PeterW

No and no .... not unless you want to buy a new cordless drill ..!! You need a 9” Makita concrete grinder, preferably a 110v one .............. even better if it’s fitted with a “Dave” attachment eh @Nickfromwales..?? I have a grinder you can borrow but sadly Nick broke my “Dave” grinding 20sqm of concrete so you’ll have to provide your own..!

Take one off and turn it over .. maker will be stamped on the back

Don’t extend it. Just get a piece of 18mm ply or similar about the size of the box, unscrew the box from the wall, board on into the hole then screws back in. It will give you enough forward projection of the socket, may need longer face plate screws but it’s quick and easy and no wiring required.

Have you not tanked the ceiling..?? Should really do the ceiling - and the back of the door ....

Old metal dustbin lid works just as well....

Normally the roofer fits the Velux windows. Cheapest online is usually Sterling Build but my merchant matched their prices overall

It just tells you the preservative is the same - not the contents of the container !! Mixing parts of a system and changing components without understanding the underlying chemistry is a really bad idea...

Whats the benefit of this @Nickfromwales as the Ivar is more expensive and the only difference seems to be for a capillary thermostat which is useful on the low temp flows. I think the auto balancing heads are the way forward on a lot of this tbh...

At 7 bar you will see even the smallest temperature fluctuations ..! Ever considered your cheapo gauge is letting by.....??

I have no idea who your joiner or TF company is but they have OCD... Never seen such a clean and tidy build, and plans stuck everywhere !!

And the £5k total is just for the work tops ..?!

Christ on a bus..!! Was the silicone done by a blind man ..?? The cabinet damage (that’s not reasonable fitting tolerance ) is a joke - did they supply the kitchen too..??

Lets assume a few things 5x6m footprint 2.7m height above ground standard footings at 600mm flat roof For a 3 sided box in brick only, that’s 48sqm of brickwork, 16m footings, 30sqm floor at 150mm with no insulation or reinforcing. 30sqm flat deck, laid to single fall, 200x50 joists at 400mm centres 18mm OSB2 deck with 2 ply felt hot torched. Standard white steel garage doors and a standard personnel door, strip lights and 4 sockets all run from existing power. You should be able to get that outside of the M25 for £10k plus VAT which makes it around £350/sqm

The IVT heat pumps on eBay do not have a programmer of any description, they are one part of a two part hot water system that are being sold off by Ice Energy and others online. They are pretty binary in terms of control - the temperature sensor switches off the pump when it gets to that temperature.

@Hecateh if the screed isn’t down yet, can you take more photos of areas such as the island and the kitchen ..? Always useful for reference.

@DeeJunFan have you got a buffer planned for the UFH..? Ideally if you had this you can give the UFH a decent load battery of 40c water to pull against when the tank is topping up.

Build over a Severn Trent lateral requires a build over agreement being signed and paid for by the applicant. If he hasn’t made this application then he’s breaching the regulations and they could make him dig it up.

I mean 5mm once the screed is poured. They may need to watch the height of the short stack in the loo - it wasn’t much more than 65mm tall from memory. Do not let them cover it in screed ..!!

As long as there is 5mm below the threshold at the patio doors then it’s fine.

Neither mortar or concrete will level itself - if you get them that liquid then the strength is gone !

Pressure will rise during a pour as the concrete curing heats the water and the pressure rises. You pressurise to ensure that the pipe hasn't been damaged during the pour although in a small number of cases - usually using liquid screeds - there is no need. You can link all the tails together using standard Tees or elbows to make a full loop - what pipe are you using..?? You may need 16x15mm adapters but you can re-use these later in the build to use up the spare UFH pipe as supply pipes.

Steps and things I would be using a mortar mix - you don’t need the strength of concrete in any of this you are doing tbh

That is a pretty good price tbh as I’m assuming that the architects certificate acts as warranty ..?? If you take off the standard £2500 for a warranty then you’re at £3500 which is pretty reasonable for what you have got.

Not unless you’re going to tank all of it...

That’s the same as mine. WPlan is ok but hot water always gets priority. You need to switch over the two thermostats either side of the diverter valve so get one with a micro switch.