PeterW

We had a can of foam go pop in a carrier bag .... which also had a box of screwdriver bits in it ..!! Waited until it set and then broke it up and started to shake each bit to find the on that rattled...

Ahhh yes... one shower running or two..?? Not wanting these super dooper body jets and 20 litres a minute are you..??

If it’s set foam then sadly it’s there til you scratch or break it off .... some thinks will will need binning, other stuff can be used as urban camouflage to make you blend in at the merchants...

When you’ve laid the first block. Most TF (not all) need a wider inner skin so sit on a 140mm block with a 50mm cavity and a 100mm outer skin. This means the sole plate isn’t hanging into the cavity. Others build up off the ground floor so your GF construction has to be wider all round to leave a smaller cavity - again, it’s down to choice of supplier. There are a vast number of TF suppliers and an equal number of good and bad stories on here so don’t just take one and think it’s the norm.

It pains me to say it but @Nickfromwales is right - that’s the PHE pump (I should know, I wired them all..!!) and the HRC is lower down ....

I may have an unlock code you can try .... ?

Pump goes onto the return leg with a non return valve in front of it to stop it back flowing to the taps. If you calculate the volume of the loop you can work out how long the pump needs to run for - surprised if it’s more than 20-30 seconds. Your other - neater - option is to use a flow switch in the cold main that senses flow. That could be a toilet being flushed or even a tap being turned on and then the pump runs for 20-30 seconds which is more than enough to clear any cool water. Benefit of this is you don’t need any wiring or sensors to trigger the pump and at worst it runs every time someone opens a cold tap which means the house is occupied ...

Welcome ! I can't see how the single header is going to take the weight of the staircase as the 8x3 it's attached to would need strengthening and you say this is exposed..?? Quickest and simplest way is to build a short load bearing wall perpendicular to the one at the side of the stairs and hang the stairs from this to give you the support you need. If you want it to stay open plan then a structural UC below the junction of the header and the joist may work but I would expect the header needs to be much thicker. It would potentially need to be fire rated too so factor in cladding it.

Cracking News..!! Now we don’t get many conversions so..... how about lots of photos or a blog..??

Routing 35mm hinge holes. There are plenty of Youtube resources for using worktop jigs and most are pretty similar.

If you look at the pics it shows you the cuts - you need to do an inset 45 degree cut on bullnose worktop otherwise you end up with an open join on a 90 degree corner.

Homebase do a solid acacia wood worktops at 28mm for £30 a 2.2m length. Good quality for the price. If you need a jig and are handy with a router then Rutlands do a Worktop Jig for £16.95

Ha ha ha !!! Big Dave and Little Willy....??!!

Yep those are the ones although as they were in the paper catalog they were less than the prices on the web...

Unless you buy your own Kwikstage scaffold, you will end up with a lot of additional cost with this approach. Two skins of block and then the slip system means you will need to either keep the scaffold up over winter (expensive if not owned) or drop it and then have it rebuilt. Last time I checked, handmade slips were coming in at £1.15-£1.60 each, so basically more expensive than bricks. If you want to go slips and DIY then seriously consider swapping to ICF as that is DIY build and gets you up to roof a lot quicker but does have its drawbacks.

You normally gauge the wall openings to the bricks and let the blocks follow as they are easier to cut. 10,000 bricks and 200sqm of block you are talking 5-6 weeks to wall plate assuming nothing really fancy or complex.

Primer G in water on concrete is fine - that’s what we/@Nickfromwales used on mine.

Nope - I spoke to both Mitsubishi and Panasonic and both step from 1 to 3 phase over 14kw. Whilst at a decent CoP (A7/W35) you will be pulling only 3.5kw on the 14kw Ecodan, outside of this the CoP falls away and there is a point at which parity is reached. Add to this that the 12kw Panasonic has a 6kw in built immersion and the max draw on most of the bigger units is towards 30A. Most commercial units on 3 phase have much lower draw - Panasonic used to make a 3 phase unit that is 12kw but it’s purely for commercial use where 3P is available. A 35-40Kw ASHP would be a 3 phase unit or preferably a pair of smaller units to allow for redundancy.

Where are you ..?

Seriously that is all irrelevant ..!!! The legislation that brought in CIL requires it to be notified on the planning permission - and like every law it cannot be back dated anyway ..

I’ve just put a 9kw one in where the heat load is 3.2kw at -5c and that’s just so it doesn’t get stressed (and it was cheap..!) The kw/m2 call you have found is for oil boiler replacements in houses built to 2003 regs and is still barking mad ... If I was going ASHP (and Aga...) then I would go with a 12kw unit as it’s the max you can go on single phase and up size the buffer and the UVC / Sunamp for hot water and run it overnight on E7 and then use PV during the day.

I thought he used square edged boards ...?? Do you fill SE boards too ..?

Buy it online and buy decent stuff (Brett Martin, Osma) and not the S***fix cheap crap. Find your nearest MKM - the branch managers / directors look after self build personally and they are great to deal with. Go in to a TP or Jewsons and try it on and the bull$h!t detector behind the desk will go off and they will shaft you .. they have SB accounts but you need to go in open and honest first.

Yes - your PP approval ! It has to be stated on the planning permission as it’s a condition of planning approval. I know of one council that failed on a single application to add it retrospectively to a permission they sent out 2 days after the start of their CIL process - they lost ....

Yes they mean a day or two not a week or two. Unless its very sandy and the edges are unstable I would leave a couple of days to get things finalised and not be in a rush. You have no idea (unless you’ve done test trenches..?) what you will find and that means you need to plan for the unknown. Is the farmer carting away for you ..? If so, is the JCB loading for him and when ..??