bassanclan

Yes that integral waterproofer will do the job, or for 3p less with the admix included https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p29048?table=no

I wasn't saying use PVA, rather waterproofer & admix rather than SBR, then you will get a workable waterproof mix

Why are you using SBR in the mix instead of integral waterproofer e.g Sika 1? SBR in the mix will not be guaranteed to be 100% waterproof, it will be very difficult to trowel unless you add admix too and needs very hard mixing eg paddle mixer (more vigourous than a cement mixer) otherwuse you may get the SBR floating to the top of the concrete.

Yes if only to stop the concrete drying too quickly along the joint and therefore reduce the possibility of cracking. Are you sure about that mix though?

I would be minded to forget the basement and see if some non invasive foundations would be possible. Piling? Raft? Then you can work out the extra cost of hazardous waste against the extra cost of different foundations

Nice job, but was it a footballer's wife?

+1 to the Fischer FIS V 360. Ithe is my preferred chem anchor and agree the 2 part is better. Just check when you are buying if it is W for winter - which is fine if you are using it now, but not ideal if you are keeping it to use for a few months. If you are buying from a builder's merchant ask for a couple of spare nozzles, they should give you them free for regular customers, otherwise they are cheap enough from Toolstation etc

Apologies for doctoring your images The objections from the council are basically design and size. You could initally apply for the 2nd storey (ontop of the existing footprint) as attached. It may be that you don't need to make the full application, you may be able to seek pre-application advice and get this principle agreed to (but I would only do the pre-app if it was free). A rear two storey extension of 3m is within permitted development (assuming the house was built originally with a room in the roof) (although the shape of your existing roof would make that impractical). So you would then have to make a second application to get that. Not withstanding that, you still have the issue of design to overcome. The inital impression of the front elevation is something which looks like some of the 60s/70s gable ended houses. I personally am not a fan of very modern looking houses, but would a roof design such as this be of interest? https://www.scosarg.com/mobi-one-timber-frame-house-machine (see picture below the machinery) I'm sure the planners would rather you designed something either very clearly modern, or something in keeping with the 50s type of property you already have, or even something very "period".

Regarding the 80% 90% thing I said, have you got a plan and/or elevations of the existing? The white double gable is less bulky than the single gable you have proposed, you're essentially filling in a diamond between the two gable ends.

http://www.changeplan.co.uk/u_value_calculator.php

I would have thought as a self build/extension you should get exemption from CIL by filling out the relevant forms https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200126/applications/70/community_infrastructure_levy/4 Your design has a large gable end as the principal elevation, which the planners evidently think is not in keeping with the surrounding houses, the new design isn't that much different. I think the fact that the side elevation of a nearby house has a gable end is not going to form part of the planners considerations. I'm not sure if there are houses on the street with a similar front elevation to that attached, but if not then your design is not in keeping. I think the aesthetics have to play a bigger part in your thinking, you will see the house as you drive up to it and away from it every day and should be something pleasing rather than just functional. At some point as well you will have to sell the house and any buyer's first glance will the photo of the front elevation. Are you planning to convert the attic space to bedrooms etc at a later date, or is it simply storage? In your situation you have to take a pragmatic view. You are unlikely to get 100% of what you want, but you could apply for 80% of what you want, then make a minor ammendment or permitted development to get 90% Are you steadfast that it has to eb an extension rather than a knock down and rebuild, as you will not get the VAT benefit nor the benefit of better lower storey contruction. This would also free you up from the exisiting floorplan and allow you to design something more exciting.

I still think you are going to struggle with that design, based in the previous refusal. I'm not 100% sold on the value of and aesthetic's of the front gable design. If you redesigned the roof similar to the attached, (you could even remove the hips on the main roof if you wanted) then you could avoid the downpipe by the front door.

...because you are obviously hurrying with this project and need the extra time saving of rapid set...

What would happen if the threaded bar was not removed and simply cut flush with the surfacw of the wall?

What about the Volvo V90 - about half of the range will be within budget. There is a new V60 coming out soon which is only 100mm shorter. A bit more "budget" but the Mondeo estate is surprisingly spacious

Its a shame to use a £40k car to transport doors etc around. The delivery fee or van hire fee for doors etc will be a lot less than the loss in value of the car from a scratch or minor damage when loading/unloading. I have a van and a car, my van was off the road for a month or so and regret not hiring/borrowing a van for that month due to the damage done to my car.

I would reconsider the tiles. To get a good job will be a lot of work and then you'll wish you had put in undertile heating, then you'll want the suite replaced! I would seriously look into a good quality tile effect floor, which will look just as good and be many times quicker to lay.

Or take down the cling which has been over boarded and reboard it? You could try removing one layer of plasterboard, but the chances are you'll need two Then you will definitely get a seamless finish

Thanks, it looks like they have changed the scene/mood selector, but the end result is the same. Cheapest I have seen is on energylightbulbs.co.uk 4g switch 103.99 inc vat Controller 27.58 inc vat

So I had a call from a lady at Casambi and she has said a rough price will be £40 per luminaire, so for 20 odd lights it would be £800. Compared to a similar solution at around £400 from lightwaveRF. Casambi use bluetooth rather than radio communications, but I think for that saving I can live with it!

Yes I think that is what I am looking for. I spoke to someone at Lightwave and one mood controller can speak to different light switches, so the mood controller (now called scene selector) could operate all seven sets of lights. The costs seem reasonable, around £130 for a 4 gang dimmer switch, £35 for a scene selector so for me it would be £295. With the option to add the link for £100 to add phone control and automation if required. I have contacted Casambi too to find out more information and get prices, but on the face of it the Lightwave looks very simple

I'm pretty sure they do make a 40mm solvent stop end. I will have a look if it exists tomorrow.

That Fibaro hub looks a bit complex for just a lighting solution. The Ikea system seems to restrict you to using their light bulbs. I thought about wiring where the control over unit would go, but I don't know exactly what I need etc and assumed that a solution would work in a similar way to the lightwave system, with wireless switches etc. By 4 circuits I meant the lightwave do a maximum 4gang switch and I want to be able to operate 7 lights in one room with one controller

I have an open plan kitchen/sitting/dining area. There are seven lighting circuits proposed: 1. Light over dining table area 2. Light over sitting area 3. Downlights in cooking area of kitchen 4. Under cabinet lights 5. Over cabinet led strip light 6. Over 'false celing' strip light 7. Plinth led strip light It has been first fixed, with the wires for switches coming to the usual place for a lightswitches, just as you go in through the door. I want to have switches to put different moods etc A: ON/OFF all lights B: Mood One: Cooking E.g. Downlights in cooking area 100% C: Mood Two: Eating, e.gLight over dining area 100%, lights in the kitchen area dimmed by 75% etc D: Mood Three: Sitting, lights in the dining area dimmed 50% lights in the kitchen area dimmed 50% I looked at the lightwave RF products which seem reasonably priced, but they seem to only have a max of 4 circuits. I have no prior knowlege of these sort of controls. Any pointers?

I would check the wording in the deeds of your house. It may detail the access more specifically. Alternatively I would measure the width of the existing alley and then take it from there