PeterW

You should be down at £95 ish a cube or less for that quantity ...

You can pour from the front of the whole site - pick any set of points along the front and keep pouring. Get a flowing concrete NOT one just with a lot of slump in it ..!

For the hassle factor and for speed - which with 65 cube you're going to need - I would dig a 300 trench across the left of the P of plot and put in at the corner of the garage and the other corner of the house. That's going to be one heck of a pour..!!!

... and in doing so you will invalidate the product warranty. Appliances sold with a plug (and installed by the vendors too) can only be fitted using the plug supplied to comply with appliance safety regulations in the U.K. This relates to the CE or safety marking as if an appliance is supplied with a moulded plug on its lead then to remove it and either replace it with a non moulded plug then invalidates the manufacturers warranty. So whilst partially correct in that as you say, a dedicated circuit is required up to the outlet, removing a manufacturers cord or plug is deemed to be a modification. The only allowance on this is if a manufacturer states in the installation documents that this is acceptable. A manufacturer would have no liability under SoGaS or Consumer law to fix or repair such an appliance as installed. There is case law on this somewhere and if I get time I will dig it out. The reason I know this is because we dealt with a situation relating to this last year for a housing association and worked through it with a series of legal advisors. Suffice to say the manufacturer won ...!

You wait til the electricity companies get involved ... we paid £1150 for 2m of connection to a LV main in an unmade road ..!

Why are you using the dumper ..?? Can the concrete wagon not get to two reasonably separated points on the foundations ..?? If you go for a self leveling concrete then 65 CuM will go in from 8 loads which will easily pour inside 2 hours as long as you've got two pour points. It also means it won't have time to start curing as 4 hours will mean you could get dry joints appearing.

I thought PartG was only applied now if it's in your Planning Permission..? Same with PartM..??

Odd ... that is for ceramic tiles normally on wooden floors, not for wood floors onto wood sub floors. Have they misunderstood the question ..?

Nope ..! Basically it's brick 3 sides and a steel door front and back... A while back there was a spate of those ABS garage doors being broken into when your average scrote was using a blowlamp on the steel handle and it softened the door enough to twist and unlock the whole assembly without a key. Don't forget though with garage doors, most have the key number stamped in the barrel anyway and you can buy keys for very little online .....

I've gone the opposite way and I'm having a steel exterior door RAL coated to match the windows. No door from the house to the garage...!

I used sika95 on my floor and I was great but expensive ..! It's only when the guy I put the cladding up for hadn't got anything else that we used the Everbuild stuff. He's put oak down with it and it's great (despite the gaps as he set his saw wrong but that's another issue ...)

So what if I have a MEM CU that's not being used as a CU, just to house 4 time switches and a couple of relays and a contactor ..?? It has no MCB or RCBO in it, just control gear ..?? I'm also assuming it doesn't have to be metal clad either ..?,

Quite a clever bit of kit - did it come with a WRAS marking on the packaging ..??

Try this stuff - I used a small tin of it to bond some timber to a concrete wall and it's impossible to remove 18 months later and that is outside ...!! http://www.bambooflooringcompany.com/ever-build-lumberjack-650-adhesive-14kg.html

No comment as to where I got my idea from ..!! Keeping the main switch to isolate the power to all the timers etc but the whole of the heat system including pumps etc uses around 900w when it's all switched on. That's protected by a 10a RCBO. The only one that is not part of that is the immersion circuit which is SSD operated so isolated and fitted in another box.

.... and the warranty is supplied by the "other business arm" of the self same building inspection company that obviously has no vested interest .....

@recoveringacademic let me send you the calculation spreado that I've got that's got the correct calcs and the BS numbers on it

I figure if I'm only switching 1-2a they will last longer ..!

Using these generic ones from ebay

Yes but tbh they are planned to be coming on an hour in the morning and one in the evening. Boost will be via button on the CU but it's accessible anyway.

I've looked at these and they are pretty decent Warm Star eBay Think @Nickfromwales recommended them but can't be sure...! [Just looked and 2m2 is £56 with a touch screen stat)

So there are two types of "dry" wood, and that's the issue ..! I can put a log in a warm room for 72 hours and the outside moisture content can be as low as 10% - inside it will be 35-40% but most people don't know how to measure properly the moisture content of logs. The second log can be 10% in the middle but dunk in a bucket of water for 2 hours and it's 40% on the outside - this is a dry log stored badly ..! The biggest issue is we have forgotten how to make fires and store wood - I would hazard a guess that anyone who cuts, splits and dries their own wood knows the right way whilst anyone who has a lifestyle stove and buys their overpriced "kiln dried" timber in neatly packaged pallets wouldn't know a dry log if it smacked them across the back of the head ...!

So I've got an 18 way consumer unit that will have in it all of the time switches and thermostats for : - eUFH / TRail bathroom - eUFH / TRail ensuite - Immersion timer - wUFH pump timer - wUFH temp controller Means that on the wall outside the bathroom there is just an isolator for the towel rail and a simple thermostat for the floor. Towel rail elements are 300w PTC so self regulating, floors are either 200w or 500w so total load is 1.3kw in total.

Snap ..! same here, all on timers from the main control box to make it easy

Like @recoveringacademic I decided it wasn't worth it if you pay £2-3k for a system which is essentially a roto moulded tank with a pump in it, a filter and a level controller. Most of the commercial ones use some sort of diverter to ensure there is no chance of cross contamination between supplies, and have an air gap to ensure that any potable supply that is used to top up the system cannot back siphon. Filtering is the key and I plan to filter at 4 places - gutters will have leaf guards/hedgehogs in them - downpipe gullies will filter out the smaller stuff and allow settlement of some other crud - floating pick up filter in the tank to ensure whats piped up to the pump is as clean as possible. - 5micron and activated carbon 10'' filters in the garage prior to the pump to finally clean the water. I had considered also using an a tank based ozone bubbler to disinfect the water but tbh it was too much hassle and I will just shock the tanks occasionally with pool tabs. Tanks will be linked at the bottom with ordinary 25mm MDPE fittings onto the IBC outlets and the pump will have a floating pickup in tank 1 where the rainwater will also enter - sounds counter intuitive but means that tanks 2&3 become pure storage and the movement of water between the tanks at the bottom will keep the MDPE clear of crud. As I'm in Anglian Waters supply zone this will all be going in after the build is signed off - whilst it's all fine and above board, AW ask for the make and manufacturer of any RWH system and I don't want to get into a bun fight about whether I've met a BS ... The system as designed meets it, but I can see them adding more hoops and tbh the infrastructure for it is going in but it won't be commissioned until Post connection and sign off.