Gone West

I didn't hear anything from the LPA about my applications. I had to ask them after seven weeks in order to know what was going on. This is a very poor LPA though. Their website isn't always updated either.

A very large branch broke off a beech tree and demolished a friends garage. I wouldn't want to live in anything with large trees within striking distance.

Was the Hardiebacker fitted tight when very cold and could it be due to expansion when it warmed up?

We have an insulated raft foundation with render board and brick slips which cover the 100mm EPS upstand as shown in first picture. Stainless steel wire wool is fitted between the EPS and render board. We used 18mm shingle to finish off next to the brick slips.

I used stainless steel wire wool. It's used in exhaust systems, I've still got a roll left over somewhere.

In the summer most of the heat will enter the conservatory through the roof. If it is fully covered with 25m2 plus possible overhang of PVs that will reduce overheating in the summer. Automatic louvre windows should reduce overheating further if necessary. In the shoulder months the sun will still shine through the windows to keep the conservatory warm.

I glued packing pieces to the metal frame where the pan is bolted through to prevent the board being bent towards the frame when tightening up the bolts. IIRC it was only around 2mm gap.

I think Icynene is class 0.

@joe90 I've never used it but Is epoxy grout porous?

This is the same detail I have on my PH slab. I put 50mm Rockwool EWI between battens then counterbattened and at the base put Bluclad cement board covered with brick slips.

Our plans changed a fair bit over the three designs, not because we wanted the changes, but because the planners forced it. We were just relieved when we finally got planning permission.

My immersion thermostat packed up a few months ago. IIRC the resistance should be around 18 ohms. Might be that and not the element.

Our starting point was that we decided we didn't want to have a heating system. We also wanted an portal timber I-beam frame, so it was a case of working out U factors for the walls and roof and playing around with wall thicknesses, insulation types and glazing in the PHPP. After many months of work we came up with a max U factor of 0.1 for walls and roof would allow us not to need a conventional heating system for our layout. It is very dependent on the climate and micro-climate where you intend to build. Even where you obtain that climate data from is something that needs careful consideration.

We've got a Fakro TG roof window with glazing g value of 0.32. Works well.

You can price your own up on this site. Still expensive though. https://www.diywardrobes.co.uk/

Thanks, that's great I'll risk it then.

Yes I'm using the existing mains and the only person checking the installation would be the BCO.

First stopcock is on my land next to the lane. The second stopcock is a metre inside my hedge which is where the water meter is. The next one is inside the house. I don't have any outside taps running off the mains water supply because I have a borehole.

@Nickfromwales Could you clarify this for me. Are you saying that the 'stopcock' where the incoming main first enters the inside of the house has to be a conventional stopcock even if there are other stopcocks on that MDPE pipe between where the MDPE pipe enters your land and your house? I was hoping to use a 'Push Fit Full Bore Lever Isolation Valve', as mentioned above, instead of a conventional stopcock.

It all depends on the installer, for me the cutting back was a major part of the job. IIRC we ended up with around 70 large bags of offcuts which we had to take to the tip. It's a great material though and very airtight.

I use the thicker 'gas' type PTFE tape so I don't have to put as many turns on.

My first floor is 22mm T&G chipboard glued and screwed to metal web joists, no squeaks.

Hi and welcome to the forum. Don't hold back with the questions there are plenty of people willing to help.

I can second those thoughts about Sennocke. I have my warranty with them and site insurance. I didn't need site insurance any longer but did want the house and contents insured as it is largely furnished. Other insurers wouldn't cover me until the house had been signed off but Sennocke covered it with unoccupied house and contents insurance which worked out half the price of the site insurance.

If I reach 94 I'll be pleased! Well possibly....