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  • Air tightness - The cost of everything and the value of nothing.

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Found 8 results

  1. At the risk of sounding like I know what I'm talking about, should I dwang my joists? All those in favour say 'Aye', all those against say 'Nay'. Where's he dug that up from then? Here This is the relevant passage. '... The slimmer JJI joists have been plated at their ends and dwanged (horizontal braces) to form a rigid structure. Two thicknesses of 12mm plywood will cover the ends, followed by the green vapour membrane being folded up over to give a vapour barrier. Insulation board of 140mm thickness will be fixed on top of that to bring it flush with the Durisol blocks below.... ( https://edinkist.wordpress.com/diary-of-the-build/)
  2. Good morning all, I was wondering if some of you good folk could advise me on sealing up wall electrical sockets and any openings on the walls for electrics regarding air leakage. We have have been recommended a product called 'Aerosana Viscon' by our renewable heating engineer but have recently bought Blowerproof liquid airtight membrane on the recommendation from forum members for sealing joints between floors and wall along with walls and ceilings. It's maybe obvious that Blowerproof would also to the job for the sockets etc but has anybody used it for this job, or would you recommend a different product? @Conor, did you use Blowerproof also for this or go with a different product? Thank, Joe
  3. I am working with a structural engineer specialising in Traditional Timber frames to design a new build Wealden Hall House. Could anyone point me towards a person / company with a good degree of experience in efficient building design for traditional timber frames? Pursuing a truly historically-accurate frame design results in some specific cold-bridging issues (use of continuous timber posts / plates / joists through cross sections), that we are seeking mitigation strategies for. Thank you.
  4. Air tightness was followed to a reasonable standard: All external walls sealed with plastic before the electric first fix Plasterboard ceiling to almost floor and then siliconed / masticed to floor. No open fireplaces, cat flaps or tricklevent.
  5. I get that masonry wall floor joist hangers are favoured over traditional in-wall fixing of joists in the pursuit of airtight homes but can these hangers cope with 100 years of cyclical loading? Here is my beef. Driving a metal nail into a brittle masonry block to attach a hanger feels like an abuse of such dissimilar materials with long-term failure designed into the fixing. Next add 100 years of 80kg cyclical loading as humans walk around inside the home, stir in some thermal expansion and contraction loads on the hanger attachments and surely after a decade or two the hanger nails will start wobbling in the blocks? Then finally for a laugh apply that process to light thermal blocks. Are my concerns unfounded? The no nonsense commercial builder of a plot nearby has fitted his metal web floor joists direct into the inner blockwork and these blocks are heavy structural blocks I think.
  6. A bit late in the day but I've decided to swap from a cold to a warm loft, using Icynene under the felt between the trusses. However I also now realise I need to seal the inner blockwork to help give some air-tightness. Current options: * cement render the blockwork - maybe plastering later, should I convert the attic to a habitual space in the long term future * 1 part water to 4 part PVA mix hand painted onto the block work - tedious and there are 4 large gable ends to do, unknown long term consequence of doing so What are the options to seal the inner blockwork to increase air tightness? (Does not need to be particularly pretty) Thanks Paul
  7. Is this a better solution to achieving Air Tightness, i.e. establishing air tightness on the external face of the timberframe? I have no affiliation to this company. This is an extract from their website: This product is Wraptite-SA, the only self-adhering vapour permeable air barrier certified by the BBA, was installed as part of the OSB panel construction of the home. The use of Wraptite-SA in the construction makes a significant contribution to a building’s thermal performance by preventing lateral air movement. It also provides high vapour permeability in a continuously sealed, self-adhered, airtight membrane. Unlike internal air barriers, which can be complex and costly to install due to the need to accommodate building services such as electrical, lighting, heating and drainage systems, Wraptite-SA was applied externally, quickly and easily to the OSB boards in continuous pieces
  8. I'm ploughing through the final bits for submission of BRegs and I've come across an interesting query.... The build being undertaken is listed as a Conversion and Extension on the planning application, and is effectively the conversion of a large 28sqm footprint double garage, and adding on two extensions of around 30sqm and 45sqm respectively. As its listed as a conversion, and to all intents and purposes the walls will remain from the old garage (it was built for the purpose of conversion in 1992) then its questionable as to whether it needs to follow L1B or L1A. If I read the terms in L1A then the creation of the house from the garage constitutes a material change of use as per the definition. If that is the case, I assuming all of the DER, TER, SAP and Pressure testing goes out of the window and basically I'm on best endeavours in relation to meeting the regs on an elemental method..?? Does that sound reasonable or have I missed something..??!!
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