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Gone West

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Everything posted by Gone West

  1. Same here and I was lucky that BCO and Highways Dept allowed me to discharge roof drainage directly onto the lane.
  2. It delivers warm air up to, IIRC, 50C through the MVHR part of the Genvex Combi. As we designed the house ourselves we knew all the details about orientation, glazing, plumbing etc so it wasn't too difficult to collect all the data about the house. It's other areas of data such weather data which is interesting because there are different sources for that and it can have quite a large affect on the results.
  3. We didn't want a house that needed any form of 'wet' heating. We have a small area of electric UFH in the kitchen and electric towel rails in the bathrooms. That and the EASHP in the Genvex Combi are the only heating we have. We didn't involve a PH designer because during our research into PH we looked at several PH and some we found uncomfortable and some were test beds for new technologies. We wanted to have a house that was simple to maintain, relatively simple to build and to have as low energy use as possible within our budget. I'm lucky in that for 25 years I worked in the area of mathematical modelling and I found the PHPP not too difficult to use. I read the manual a couple of times before starting to use it and the more I used it, the more I found it useful for tweaking all area of the design.
  4. I bought a copy of PHPP and used it to design my PH. I wanted a design that didn't have UFH or conventional central heating so I needed to use the PHPP. If you're going to have some form of heating in your house there are more basic ways of modelling space heating and DHW requirement. There are ways around orientation and glazing problems when designing a PH so the PHPP would be useful if you want to reduce your energy use as much as possible. SAP is pretty useless for low energy houses, although it is better than it used to be.
  5. Hi, and welcome to the forum. Good luck with the build.
  6. Think I would want a full decontamination suit on if I was going to shred that lot!
  7. That's a substantial looking house and I'm sure you'll get it back to how you you want it. Looks like you've been working hard over the last few weeks, well done.
  8. That's the anemometer I've got and used to set up my MVHR. It's pretty straightforward to use and you can download the results saving having to write them down.
  9. My reedbeds are right next to my boundary as is the soakaway from the reedbeds and the BCO was happy with the layout.
  10. @AliG I'm sorry but the skimming is appalling. We were very lucky with our plasterer who was a perfectionist and the result was that there was no need to fill or sand any of his work. He also did our Venetian plaster, most of our ground floor tiling and laid our outdoor stone slabs. If you are a perfectionist at one job you are at all jobs. You just need to have all the areas you are unhappy about replastered by somebody who is competent because you will be living with it a long time and regretting it if you don't.
  11. Is it the timber frame itself? I have racking boards on the outside of my timber frame so the framework the cladding is attached to is less substantial than the structural timber frame.
  12. Same as Jeremy, I put on two coats of Osmo PolyX satin clear. Easiest finish I have used.
  13. My 1920s bungalow, that is to be demolished, has T&G pine sarking boards.
  14. @recoveringacademic There are lots of videos to watch here. Don't know anything about the product though. http://www.solarlimpets.co.uk/page4.htm
  15. I've found having a basin wrench makes life a lot easier for jobs like that.
  16. @vivienz We've used Elfa in the past. http://elfa.com/en-gb/storage/select-room/bedroom
  17. We never even got as far as having Openreach engineers doing anything. We decided that with all the hassle we had trying to get the surveyors to agree to what we wanted, we didn't have a landline installed at all. There are alternatives.
  18. It's looking great, I like the carpentry. Have I missed Part 24?
  19. Thanks for the heads up. We got some for our bedroom, allows us time to sort out something more permanent.
  20. +1 I've always used white cement for mortar.
  21. Hi Erwin, I'm really sorry to hear of your problems. Crap workers is why it's taken us eight years to finish ours. Even amateurs like me can do a better job than some of the 'professionals' out there. Hope you can track him down and get something back through the small claims court.
  22. I've had Harveys and TwinTec softeners and not had them serviced. They've been ok for up to around ten years old without being serviced. AIUI it's a pain refilling the cylinders with resin on that type compared to some others.
  23. I got a Senco framing nailer around ten years ago, it's still going strong.
  24. We've got a Yardmaster 10' x 12' had it for around ten years. Still solid but I wouldn't have a metal shed again. Condensation meant I had to line the roof with polystyrene and after a while the seals around the screws break up and then the rain weeps in.
  25. Our BCO wasn't interested in what was in the planning approval. He signed it off even though we didn't have a level access from the drive to the path leading to the front door. He was pragmatic about it because we have to demolish the bungalow in order to create the driveway. Some BCOs have more common sense than others.
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