PeterW

What trap do the shower tray manufacturers recommend ..?? I wouldn’t use a P trap on a shower as they have too many joints that can leak. 40mm will take a lot of water and if it’s not a long run then it’s not an issue - you should be able to drop a 45 onto any decent trap, or cut out for the trap to fit in the ply floor.

ASHP 100mm spacings is for standard build houses where you don’t have a buffer and you are expecting significant fabric losses. You basically pump straight from the ASHP at 40c into the slab and hope it doesn’t overheat .... 150mm is usual for a decent insulation spec - 200mm and you’re probably at low uValues for most elements and don’t need massive amounts of heat input.

Aren’t you parking on this ..?? You may need to go with a stiff sand / cement screed that you lay direct on to as you may find just sand will shift.

Pump all the way ..... Get a price from a pump company to supply both pump and concrete and it becomes zero rated for VAT. That could save you quite a chunk on VAT reclaim. Pump grade is very different stuff though - 10mm aggregate and needs to be perfect consistency. You also need a couple of bags of cement to prime the pump and somewhere to wash out the pump which could have up to 1/2cube left in it depending on the machine.

Timber windows move and I would want something flexible between the brick and the window frame as they will expand and contract differently. You will need a cavity closure detail and also a DPM around the edge and front of the window so I would be looking to bring the blockwork back further and then either splay or box in the window from the inside as per @joe90

Sorry missed the 6 & 7 !! Thought the numbering was odd... Yes - will need a plan and details but can be a sketch diagram showing drains and soakaways and where your driveway SUDs system will be.

That's the only one you normally need to discharge - none of the others are pre-commencement conditions and it looks like materials was pre-approved as part of planning. CIL exemption received..?? If so, issue a notice that you are commencing construction... ?

There is a huge difference between commercial sprayed Icynene and the DIY stuff - per cubic metre its about £400 for Froth-Pak, 25mm PIR is about £270 and is clean and pre-cut to thickness. Cutting thin PIR is simple with a Stanley blade and a T-bar that slides down the side of the insulation - we got it down to about 2 mins to cut a full sheet into the slices.

So by full brick reveal you mean a brick depth (102mm) not a brick length (215mm)..? So in your scenario, you will basically make a window "sandwich" between the brickwork, the timber of the window and the inner blockwork...? If so, you will need a DPM on the front and rear of the timber framing, and preferably some method to thermally break the sandwich to ensure that you don't create a cold spot on the frames. How are you planning on getting the frames into the cavity though if they are mounted behind the brick and in front of the block..??

Will see if I can find a photo but essentially we put a vertical 50x25 batten up the wall and secured with concrete screws. Then took a "slice" of PIR that was 350mm wide and put it up against the first batten and the pushed another batten tight against it and screwed that back to the wall. The friction fit holds it tight and then the boards are screwed over the top. You can also tape the foam to batten joint too for added air tightness. I don't think spraying foam everywhere has any benefit and its eyewatering in price compared to PIR. It also adds another job, and creates a lot of unusable waste.

Get a couple of big industrial dehumidifiers in and it will dry pretty quickly - we had to stop using them in the winter as they were sucking moisture from the plaster too fast !

Just finished option 3 but with ... 150mm Cavity Graphite blown bead 25mm PIR between battens Quick and easy to do and the PIR is a much better option than spray foam as you can cut it and batten to it to trap the insulation. Have you got the window detail drawn as there sounds like a cold bridge there and a DPM will be a necessity.

Corgi was an abbreviation - Council of Registered Gas Installers. When it became a commercial body through the HSE re-tender process the new provider was required to provide the name their scheme would take as part of the tender response ...

Its the Hitachi Koki business that is rebranding - not the main Hitachi group.

Yep - none of the push fits grip chrome properly.

Nice legal grey area.... a highway definition is normally extended to the definition “highway maintained at public expense” although there is some case law that identifies a highway being where the public have unfettered right of access ... this is where you get into the realms of private property and trespass however unless the skip is going to cause an obstruction I would not worry too much.

Makita is Thursday at FFx

It’s not required as the space under a house rarely drops to below 2-3c anyway. If the duct is continuous to the plant room then it will also insulate it.

If they have used that mastic it never sets so peel back the membrane - plastic scraper may help and some warmth - and chisel off the high points and then stick it back on. Stick some DPM onto the mastic as a temporary measure to stop it getting filled with crud.

As @Onoff says - cut a cross from an ice cream container or similar and drill a hole in the middle to hold the camera. May need another a bit further back to stop it pivoting and a short length of conduit or pipe to keep it all in line.

Insulation will be min 120mm PIR to get to BRegs with a 65-100mm screed dependant on finish. UFH too ..?? If so, count that as 225mm from beam top, so that’s 3 courses of bricks - or one block - high. Assuming these are standard beams then you’ve probably got 140mm depth there, so that is 365mm from the trench block. So you could say your outer DPC is at 4 bricks up, leaving you to have 2 above and 2 below finished ground level. Does that help..??

So that stuff needs to be squashed between the membrane and the wall by a bar on the outside of the membrane - which isn’t present in your case ..! Have you paid them in full as I don’t think the job is complete from what I can see.

Patches are ok but really should be 270 degrees. And does that go up the face of the house ..? If so it should have the trim too but that corner could be fun .....

Plenty about but only tend to have a hinged cupboard door on them Integrated Condenser Dryer

Thanks for that ..! Aircrete is just that - air..! Very low heat capacity, whereas the dense blocks have more concrete and as @joe90 notes, they reduce the swing between temperatures. I’ve used them with plasterboard tight bonded using foam to them and have experienced the same long lag in temperature change. Those heavy 6” blocks have probably 6-8 times the concrete content than an aircrete block so have a similar multiple of heat capacity