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PeterW

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Everything posted by PeterW

  1. PeterW
    It’s just the block heating up and then returning to room temperature. The same would happen if it was plasterboard, but as it’s only usually 15mm thick you don’t have the heat capacity that you do with a 100mm block. Just one observation on the plans - the right hand corridor headroom is very low. Can you move the chimney/stove over to the left ..??
  2. PeterW
    Hmmm ... not sure they do as the glass goes all the way back behind the hinges according to this pic
  3. PeterW
    Ask @Nickfromwales about the power of moderators vs the power of admins.....
  4. PeterW
    My local council - and the planner I deal with - had 42 cases on her caseload before Christmas and asked me if I had any jobs going .... Oddly, this is one area that private sector takeover could potentially help with as it would regularise and standardise across the piece.
  5. PeterW
    Me because this is a family friendly forum ....
  6. PeterW
    Because it adds no value. Its not a VCL as you’re adding a second one anyway. Its benefit for being a reflective insulation (ie IR reflector) for heat is virtually zero as there is no air gap to the emitter so no reflection. So it’s not adding anything ..... just time and expense .!
  7. PeterW
    Nope not required... one less job to do ...
  8. PeterW
    So the hinges you link are reasonably top end hinges that can take up to 45kg each but they do say that over 1m is the issue. Dropping to 1800 means you have circa 32kg which is well within the spec and should give no issues however those only allow a one way swing as the glass is designed to have a seal strip against the wall and it close onto the hinges. To get a swing on both sides you need something like these - same manufacturer but they need a cut out which your glass supplier should be able to do. And they are in the sale.... ? Edited to add I would always go 8mm... 6mm feels flimsy ..!
  9. PeterW
    I’m sure @JSHarris will be along shortly but just to be clear there is no such thing as “thermal mass”.... it’s a combination of the heat capacity of materials and their propensity to absorb and release heat ... oddly from memory, blocks are quite poor and plasterboard is quite good but there is a whole table of data that was put on here a while ago. What you’re looking for is a way to reduce the temperature swings - @TerryE has done it by creating a huge mass of concrete in his floor that acts as a buffer.
  10. PeterW
    I think you’re talking the same thing I am - but bifolds tend to use a continuous hinge arrangement not single point hinges like @ProDave is talking about. 8mm glass is heavy and an 800mm screen will but 32kg of pull out and down on the fixing which is essentially a hole through the glass and a couple of No.8 screws.
  11. PeterW
    Yep it’s something like a 25mm or 40mm return depending on which you choose - both are 100mm deep. For stone I would go with the 40mm on and CT1 the slot and a bead along the bottom edge too
  12. PeterW
    This stuff with a bead of sealant in the slot too. You can also bond it onto the EPDM with something like Sikaflex
  13. PeterW
    Screw a length of 4x2 to the wall. 9” grinder with a stone disc in it and run the guard along the timber ... not exactly rocket science ....
  14. PeterW
    Without the correct trim it will leak as the stone will get wet and it will creep down. Cut the slot and do it right !!
  15. PeterW
    Planning permission is 90% about what it looks like and 10% layout internally to see if anyone will be overlooked (so to allow/disallow windows etc) and they don’t care if you make it from mud and sticks or Lego bricks .... BRegs need section and construction details.
  16. PeterW
    32mm reduced to a 22 then 15 I would expect with a gauge on it. If you use a 22mm reduced tee you can put the gauge on the 15mm section and put a stop tap on the 22mm end and get both static and dynamic pressure. Most water company domestic meters are 15mm and if you want anything bigger they charge a fair bit more.
  17. PeterW
    something for the glass to rest on at the unsupported end otherwise the top screws will just pull out of the wall. Most of the screens with the return panel or flipper panel have a post at the end for the moving panel to attach to.
  18. PeterW
    @Nickfromwales had the joy of helping me lift a 2000x1200 8mm glass screen up a double wonder staircase and it was a joy... NOT ! Plan carefully as big screens need big spaces to get them through and they are heavy so you may also want an end stop for them to rest on otherwise you will be putting 40-50kg of glass onto two or three screws at best.
  19. PeterW
    Don’t forget you have built in ducts all the way to the rooms .... easy to thread a length of Cat5 with a DHT or similar on the end of it from the terminal all the way back to the manifold and just terminate there in a Sonoff or a PIC based switch and you can decide the humidity setting you want to trigger at.
  20. PeterW
    I’ve had eOn remove my mums number from their system as I took the call from them and this snotty cow tried to tell me she “had to have one as it was the law...” I asked her which statutory instrument contained the enforcement and she couldn’t answer ... asked to speak to her line manager who said that “they could force meter changes on customers....” and I asked under what terms of their contract as the only place I could find it was if the meter was in arrears .... no answer ... Its highly unlikely we will ever get to proper demand led pricing anyway, so smart meters are just a toy for the energy suppliers to know how much more they can squeeze from you ...
  21. PeterW
    Came across this as a concept and it’s quite innovative. https://www.madihome.com/
  22. PeterW
    I think you also need to buy smart. For example I’ve just sourced 12m of 28mm solid wood worktops at £15/m and the quality is pretty good. They will get a light sanding at 120 grit and then finished with 2 coats of Osmo oil - probably adding £40 to the cost. That makes it less than £20/m for a product that I could have easily paid £40-50/m for which was all by smart buying. You need to focus on cost but also bear in mind that time has a cost too. I could buy green oak at £28/cuft but by the time I’d converted that into worktop it would be 3 times the price.
  23. PeterW
    A lot of taps have the ability to change the flow restrictors. I’ve fitted some of these recently - come complete with the flexis and have a pair of brass studs rather than the one on a normal mixer tap. They have replaceable restrictors on the tap nozzle itself - the ones I’ve fitted are 7lpm.
  24. PeterW
    Shower will be limited by the head - have you tried just the hose ..??
  25. PeterW
    Are you getting an actual measured 14 lpm..?? Look at the graph and the 3/4 has a reasonably shallow curve but would still have a perceived increase in pressure drop from the valve. As they are spring driven, the preload on the spring will vary the actual response so your “dynamic” pressure is the operating pressure at the coil. These tanks have 6bar fail at the control group, 7 bar at the combined overheat pressure relief, and will comfortably take 10 bar without too much trouble as long as it’s not permanent.
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