PeterW

That’s a concrete screw. You need wafer head timber screws.

Assuming you mean global trading prices ..? I am due another increase in timber on 1st July so would anticipate it will be Q4 before we see any decrease in pricing.

Need to get the BCO to confirm that is ok from a fire protection perspective. They may also require fireline boards on the inside. Also think you have your OSB in the wrong place on the inside - should be studs /VCL/OSB/batten/PB

Glue … I’d also hazard that metal is getting close to the price of timber now too.

Doesn’t it depend on the leaves as oak leaves seem to sit flat on the grids and form a waterproof lid around here.

40% from March 2020 to June 2021….

1:110 isn’t allowable in the E&W regs for 110mm pipe.

+1 to using Condell - give them a call and send a list and they will advise what’s available.

13mm/m is 1:76 so near as 1:80, which is in the regs 1/pipe diameter for standard pipe is 1/110mm or 9mm/m which won’t pass as it’s 1:110 so is nowhere near regs. There are options - if you want to go to that level then you have to go to 160mm pipework which has a maximum gradient of 1:150, but it’s expensive and getting 160mm sewer connections becomes problematic as you cannot breach cut a sewer pipe with a 160mm saddle unless you have a minimum sewer diameter of 350mm (based on STW and TW minimum requirements) you could be into blocking and over pumping to put branch connections into the sewer which will be very expensive ..!! It will make a pumping station look very cheap !!

decent hinges aren’t expensive and when your joiner is jigging the doors then it will be 2-3 mins extra to run the router around the third cutout and clean it up than just do two. £4.40 ex for a pack of three ball bearing hinges. https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/product/twin-ball-bearing-fire-door-hinge-100x75x3mm-bs-en-grade-14-stainless-steel-pack-of-3-793130

The tolerance on a block is +/-6mm so why are you stressing about this ..?? Get the strong back in properly then do edge noggins and get the floor down and I reckon you will be +/-2mm across the floor.

@Digmixfill that strongback hasn’t been correctly installed and nailed to all the joists by the looks of it - that needs resolving and then you need the floor noggins (use Z Clips) and then the boards glued and screwed. Then decide how much deviation you have in the floor as it will be negligible.

Not necessarily and depends on the type of clay and the depth. Lots on Graven Hill don’t have anything other than standard foundations so I doubt it’s that deep anyway.

BRegs/WRAS requirement to insulate all visible pipework for the UVC. If you use something like 22x9 Armaflex it will go under those clips or just get some spacers for the clips. I have to say since working with @Nickfromwales I now use Munsen rings everywhere with copper and not plastic clips ..!! They only get used for Hep2O..! Just zoomed in and seen that ..! Where does the tundish run off to ..?? How long and what diameter etc ..?? Also worth getting a coat of paint onto that OSB - acrylic eggshell or something just to make it brighter although as it’s under stairs just check your BCO doesn’t want it boarded out before you commit the pipework.

I would check you can get insulation on all that pipework but a nice tidy job. Do all the water pipes go upward from those manifolds .? Can you offset them so they are staggered and the cold doesn’t go over the top..?

Bringing this back - anyone had any decent results with gasless MiG.? I’ve got a TIG unit but may invest in a small MIG but wonder about lugging the gas around too.

Ok slightly confused now as you’re saying you don’t like them. Sadly, not a reason to return them and as everyone says, they will weather very quickly.

Countsink some holes then plug and screw it back. Then fill the holes. Decorators caulk along what should be a smaller gap.

You mean first two courses off the founds..? All fine - they aren’t “foundation blocks” as these are normally full width for the foundation and the cavity combined.

Graven Hill = Double Standard Pricing.. assume this is a “golden brick” plot, so I would walk away as you’re probably already overpaying for the plot (£160k..??) Ask them if you can buy without a foundation and then get it priced for an insulated foundation such as the Kore system. Will be cheaper and better than a piled system. If not, walk away.

Ok so ... you provided the park the sample based on the ones you were given. The names of the bricks match the sample and what you have ordered so in good faith you have discharged your condition and that’s all you need to do. If it really worries you, give Ibstock technical a call and get them to make the decision for you.

Proper tidy that !! Well done ..!!

Ok something odd about those values - are you sure the beams are the right way round ..??! I’d need to see the plans proper as that block plan doesn’t make entire sense to me. If there is a gable (or a hip..?) on that end wall then the loading on that steel can’t be right.

Yes the one I linked .. https://www.toolstation.com/everbuild-multi-purpose-wood-filler-250ml/p15238

Depending on the cement it probably already has plasticiser in it ...