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Showing results for tags 'air-tight'.
Found 3 results
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Just getting my plumbing done and noticed ( after it was done) that the 22mm copper vent pipe to my unvented DHW cylinder is a “ hole” in my airtight house. I suppose I could create a trap by using lots of 90’ bends but even if I filled it with water it would eventually dry up as no water passes through it regularly ( I hope?). Any good ideas out there?.
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Sometimes you bump into really interesting stuff online..... like this (scroll down to the section headed Wall-Plate) Here's the relevant passage '...In order to make the house air-tight, the wall plates have been installed over a polythene membrane, which is shown tacked down until the construction has proceeded to the point where it can be folded up and over the plywood which will soon cover the ends of the joists. Ultimately it will seal against the plywood decking which will be laid on top of the joists....' (https://edinkist.wordpress.com/diary-of-the-build/) To ensure air-tightness at the wall-plate roof interface, is this method (putting the wall plate on top of a polythene membrane) common? I feel some phone calls coming on. -
I think I have got my head round the principles of putting the first floor in its place (is that a pun?). I have read the relevant guidance (The POSI Joist Handbook) - and see architects note top left below. I have also read the architects note (bottom -right) which shows me I need to use 200 by 50 treated softwood. Here's our first floor And here's how Durisol recommend I attach the wall plate to the wall So far so good. POSI say I must use a hanger (and the architect says so too) because of air-tightness, and that means I need to..... make sure the fixing for the hanger doesn't penetrate the wall (and so compromise air-tightness) or put air-tightness tape over the masonry hanger fixing. Hanger - to wall-plate: I have a strong feeling I can't get away with 50mm screws for the connection between the hanger and the wall plate can I? What size will those screws need to be? Wall-Plate to wall: Self tapping M10 coach bolts at 400mm centers (architects note above) to attach the wall-plate to the wall? The key thing is that they connect with the concrete isn't it, even if the 400 mm centers guidance happens to fall outside the concrete core (i.e. into the 'wood' of the Durisol block? I think I'll probably need to embed the wall-plate fixing in resin won't I - for air-tightness?
