Gone West

It hasn't been used in anger yet. We've wiped it down several times when clearing up working dirt. We're relying on reviews of other installations.

You said you wouldn't tell!!

Thanks, it's Venetian Plaster. I had it done in all the bathrooms instead of tiles. It's very smooth and has interesting patterns in it which are created by the plasterer with the trowel. I've had a lot of favourable comments.

It was nothing complicated. I wanted to fit a corner toilet but I needed to test the connection under the cistern which is hidden when the toilet is fitted. So I just connected it up to test that. Amazingly it worked first time so I thought I would test the kitchen tap and the wetroom basin tap as well.

They often 'nose' in next door. I've seen them peering in the windows. Around here, a few years, ago they stopped employing CT Inspectors due to financial reasons but they have started again so I guess they've found some more money.

It's Speedfit and the coloured clips are the collett clips which can only be fitted when the elbow or other fitting is tightened. I like it because it's a visual check that the fitting has been correctly installed.

I don't have a potable water supply in the house yet because the Council Tax Inspectors keep coming around. I wanted to test the connections on some taps and a toilet I had fitted, so I rigged up a hose from the bungalow to the manifolds. Surprisingly it worked. Nice when something does for a change!

It's 150mm deep strips of 10mm Bluclad cement board that I ripped down. The Bluclad was left over from the build and it was a bit of an experiment really. I didn't have another use for the board and it was supposed to be waterproof. Surprisingly it seems to be surviving although if the edge was walked on I think it would soon disintegrate.

It was very similar for me too. It just depends on your LPA and the particular planning officer assigned your case.

If it is Hardiebacker it's more difficult to screw than plasterboard. They may have reduced the number of fixings. I drilled and countersunk mine and used s/s screws.

I didn't hear anything from the LPA about my applications. I had to ask them after seven weeks in order to know what was going on. This is a very poor LPA though. Their website isn't always updated either.

A very large branch broke off a beech tree and demolished a friends garage. I wouldn't want to live in anything with large trees within striking distance.

Was the Hardiebacker fitted tight when very cold and could it be due to expansion when it warmed up?

We have an insulated raft foundation with render board and brick slips which cover the 100mm EPS upstand as shown in first picture. Stainless steel wire wool is fitted between the EPS and render board. We used 18mm shingle to finish off next to the brick slips.

I used stainless steel wire wool. It's used in exhaust systems, I've still got a roll left over somewhere.

In the summer most of the heat will enter the conservatory through the roof. If it is fully covered with 25m2 plus possible overhang of PVs that will reduce overheating in the summer. Automatic louvre windows should reduce overheating further if necessary. In the shoulder months the sun will still shine through the windows to keep the conservatory warm.

I glued packing pieces to the metal frame where the pan is bolted through to prevent the board being bent towards the frame when tightening up the bolts. IIRC it was only around 2mm gap.

I think Icynene is class 0.

@joe90 I've never used it but Is epoxy grout porous?

This is the same detail I have on my PH slab. I put 50mm Rockwool EWI between battens then counterbattened and at the base put Bluclad cement board covered with brick slips.

Our plans changed a fair bit over the three designs, not because we wanted the changes, but because the planners forced it. We were just relieved when we finally got planning permission.

My immersion thermostat packed up a few months ago. IIRC the resistance should be around 18 ohms. Might be that and not the element.

Our starting point was that we decided we didn't want to have a heating system. We also wanted an portal timber I-beam frame, so it was a case of working out U factors for the walls and roof and playing around with wall thicknesses, insulation types and glazing in the PHPP. After many months of work we came up with a max U factor of 0.1 for walls and roof would allow us not to need a conventional heating system for our layout. It is very dependent on the climate and micro-climate where you intend to build. Even where you obtain that climate data from is something that needs careful consideration.

We've got a Fakro TG roof window with glazing g value of 0.32. Works well.

You can price your own up on this site. Still expensive though. https://www.diywardrobes.co.uk/