PeterW

If its only founds then check how much it would be for a low pump unit - not as critical to use a boom pump for placement as its more about getting the concrete to the trenches in this case. Think these guys cover your area

We had a full run put in just for the roofers and the guy who did it seemed to be running on "something" as he was so quick it was frightening..! The funniest bit was where he tried to climb down a tree instead of his own scaff or the ladder.... and missed completely !

Can you get the screws out..?? if so, just take them out and plane the edges

Its 80kg and going nowhere.... Vibration is minimal and tbh they don't really need the feet, I just wanted it clear of the ground.

A concrete slab heating by a delta 15c is not going to crack unless its stressed in a certain direction or has a weak point introduced. This is normally at doorway or other narrow point so if you have a single monolithic slab its unlikely it will do anything other than sit there....

+2 ... glass is a fickle medium. Get a grain of muck in the sealant and press down on it - these are walk on aren’t they ..? - and it could shatter the glass due to the point pressure. I’ve done one window on a kerb and it’s enough for me - lots to go wrong, and lots of cost if it does ...

Not necessary .... dig a trench 12” wide in a vee and then put the soil immediately adjacent in a long pile 12” wise on the road side. Flatten the top and plant straight into it. Fill the trench with 30-50mm limestone no fines to the top and you have your run off and hedge in one go..

Scroll compressors are pretty heavy duty, inverter is how they power them and you can have an inverter scroll compressor ....

.... don’t ... Motors are a compromise - nowhere near fast enough for the chainsaw and not really powerful enough for a decent brush cutter. What bit do you actually need ..??

Vegetable oil - cheaper the better !

Should say 0.5psi..!!

Check your plugs and the manometer aren’t passing air. Short section of pipe that will got into a bucket, plug one end and then put the pressure plug in the other. Put 5psi into the pipe and then put it into the bucket of water, submerging all the joints other than the manometer itself. Start to add more pressure and watch for bubbles ....

Cut the stone front back with an SDS or a chisel - if you have a diamond disk just cut horizontal or vertical slices into then stone and snap the excess out.

All my Fermacell I filled with Alabaster filler and it’s never moved or cracked. Tend to use Easyfill 20 now for most things - you can use it to tape too

Do you need a 12kw ASHP ...?? What’s the heat loss for the building ...?

Titan Recip saw in Screwfix now down to less than £30 - well made and even if you do break it they replace without question https://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb533rsp-750w-reciprocating-saw-240v

Nah...!! Dead easy !! Read this lot from end to end..... http://pavingexpert.com/blocks.htm

Thought it was slabs..? Can't whacker a slab unless you want crazy paving... or by pavers do you mean paving blocks..?

Bit of both on the first one - you need a decent crew on a pump, and I would leave it to someone else to have the nightmares ! The other big plus is that if the pump and concrete are one supply, its up to them to co-ordinate and decide how much is needed etc. If you can get to a pour point near the trenches then use a self compacting and flowing concrete and save the £4-500 for the pump but you may find its not that easy. Direct supply would be VAT rated and 40 cuM is going to be £4k or thereabouts plus the 20% VAT depending on location.

EPS300 is only normally used under point loads, not under a full slab. Have you got a copy of the SE calcs, and how they have come up with this number..?? This may help - shows where EPS300 is used around the ring beam. If you do need all EPS 300 which seems unlikely, try this supplier

More likely that the Lidl stapler is too short to take a standard strip of staples...

Drilling taps into a bath that is designed to be drilled for them is one thing, hacking holes in shower trays is quite another..!!

you have a slope and not a lot of sand under that end slab at 40mm so you will need to watch for pivoting. I'd go a 6:1 sand cement mix whacked down and lay on that so it doesn't move about.

You would invalidate the 25 year warranty ... and a lot of these trays have reinforcing around the waste so they can slim them down towards the outlet.

@bassanclan you need to cut a bigger hole for the waste and the manufacturer supplied waste will fit. It’s in the MIs for the tray - you need a 165mm hole for the waste to go through the floor. A 25mm stone resin tray will more than cope with someone standing on it with no support. This is from the MIs Using their info and the trap they provide you just need another 45 elbow to redirect the flow on the end of the supplied unit.