PeterW

32mm would be to serve a fire suppression system so not metered. The 25mm would be the main house metered supply.

Just watch what HMRC need for proof of “empty” - if council tax has been paid then they may not accept it has been unoccupied so they don’t count that as a valid reason even if it wasn’t someone’s primary residence.

LSD sell it as singles if you contact them.

ASHP will do all you need here - big DHW tank, oversize the upstairs rads and then use UFH for the rest assuming you’ve got decent insulation levels. Any option with PV on the roof ..?

Coatings are all on the inside of the panes with the exception of self clean

we worked out the additional cost over a year including the cost of running the ASHP to replenish 400 litres on a 24/7 pump was about £85… used a £20 timer with 15min/hr from 6am-11pm and so it paid for itself in 3 months. That was a commercial building with intermittent usage during the week. £85 buys a lot of pies …

One of what ..?? That is a benched access chamber using a channel branch - can all be done in standard UPVC sections now unless you’re adding to it ..? The UPVC comes pre-sprayed with granulated pvc chips to make it stick into the concrete benching.

Yes if you use stop beads but they would need to be set carefully. Most of the shadow gap beads are designed for use with boards so you would need to discuss with your plasterer if you wanted to use the pre-made ones.

Looking at A&A they are just a reseller of TT/BT FTTC wholesale services so you’ll get the same from any of the usual suspects unless you go dedicated fibre connection.

Stone product is potentially porous so may allow water into the cavity and behind the window / door and inside the building.

That’s an MI detail for a specific stone / recon stone lintel that requires a slip plane. Means the outer stone isn’t structural in any way and takes all the loading off it. Only works if you can get a concrete (or box lintel) the correct size and dimensions to match the stone on the inside leaf.

in that case the whole of the base needs to be 25mm smaller all round than the building and your building then overhangs the floor structure. You can then put some sort of DPC around the edges and a trim panel too to cover the ends and keep water out.

TBH I would use one set of brackets onto the stud and another onto standard PB fixings of some flavour. Won’t go anywhere.

+1 to this. @gdal Size the rads to run at d30°C and the UFH with a small buffer or LLH and then put a slimline UVC in a cupboard and you’ll have a full electric system anyway. You need to start with the basics and a heat loss calculation first.

No issue with a rad onto a stud but can’t see how it will only have one set of brackets unless it’s some sort of obscure shape such as the single upright with loops type rad ..??

Finished means you have completed the agreed scheme of works under the planning permission, usually by way of a final building regulations completion certificate. That is partially correct - PD refers to the building as complete so you get PD rights on the new bit too as long as you don’t step over the rules about the existing properly (ie 50% rule)

Building Regulations Part H Approved Document (2015) https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/442889/BR_PDF_AD_H_2015.pdf Sections 2.29 onward, notably Diagram 9 and Table 6, page 15 and page 16. All clearly stating the minimum gradients.

Got one of these and it is insulated and more importantly air sealed - seems to do a decent job https://www.toolstation.com/tb-davies-eurofold-timber-loft-ladder/p53695

What do you mean by first fix carpentry as that is not normally your visible elements with the base exception of a staircase. If you are talking about doors, skirts and archs etc then you could stain and oil pine to look similar to oak but you would need to be very careful as it may all end up looking different as some woods absorb stains differently. Also by the time you’ve done the finishing with coloured oils and so on, you may find the price for oak isn’t as bad as you first thought ..!!

How are you venting the safety PRVs to a drain ..??

Simple timer - runs 6am to 11pm, runs 1min/hour assuming it’s an insulated ring. You can use something like a 1CJDT0 with an asymmetric on/off driven by a really simple DIN timeswitch providing the supply to allow you not to run it 24/7 if you are really that bothered about not having hot water pumps running overnight

What are you planning on laying on top ..? I’d want 40mm of insulation under those but you will need to bond the insulation down and the panels may need screwing to the sub floor through the insulation.

What over floor UFH are you using ..? Will it take tiles directly ..? And how is it linked / separated from the extension ..?? I would go with 40mm of insulation and then final floor over the UFH if the system allows.

@cbk they may not be directly fitted to the UVC but easily installed as it just needs a feed from the hot and the balanced cold from the control set. If you use a manifold arrangement for the hot water supply then you mix in one place and then feed off to the individual supply points / rooms from there.