PeterW

Anyone looking for Kingspan..?? Had 32 of these delivered today and they are pretty much perfect ....! 125mm PIR for £25 a board (inc delivery) is a fantastic price as the closest I could get was £33 https://www.secondsandco.co.uk/product-page/123-128mm-1-2x2-4m-foil-foil-boards

Yep I think you need to check yours too ....

So my rafters are doubled up under the dormer cheeks and it's M12 bolt @600mm spacing up the middle of the rafter with square plate washers either side and a spiked washer between the rafters. That makes them 95x175 so they are going nowhere ..!!

Dear god the Welshman has actually been listening to what we have been saying ..!! @Nickfromwales is after an admins job ..!

Hi @Dee so... if you put an @ before someone's name it notifies them they have been tagged if you choose to click notify it will send you mails hope that helps ..?

Yep - 4am thoughts about how much less volume I need in concrete for using plastic trays for the UFH....

Dont forget the glue too ..!

Trays form £350 of that price. Using them for ease as we have a flowcrete screed that is fibre reinforced so makes life slightly easier ..!

Timely reminder to do my order ..!

Ecobuild is a trade show at the end of the day, not a consumer show. I got a quote last year for micro inverters at about £32 each with a 15 year warranty and they looked great - until I had to buy a minimum of 36..! Only interesting conversations I really had were with Sunamp and Quinn's who seemed to have aimed squarely at the energy saving market.

Wunda delivery arrives tomorrow ... and my manifold and Wilos EuP pump certainly didn't come to £400 never £400 more ..! Total cost for 77 sqm including floor trays, pipe, few rails for doorways and the pump and manifold with its bits is about £800. Also ordered the commissioning kit at £15 and the reamer which will be available to anyone else after next week when the concrete floors are in ..!

Rectorseal every time - it's both a lubricant and contains PTfe fibres so works as a mix of fill and seal too

Unless your sparky is Gas Safe registered you will not only invalidate the warranty you will be breaking the law ..! (Or he will..) LPG needs setting up properly as the pressure and flow are different to Nat Gas. Do the right thing and spend the money..!!

Good deal for anyone with conventional heating / combi and wants the iOS or Android control of their heating. Three free rad valves too https://www.bes.co.uk/drayton-migenie-wish-1-mt714r-single-channel-controller-room-thermostat-pack-wireless-23209?utm_source=BES+Customer+List&utm_campaign=ddfbd9dac4-Special+offers+-+Tuesday+7th+Mar+2017&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_4d7d381b2a-ddfbd9dac4-410271009&mc_cid=ddfbd9dac4&mc_eid=3dba761916

@TerryE Search for pressure transducer not sensor.... 300PSI Transducer

Welcome... So is that the inner side of the outer brick, or the inner side of the inside cavity wall...?? If that is to be habitable then you will need to get to a wall u-value of 0.28 which just filling that gap with poly beads will not achieve from the first look. It may be quicker and cheaper to rip the inner skin of plasterboard down and build a stud wall assuming that is only a single brick skin as you will also have to sort the vapour barrier. What are you planning on doing on the floor assuming there is a level difference between the garage and the existing house..?

22mm P5 Chipboard, glued to the joists and then joints glued. Screws (not nails) every 300mm, and at 50mm of a join. It will be moisture resistant and also solid and squeak free..! OSB is too rough to use as flooring, and ply is overkill UNLESS you are laying tiles on it. If it is being tiled, go for 18mm P5 Chipboard then overlay with 6mm ply fully bonded and screwed to the deck below.... I take it you've no pipe or wiring runs to do in that floor otherwise the plumber and sparky are going to hate your bricky...

That site is a Julian Owen special ... made an offer on it that was declined - services and access are a pig - and it had previous outline PP. I've looked at the proposals and howled as they're awful and the average price round there is £145k....

Use the Knauf ones ..! They are coated not to rust and cut through the board without drilling. You risk shearing a st/st one unless it's top quality. They only get put in just flush with the surface of the board anyway - not like PB where you want them to pull in slightly.

My thought would be you're paying a PM to manage this sort of thing anyway - he should know to assess the floor and check if there is an issue and advise the client - i.e. You - accordingly that there may be a problem. PM and tiler at fault here in my book ..!

They are the same thing - it's just trade names. Out of interest is there a sarking panel on your roof build up ..? I wondered if it could be used to spray the walls where I need to insulate a variable block wall and insulate at the same time to bring it up to a level.

Now at this point I normally advocate Rectorseal .... ... and check the spelling carefully ..!!

If its clay then you may want to use clean 20mm stone and also line the french drain with geotex so the clay doesn't get washed into the gaps . A "V" shape is sometimes better on clay soils but its a pig to dig as you can't use a machine !

Just a quick heads up to those who need a warranty and are going via a broker - check the broker asks the right questions...! As background we purchased the Self Build Zone site insurance and warranty via a broker last year. All seemed fine - we are extending and converting a large double garage - until we tried to get the Building Control elements sorted. The BC company and the warranty company didn't seem to have the same scope as the conversion element was missing despite me being explicit about it and us having insured the existing building so it could be seen that there was something already there .... I've just spent nearly 2 weeks getting this resolved which included me having to write a report and take photos of the existing building, along with the significant risk that we may face a hike in both warranty premium and inspection costs. This was down to the broker not following the insurers process and not asking the right questions - even looking back on the statement of facts it's pretty clear it was "correct" but when you talk to the insurer direct you find there is a lot behind the quotes that needs to be considered. Some conversion and unusual build elements have to be technically checked by the insurers and this is only triggered if the brokers ask the right questions it seems. What has come out of it is that Self Build Zone (which is Sennocke Insurance behind it) do have some very good people and do understand warranties and insurance ..! They have resolved the issues - not without some challenges and a couple of additional terms - but the way it's been done has been professional throughout. I know they always say you find out how good people are when there is a problem - this is one of those cases ..! [As a note I have asked Sennocke for their direct contact details for anyone who is interested - and no, I'm getting nothing out of this other than not losing any more hair and one or two less sleepless nights ...]

Depends where you are ..? This guy still does proper metal working and is a joy to watch ..! http://www.millforge.co.uk/