Gone West

These were mentioned on the other forum and look interesting. http://www.denso-am.com/products/life-energy/co2-heat-pump/ https://www.stiebel-eltron.com/en/home/products-solutions/renewables/ventilation/central/lwz_504/lwz_504.html

It's not adventitious because when we designed the house we wanted the bathrooms to be a little bit warmer than the other rooms. The advantage of that is that the air extracted from those rooms can help warm the incoming air to the house. The towel rails are always on,unless those rooms are warm enough without them. I don't know how effective a pre-heater would be, I guess it would depend on where in the country you live. Yes, I've never used it. We have the hot water set at 45C. I think it can be timed to come on whenever you want. It sound feasible. I'm sure if the surface of the flooring is insulating it will be as comfortable underfoot as a heated less insulating surface. On the rocks is swearing.

This is the saw that Icynene provide.

It was too dry and sandy for grass snakes up there. Grass snakes grow up to 3' long but adders not much more than 1' so I'd like to see an adder eat a grass snake .

@Nickfromwales It has a built in EASHP rated at 585W which provides hot water and warm air heating. The hot water has priority and the EASHP will heat it to a max. of 55C. There is a 1kW 'immersion heater' which is just a coil in a pocket in the side of the tank which will heat it up to 65C. The warm air heating is up to around 45C. It works straight out of the box and all these settings can be adjusted on the control unit. We have a porcelain tile on 200mm concrete ground floor and bamboo flooring on 22mm chipboard first floor. The model we have is the LS which has the larger compressor. I think it only works because it's a small house and has a very low space heating requirement. The smaller S model would struggle unless in a small, very well insulated flat. Our main heating is supplied by the three electric towel rails in the bathrooms and around 4m2 electric UFH in the kitchen. I prefer my pint of Glenfiddich at room temperature.

When I lived at Wrotham Heath as a kid we used to go up Gallows hill behind the Royal Oak. There were adders everywhere but no grass snakes.

A few years ago my mate asked me to remove one from his pond because it was eating his fish. I managed to pick it up but it then wrapped itself round my forearm and crapped all over it. It stunk for days. I think we were both glad to be separated when I let it go a few hundred yards away.

It didn't cause any health problems. It degases very quickly with most smell gone after a day. It's a soft rubbery foam so there aren't hard gritty bits getting everywhere. It does cling to everything though and needs vacuuming off but that's about the worst of it. It's just the tedium of days of trimming.

Sorry for being thick but I don't follow what you're saying. and Are you saying there is a requirement in PHPP for a MVHR setting of 0.5ACH? I don't remember that when I ran PHPP, but it was several years ago. Is it in the Ventilation tab?

The PH requirement is 0.6ACH but once you get down to less than 1.0ACH it has very little effect on space heating requirement.

Welcome to the forum. I guess you mean MVHR, not ASHP. That's a lot of PV so do you mean ASHP for heating as well as MVHR for ventilation. Without knowing heat loss and airtightness it's difficult to say about heating upstairs but my guess is with wall U factor 0.2 you would need heating upstairs.

@Simplysimon No I didn't but friends did on their new build, but it wasn't cheap. They also used the solar thermal.

I used the Nu-Lok system and for easy areas, straight with no dormers, it was quick.

Just doing the VAT reclaim and I have a couple of questions. If an invoice contains items that cannot be claimed for, is it best to highlight them with a highlighter pen or put a pencil line through them? Are non electric wooden gates accepted for VAT reclaim purposes as fencing is?

You could try a shower cap or the type we have that allows both options.

I use the thicker gas PTFE and put six turns on. First time I ever put it on I wound it on the wrong way and proceeded to unwind the tape as I did it up! Numpty

We have Lindab guttering. It's been up about six years with no problems. It's different to standard guttering in that you cut a hole in the gutter where you want the downpipe, there isn't a standard downpipe section. If you follow the instructions about using hand tools for making all the cuts and not using power tools the galvanizing creeps back over the cut and there is no rusting.

We have the metal bar across the middle solution.

I can relate to that completely.

We used to go abroad (Madeira) for a couple of months in the winter every year. Unfortunately the result is that the build takes that much longer but it's great having a break.

Ahh, Wrotham School, I went there, crap old days. Poor old @pocster . Hope they do the right thing by you and supply ones the right size at no cost to you.

We have fitted Schneider Lisse white sockets etc. If you want to fit different looking ones and make a feature of them why not. Just because an architect doesn't like them doesn't mean much. Do what you want to do, it's your house.

Don't forget that except for glazing facing between SE and SW which sees the sun all year round the other potentially problem glazing in the summer won't see the sun in the winter. Therefore putting a film on those windows won't affect solar gain in the winter. We have a glazed gable which only sees the sun for four months of the year (mid April to mid August) and we have had a film put on it which has reduced overheating massively.

Well done. It's a good looking site too.

I'm not holding my breath .