bassanclan

yes, you have to tile unless you are having the built in type solar panels.

Local handyman might help, in the short term. Although he might charge a bit more than a labourer per hour he might be more useful

10mm mortar 215 block 10mm mortar 65mm brick =310mm which is too thick You mentioned doubling up to 200mm thick walls, laying blocks flat solves that problem. I personally would not use aerated blocks underground, nor if a wall was being rendered. I don't much like them for fitting kitchen wall cupboards to, but they are ok. Lightweight obviously have better insulation properties than denser blocks

Looks good. why did you choose that pipe layout? Generally going in ever decreasing circles is better for temperature evenness and less tight bends on the pipe

You want some concrete coursing bricks. They are the same size as bricks, but made of the same material as your concrete blocks. Alternatively use engineering bricks, which are generally a bit cheaper. 10mm mortar block laid flat 10mm mortar block laid flat 10mm mortar 65mm brick = 285mm with no cutting

If you are at the design stage it makes sense to design out the need to go through the steel, rather than paying for SE calcs, complicated steelwork etc

F

Rapid set is not going to be any good for you, you want "extended open time" so you have plenty of faffing time! Mapei keraflex

I found this old photo showing how you can use metal tile trim to run a line around the whole room, breaking up the tiles and giving you an extra few mm

If you use the right hand layout of tiles, how they work out in the pocket shelf? There might be some fussy slivers there, but otherwise it looks good. A border tile or listello trim all round thing might help you to get rid of that tiny sliver if you prefer the left hand layout

You also don't know what other minor changes you might decide on part way through the build, so all in all it's probably worth waiting until the end (if necessary at all)

There is no point setting an arbitrary line round, then starting tiling and finding you need a 50mm sliver to finish at the top/bottom when you could have simply moved the line up/down 50mm at the planning stage. Why mark a line then paint tanking liquid over it, you won't see it!?

On the basis of that description I will be an NMA. It will be one fee per application, so get all amendments on one new drawing. However, you could chance your arm and build it without a NMA, the worst case scenario being the council notice it at sign off and make you apply for an NMA

Just to reiterate what everyone else has said, basically so sorry that its happened, but thank goodness you found out now. The lesson has to be NOT "I must do everything myself" but "I MUST make sure everything is done how I want" because you will not be able to do everything. Don't be afraid of hovering over, asking questions, checking specs, monitoring every thing that is done how you expect it. etc Good luck moving forward

I wonder why the boards are moving. Surely there is always going to be a problem with expansion and contraction in the heat/cold. Why are the boards "wrong"

Our Candy washing machine is shallower than a standard washing machine, but still a decent size. It means it fits behind a standard depth kitchen cupboard, so is hidden behind doors but much cheaper than an integrated washing machine

I think the only thing which might hold up the decision is the financial situation. I don't know how far ahead you are with payments and the likelihood of getting that back, but if you can afford to write it off then go for it, otherwise you're going to end up getting surveyors to assess the value of work done etc when it might be easier to hound the existing builder to come back until they have done enough work to bring the work up to date with the money paid.

No idea what those 50mm blocks are there for? I would ditch the 50mm blocks Make the cavity a little wider and just use standard 100 (102/105mm??) bricks.

You'll probably find the track mentioned by @PeterW useful then. Don't delay in labelling your pipes and obviously keep them together.

How wide is the clks? How wide is your manifold when fully constructed? Personally I would dig up the slab in the clks and put the manifold on the wall at the bottom of your diagram, this would make the clks congested/overheated, but probably better that than an internal wc. Also I would not worry about going to the extra effort of a wall hung wc (unless you want one) just glue it down with a good bead of silicone/ct1 etc and it won't go anywhere.

I've used one before, but there's no way you could bend it so close, you'd have to put a soldered elbow on, or solder a separate bend you made with a straight coupler

I'm going to go for it if there are any left by the weekend. I will let you know how I go, I'm not 100% sold on corded, but the DeWalt one I want is too much to justify

It sounds like the ideal situation for decking!

I've got to be honest I think this is a bad idea. This would cut through the mesh which stops the render cracking, even if it was patched up it would not be ideal. I don't think you would get the render off without damaging the ewi boards. Even if these problems could be overcome, the colour would not match exactly so would need to paint it, but then what is the point of paying for through coloured monocouche? I imagine they will want you to accept that it is painted (if its not out of plumb and it turns out they have actually used the correct boards). It will be up to you to consider if that's acceptable or not.

I would ask your rendering contractor to put it right. Don't take any of the blame yourself, if you asked for a Parex system they should provide a Parex system, are they approved Parex contractors? Parex won't offer any guarantee (not that its worth much) if they haven't been on their course. If the contractor refuses to redo it see if he will come back for a site meeting with the Parex rep.