bassanclan

ebay is the place for your IPA unless you find somewhere locally. The only trouble with ebay is that you have to wait for it to be delivered, but this is not a rush job anyway!

I used Gyproc Soundcoat plus, paddle mix with a bit of water and coir broom, mix to the consistency of emulsion paint and "paint" the walls with it as fast as you can, it will go off in 30 mins.

What about using expoxy grout? It is a lot more or a pain than normal grout to fit, but is bloody good and will last and be waterproof. I have used mapei Kerapoxy before and been very happy

Clayboard is a real pain unless it is well fixed to the sides of the trench, I wouldn't wait and try and do something with it on the day of the pour, if you were thinking of shoving it down the sides as the concrete is poured think again, it will float uncontrollably

in a UVC if you draw off say 100litres of your hot 50c water is that replaced with 100litres of cold immediately or does the tank physically empty first, only ever filling up with hot water if say, your boiler or heat source sends it there? If so how does this work with solar PV/immersion heaters?

To meet building regs I'm pretty sure the insulation needs mechanical fixings, the fear/theory being that a fire would melt the foam fixing causing 8'x4' sheets of molten insulation falling over, which would otherwise stay in position if mechanically fixed.

That was your parents way of saying "stop overthinking things, leave the thinking to Adam!"

I think you are overthinking this! 3/4 s/s screws to fit the cill (they were probably supplied, used for fixing the packing to the frame) 2/3 concrete screws/zebras, low expansion foam, frame sealant. All done in less time than you've spent writing on this thread!

Our system was installed in mid Jan 2016 too: 16x250w 8.33 eternity moncrystalline (4kw system) 35 degree roof pitch 30 degrees from south shading factor 1 zone 6 Birmingham Predicted: 3648 KWH Actual: 3337 KWH Not as much as I had hoped for, but not terrible and certainly worth rushing to get in before the FIT cuts

The easiest thing is to give SWMBO a blank sheet of paper, let her design the kitchen then ask the architect to put some walls around it.

Can you PROVE that your structural engineer had the soil investigation report in his hand when he designed the foundations?

I don't think you will get away with an AAV where you have indicated. Usually furthest away from the mains sewer your building control officer will want to see it vented to the outside.

It's a refurb with a wall of 280mm - insulated cavity of 80mm, so probably worse than the assumptions!

Thank you. It has given me a figure of 9592 BTU - 15% = 8153 BTU I think if I go for 9000BTU I should be right in the middle of all these calculations, the 12000 BTU is an outlier.

Any recommendations for an accurate/good radiator sizing website. I've put the details for one room into three different websites and the results range from 8800 to 12000 BTU!

Consider flipping your WC and plant room so you only have one soil pipe instead of two. The furthest soil pipe (e.g WC) generally has to be vented to the outside anyway, which might be an issue. Otherwise I would stick with the orange lines. I'm working on a property where the soil pipe runs under the slab and it's caused no end of problems albeit 30-50 years after it was initially laid.

There needs to be some sort of penalty for councils to stop them refusing "acceptable" planning applications which are overturned at appeal because of the amount of time/money/stress for the applicant is far greater than any penalty the council face.

What render are you using? If you look at the technical info from the render manufacturer it will show very similar detail which will back up your argument with the renderer. I have attached a Sto example Heritage R1_MNP_FULL.pdf

+2 for tin snips

The amount of ventilation required depends on the square feet of the extension. You need to look in Building Regs part F. If you don't have trickle vents in the existing windows you might get away with not having to have trickle vents. On my refurb and extension, all the windows were replaced and the windows in the new 110sqm extensions had no trickle vents because the old windows didn't have them and I think they are a ridiculous idea! I didn't ask my BCO before ordering the windows and thought I might have to fit an MHVR unit, but I fessed up and my BCO said he was not concerned about the lack of trickle vents.

Is any of this covered by buildings insurance?

There must be something wrong in the corner. Have you investigated below?

Surely the volume of water contained in a hot water circulating system is not that much. Say 0.3 litres per m (22mm pipe) In my situation I would probably be looking at a total circuit of approx 20m, so approx 6 litres of water. A typical pump might work at 1.8 cubic m per hour (1800litres per hour) so it would take 20 second to pump the 6 litres around a ciruit. I don't know if such a timer exists, but if you could set up a timer to operate the pump for 30 seconds every 30 mins (or however long it takes for the water to cool down) from say 7am - 10pm that would only be 15 minutes of pump operation per day.

No, just on a "I don't like the idea of that" someone could scald themselves etc etc

Not sure if these attachments will show up... Arden House kitchen.pdf Arden House kitchen2.pdf