Gone West

They're aluminium and I got them from Ironmongery Direct, but it was several years ago and unfortunately they don't appear to stock them any longer. SDSLondon still do them but they are more expensive. https://www.sdslondon.co.uk/zig-zag-pattern-vents.html

These are fitted around 2.5m above the ground.

We had a 6m span with a pair of truss rails over the single storey part of our build.

Hi and welcome to the forum. Good luck with your project. Your place looks positively palatial compared to the last house we renovated.

We have a 12mm gap under our doors over a hard floor. I wanted to make sure there weren't any draughts which could be created if the gap is too small. I think we are just used to having very small gaps to prevent draughts but when using MVHR in an airtight house the opposite is true.

Ideally not a cowl as it would restrict air flow a bit. I wanted stainless steel bullnose cowls which look good but because they slot onto the end of the duct I thought the restriction would be too great. I used a 300mm square grill with an insect screen behind which has an airflow greater than the cross sectional area of the duct.

I've been using Devolo dLAN for about 12 or 13 years in two different houses without any problems.

When our neighbours bungalow was demolished they found Chrysotile cement boards. Last week I bought a testing kit to double check the boards in our bungalow as they were built at the same time. I paid £29.99 from Amazon for this. https://www.asbestos-sampling.com/

In the past I syphoned the bottom of my oil tank every couple of years to ensure water didn't build up sufficiently to come out of the outlet. In my tank the sump below the outlet pipe is large and it would take a lot of water before it caused a problem, although that was what happened the first time which led me to do the syphoning.

I stopped using Firefox because at every update it seemed to be trying to look like Chrome and I liked the look of the old Firefox. I started using Xmarks when it was Foxmarks and just carried on when it was commercialised.

I got fed up with Firefox some time ago and now use Pale Moon with Xmarks.

I have seen winch drawn mole ploughs used.

I can't find the link at the moment. For extract I used 2 ACH for bathrooms, 0.7 ACH for the kitchen and 1.1 ACH for the utility room. For supply I used 0.4 ACH for bedrooms, 0.5 ACH for reception rooms and 0.3 ACH for the hall. This gives a balanced total of 101 m3/h on fan speed 2, which can be reduced by using fan speed 1 and adjusting the fan speed percentage accordingly.

When I was researching into how to install MVHR around eight or nine years ago I made a list of rules I found relating to connecting the unit to the outside. I'm sure these are not exhaustive and nor are they prescriptive, but it's what I used to install mine. 1. The inlet and outlet grilles should be 3m apart to prevent cross contamination of air. 3m was the distance I found mentioned most often. 2. The inlet and outlet grilles should be high enough (2m) to prevent interference by animals or children. 3. The inlet and outlet grilles should be on the same wall so they are affected equally by the wind. 4. The free flow area of the grill including insect screen should be at least as great as the cross sectional area of the duct. 5. The duct should be smooth wall to reduce air flow restriction. 6. Any ducting bends should be large radius of curvature or two 45 degree bends to reduce air flow restriction. 7. The ducting should slope downwards slightly to ensure any moisture drains to the outside.

It's normally recommended that there is a minimum 3m space between MVHR inlet and outlet.

Are there any thoughts about the different methodologies used between PH and BR ventilation calculations? Please.

We have standard glass Eclisse pocket doors. Eclisse do telescopic pocket doors. http://www.eclisse.co.uk/telescopic-pocket-door-system-single/

Too true!

@RichS and @willbish The cost of the removal and the replacement works were borne completely by the company laying the slab. As I had video evidence of the work being done and the time taken they accepted liability and in that respect can't be faulted. There was some half hearted vibration work done but the concrete was going off before it could be laid properly. The cost cutting included not pumping and using a concrete supplier whose depot was too far away. The weather being quite warm didn't help matters. After ultra-sonic testing showed cavities, core samples were taken to verify the fact. After that there was nothing to do other than complete removal.

I also had problems with my passive slab, details in my blog, although not the same as yours. The slab is 200mm thick all over and the second attempt, which I had pumped with C35, was fine. On ours the DPM was on top of the polystyrene and held down by the steel and the concrete was pokered. When I had mine done self compacting/levelling wasn't really an option but I would have used it had it been available.

@James H It looks great. If you've got time it would be good if you could do a blog showing your progress through the build.

Well done, you should be proud of your achievement.

I paid £140 for as built SAP and showed them my PHPP output for the design.

If you are having a heating system then you can adjust that to suit your construction. You could reduce the size of the sliding doors. I would have thought they would need a heating system in Canada whatever the thickness of the walls so there isn't a saving to be had in not installing a heating system. Our walls are 500mm thick but living in the South East of England allows us to not have a conventional heating system.

Thank you Moira. Yes the Genvex is working fine. Looking at the specifications for the Combi185 I think the small one 'S' would only work in a well insulated flat and the larger one 'LS', which we have, would only work in a well insulated small house like ours. I did look into using a Sunamp PV and separate MVHR near the end but the ventilation and DHW side of the build were too far advanced to change things.