PeterW

you want a decent rough service bulb as you may find they go pretty quickly. If you can wait til thursday then Amazon have some 110v rough service bulb

Lay the bottom tile first, then the top, fit the back then the sides. As @Nickfromwales says if you can keep the water out even better, I tend to use a bead of sealant such as CT1 behind the bed joints so no water can get in. The usual problem area is the trim on the edge as water can pool on the grout if you're not careful.

Or a couple of cheap plastic sweeping brushes and a couple of washing up bowls works just as well

@Onoff is there a foam gun cleaner shortage we don't know about..??

Is this for warranty or site insurance..?? Think ours was about £550 but I took a lot of the site cabin cover etc out of it. Also beware that they will only cover for 12 months at a time, if you extend for another 6 or so its 70% of the premium.! You may want to tell them your build will be a long term one as they may or may not cover.

I saw some tiny 30mm fans in Maplin of all places - may put one on my rPi to keep it cool.

2.5m is over 8ft so most containers would be fine. How big do you need it as I know someone who has a place at Huthwaite

As it says - has anyone tried running an rPI as a radius server..?? I'm looking at some Cisco kit for a charity but the APs don't run anything other than WEP so I was looking at potentially putting something like FreeRadius on an rPi as a cheap security solution

When I was rolling out Catia in the early part of 2008 it was €16k per workstation and that didn't include any of the server side stuff which was north of €2m IIRC Our engineers used to have a "globe" that you could pick up from the desk and rotate in 3D, with the model on screen moving in exactly the same way... we also had a large design for maintenance team who ensured that once the units were built we could actually maintain them as they could simulate removing large components on screen saving millions in rework if the parts had to be redone in manufacturing.

Heatflex is their latex self leveling compound - I've just looked it up ..! so what they are saying is put the heater cables in the SLC and then stick the floor to that ... basically making a sandwich of the compound and cables. The moisture content comment relates to letting the Heatflex go off properly otherwise the other stuff won't stick to it.

Willis tubes can be insulated with rigid rock wool - you can get a standard size to fit - or just use Armaflex sheet glued to the can. This one even comes pre-insulated. Willis Heater

New thread created ...

Moved from here Yes..! I'm currently planning where to put 10 DB18S20 sensors around the slab (including one under the insulation) and the fabric of the building. Current list is : - Outside Air (northerly wall) - Under slab - Kitchen Slab - Utility Slab - Lounge Slab - Cellar When finished, they will be added to : - UVC - ASHP Feed - ASHP Return - MVHR Inlet - MVHR Supply - Internal Air question is ... how to link them all easily as I'm an rPi fan at heart but something tells me Arduino would be easier ..? or is there an off the shelf logger at a reasonable price that can do this sort of sensor..?

I think this is the rub here - this is the differences in BS8500 and others between prescribed mixes and designated mixes. Both have the same strength class but both can potentially be different mixes depending on how they are used and where. But like @ProDave I've never seen a reinforcement in a foundation that hasn't had an RC spec for the concrete. Whilst I don't disagree with what you're saying about mixes, it's a lot easier to check now and confirm in writing from the SE than wait until you've got a hole full of the wrong stuff ... @Vijay was your house designed as ICF from the outset or are the starter bars an addition to the original design. That may potentially change the SE view.

They also don't like connecting in or passing over anyone else's land from my experience. There is a main much closer to our plot and I initially looked at it as an option however it would mean crossing the rest of the neighbouring garden - total distance of 5m. Anglian surveyed and said we could use the main outside the gates - this is in an unmade road and is 29m of service pipe but it's their preferred approach. This I think is down to both wanting you to go direct onto a main plus not having to sort wayleaves and easements. Don't forget they will only dig to your boundary - looking at that you will have the rest to do yourself anyway.

I use AirBnB a lot and it's surprising the places you end up staying and how they have made a small space very useable. Some have managed to get the whole studio flat concept into a small room and it works - not saying I would want to spend a whole month in one but they can serve a purpose. If you want to see micro homes on a large scale just look at student accommodation - most new builds are ensuite and some are now even having their own kitchens.

We have a big Klargester Bio that does just what you say and it's been retrofitted by the manufacturer with a nitrate reduction system. Basically it pumps the leachate back into the main tank to maintain a level in there so the disks don't dry out and also so the liquid is diluted continually. Not cheap but also another moving part. Ours costs about £600 a year on a service contract too - the auto grease units need replacing every 6 months and they have to get into the unit to do it ....

Technically yes, in reality a BCO could ask for the ticket and if you have a non RC spec with reinforcing then you may have an issue.

Sorry but C30 is not suitable for reinforcing - you have to use an "RC" spec concrete. By putting the rebar into you are then reinforcing it which changes the spec. Have you queried this with the SE..?? Getting 65 CuM wrong is a very expensive mistake ...!

For drones you need to talk to our own aerial photographer @Construction Channel Does the site not have existing power..? Being rural you may find its in a pole transformer - these do need replacing and upgrading over time and sometimes you can get lucky and the company will do it for free. Other times then you may end up with a bill - £10-15k is not unreasonable. It also drives the decisions on what to use for heating etc as unless you go very low energy you will need to get a decent heat source that is not power hungry or the price of the transformer goes up ..! @readiescards did some thinking on being off grid in a similar situation

Errr C30 isn't suitable for reinforcing, you would need to use RC30.

Yep..! Two things to bear in mind - these things drink diesel like a paddy with a thirst, and they are VERY desirable by our traveling tarmac fraternity.... insure it, then take the wheels off it and make it impossible to get to..! Ideally get one with an underslung bowser or tank, or get one you can tow to a filling station unless you know a good cheap source of red diesel in 56 gallon drums..!

Standard quoting terms for that sort of thing - get it on light columns too. The 60hr rate is based on you running the unit for 60hrs per 7 days hire - if you go over it then they charge you £1.30 per hour. Every gennie has an hour meter so they will check it out and check it back in again. Unlimited is just that - you can run it 24x7 and just pay for the week,

Errr pardon me for being thick but.... Are you going timber frame or blockwork build..? I thought you had just poured founds so when do they think they will have you wind and water tight and first fix done..? And why the rush to dry it out..?

I stand corrected ..! What I thought you had said was to cut the plug off the 13a and wire it into a 20a DP - now see what you meant.