PeterW

Augers are very easy if you remember it's a 2 stroke engine and to get the torque it needs to be running pretty fast ... 2 man one is much easier if it has to be hand held otherwise I would go excavator every time.

Have you got a photo from a little further back, or the architects plans for the dormer ..? Trying to visualise it ..!

Sounds like a reasonable plan ..! Split 3 ways it's paid for itself in a half day hire as all I'm looking to do is check the flow values.

Check how much sugar in in that yoghurt ...

Like the recess for the towel rail ..!

He reckons they cut cast .... I've got a nice old bit of boiler plate somewhere - must be 30mm thick... wonder what would happen if I used his 125mm hole saw on it...

I can't complain - we have a 2 board kwikstage attached to the 5 board scaffold at the moment after the scaffolders forgot to put the 21ft stanchions up for the gable lift ....

He's probably using a trough .... Roofers labourer turned up last week drinking that Weetabix and milk in a bottle .. aka baby food .... It right near put me off my bacon, egg and sausage cob...

So that's battens on battens on a rolling tower scaffold on fixed scaffold with no handrails ........ Have you tried skyhooks as a safety harness ..??

Ok so unless the wall is a single skin, a 203x133 isn't going to work ... Ideally you will need a pair of them, and they need to be connected to each other, preferably by welded plates top and bottom as otherwise they will be a pig to keep level and square. Both will need their centre flange in line with the load to stop twisting of the top plates so you're likely to need them spaced by the cavity distance minus 35mm or so to get them lined up correctly. You could go with the outer skin with a slightly smaller depth however that may not work with such a big span, especially if the flat roof is attached to the existing brickwork. Proceed with caution ..!

@Trw144 may be able to help you here with sizing etc. 14sqm is not that big so you may be limited to 4-5kw at best.

Ah so one of these ... Cast to uPVC adaptor Assuming this is 130mm highflow or similar.

Saw an auger on a bobcat at the local tool place yesterday - was something like £55 for the machine plus £35 for the auger for a day which is a no brainier if you have lots to do.

Thanks @Chris Mills Im struggling to understand how you've got the flat roof reinforcing with those steels - are they new ..? £30 a metre isn't unreasonable for steel. The main 203x133 you mentioned - is that for a single skin wall..?

@craig have you got any suppliers or ballpark prices ..?

Its not too bad if you get the brass clean and use a decent flux. These are designed for it https://www.bes.co.uk/angled-wallplate-adaptor-15mm-end-feed-x-1-2-bsp-f-6048

Ahh and they have spoken ! Is the garage near the house..?? you could get away with 35mm to the house and 25mm to the garage if you can live with 80A to the house and 50A to the garage.

One of the qualified ones will be along soon however... You need a minimum cable size to cope with voltage drop over distance. Longer distance = fatter cable. Big house loads (ie upwards of 100A) means you then need bigger cables again...

According to Doncaster Cables calculator you would need 70mm2 which is a bit beefy for 100m and 120A... If its across your own land you may want to see what you can do about getting it moved by the DNO and dig the trenches yourself ..?

I looked at one of these but they aren't ErP rated and getting a control box was a nightmare ! Did see this one though - Trianco are rebadged units so can probably be controlled pretty easily http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Trianco-FG9005-Activair-5kw-Air-source-heat-pump-/172762211301

These are designed to work with A2A heat pumps so if you wire them correctly then they will work for what you want.... The issue is the way the C/Y/R/W wires are configured on the stat, and what goes where. Start with the manual here This guy does a really basic guide to what wires do what - most US systems are 24v for AC and furnace controls so you can make these NV switches if you use the Rc as a common. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4DQiao-WUck

@Nickfromwales this one may help you as its MoE plus the same size Top Hung Conservation Window

Opposite side to @Barney12 from memory ! And welcome !

If they are flat and never to be opened or moved then all you need are some laminated/toughened DG units, black CT1 and some anodized aluminium 50mm angle and you're done. Build up your upstand with either timber or an 18mm ply/PIR/ply sandwich and then do your roof covering. Two beads of CT1 along the top of the upstand and then on goes the unit. Let it set and then make up a mitred frame of the angle, two thin beads of CT1 to hold it on , sealing the edges and the corners to protect the edge of the glass.

If it's got a winder in it then get a set out square or similar and then make sure the opening is perfectly square. If not, use the smaller of the dimensions as you can pack out the space. 5mm on each wall is usually adequate for packing.