite lintel and say a concrete lintel on the inside skin.
  17. bassanclan
    Ideally you would tile directly onto the plasterboard (no skim). Paint means you are sticking tiles to paint, to skim, to plasterboard. Do you know what sort of tiles you are having? If you have chosen something like 20mm natural stone, you might want to think again!
  18. bassanclan
    Have you considered using imitation slate or does it have to be the real thing?
  19. bassanclan
    It is more of a pain with 600 centres, rather than say 400 centres, but the savings on 50% less trusses should more than make up for the extra time.
  20. bassanclan
    It has to be B
  21. bassanclan
    I chalked it on, but there's no substitute for being there walking round making sure everything is happening as you expect it to
  22. bassanclan
    I like MacPherson's paint. Its better than most, but not as good as the likes of Dulux trade, but half the price!
  23. bassanclan
    Whoever fits the plasterboard surely has to cut out the holes for the back boxes etc. I can't see why they wouldn't. The only exception might be lighting where there is access to the area above (e.g. loft) or lighting where there are hole cutouts
  24. bassanclan
    Tile bumper or bumpa is like a conveyer belt to carry tiles up/down. Let your builder arrange the scaffold, then there can be no disputes and he will get exactly what he wants. If the extension is only over the garage I would suggest it would be worth your while just emptying the garage and letting the rain get in rather than wasting time and money with a temporary roof. Now would be time for a good clear out!
  25. bassanclan
    Could a sharper holesaw have saved your drills?
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